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1971 johnson 60hp high speed miss

A

abcjoyride

Contributing Member
Hi. I am brand new to these forums. I have the above engine and it has a miss at high rpm and speed. Took it out on the water and initially i can apply full throttle with no miss and it responds fine. Once it reaches certain speed under full throttle it starts to miss quite badly. If you back off the throttle a bit it runs fine at 24-25kts. I have fixed fuel pump and replaced defective fuel line. It starts and idles fine. Can anyone help with pointing me in the correct direction with how to fix? Greatly appreciated if you could. Thanks.
 
Remove the flywheel.----Now remove the distributor cap and rotor.--------Clean and set the points at 0.010".------Inspect the anti-reversing spring.-----Clean the rotor and distributor cap.-----Possibly replace the wee rubber boots on the plug wires.------------Note that wires screw into the cap.--Reassemble carefully note the key for the rotor.-------Torque flywheel.----------------Also note that there is not much money involved in this exercise.
 
It does sound like the points may be set slightly incorrectly as "racerone" suspects. The setting is critical as follows.

(Point Setting Of Battery Capacitance Discharge)
( Ignition Models - 1968 thru 1972)
(Some have points - Some do not)
(Joe Reeves)


The points must be set to .010 but no wider than .010..... BUT in some instances due to a possible slight inaccurately machined crankshaft lobe or a slight offset of one set of points, a setting slightly less than .010 would be required as follows.


Whether the crankshaft has two or three lobes, when setting the points, check the setting of the points on each individual lobe by rotating the crankshaft by hand.


You may find that setting one set of points to .010 on one lobe, then turning the crankshaft to the next lobe, the gap measures .011 or .012 (too wide). This is where you would need to close that gap down to the required .010. A gap too wide can result in a ignition miss when throttle is applied.


Bottom line, pertaining to the point setting at the various lobe locations____ .010, .010, .009, is okay____ .010, .010, .011 is not!

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
Thanks for ans folks its a 60EL71C. @Racerone, do i need a flywheel remover or can it be removed at home by other means? I am new to outboards and although semi mechanically minded still a bit hesitant. @Kimcrwbr1 if the regulator is charging the battery can it still be not functioning properly and cause that miss at higher rpm? Thanks in advance.
 
You will need a flywheel puller that uses the 3 threaded holes.----They are 5/16-NF threads.---------The inspection / cleaning needs to be done on a regular basis so you might as well get a puller and do this job yourself.
 
Not able to take off flywheel yet. spoke to an outboard mechanic who seemed to think it could be one of the three coils? You will have to excuse me here. By coil is he talking about the spark plug leads?
 
Also have another problem. Wont go back to neutral or into rev! In fact when i put it into rev it went forward. I read somewhere about the fluid in the leg playing a part. Took vent screw out of bottom leg to check fluid level using a cotton bud that i stuck in and the bud stayed dry. Does this mean its empty or can you not normally check the fluid level?
Thanks again for the help folks. First time boat for me and the engine seems to be giving me a hard time
 
The dry cotton could just be not enough oil.
Remove the bottom drain.
If you didn't have oil the lower would likely be toast.

High speed miss. Do a compression test.
Any fuel coming from the carbs as it runs? If so the reeds might be bad.
Undo all connections and clean and reconnect.

Some flywheels(Force) use 1/4-20 some the 5/16. Some don't have any.

Update the profile, you might be close to someone who will help.
 
on the puller and smack the end of the ram with a hammer
Click to expand...
Never hit the end of a puller as you can snap the crankshaft main bearing alignment pins in block, use a impact wrench(air/electric) or a flywheel holder and breaker bar.
 
A 1971 motor like yours only has 1 ignition coil.-----So why is a mechanic telling you there are 3 on your motor ?----Drain the lower unit oil and see how much is in there.----------If there is not enuff oil it will not shift.----------------Motor will also not shift if it is not running !
 
Thanks racerone. Just talking to a guy about the gear lube. He reckons i can use car ATF in it and it wont wreck the electric shift etc. Is this right? Not about to use car product on an outboard. Very different animals
 
racerone said:
Remove the flywheel.----Now remove the distributor cap and rotor.--------Clean and set the points at 0.010".------Inspect the anti-reversing spring.-----Clean the rotor and distributor cap.-----Possibly replace the wee rubber boots on the plug wires.------------Note that wires screw into the cap.--Reassemble carefully note the key for the rotor.-------Torque flywheel.----------------Also note that there is not much money involved in this exercise.
Click to expand...

Whats the torque setting for fly wheel nut? Thanks
 
racerone said:
A 1971 motor like yours only has 1 ignition coil.-----So why is a mechanic telling you there are 3 on your motor ?----Drain the lower unit oil and see how much is in there.----------If there is not enuff oil it will not shift.----------------Motor will also not shift if it is not running !
Click to expand...

Dont know why the guy told me three. There is only one and it has cracks in the green housing. Could this be a possible source if miss at rpm as well? Thanks
 
racerone said:
Try 1-5/16"----Or close to 33 mm---The threaded holes for the puller are 5/16" -NF
Click to expand...

Got nut off! 3/4 was perfect fit. Trying to get flywheel off and searched other threads. Got a flywheel puller but the bolts didnt fit properly and wouldnt go in far enough and being a bit silly i tried to force issue and stripped thread from what went in. There is however a good 3/4 thread left. Will go get some 5/16 nf bolts today and try again. Any extra tips on removal? If i spray some sort of lube whats the best position to spray? Thanks again. I know i am a total newby.
 
thanks for the help so far everyone. Greatly appreciated Got the high tensile 5/16 unf thread bolts for flywheel puller. Worked a treat! Also got type c leg oil and pump.
With regards to cleaning points, cap etc.....just a rag or can i use a cleaner? Was goining to get fine sandpaper onto the diz cap metal components. Will This be okay? Thanks again
 
You can use either lacquer thinner or acetone to clean the points.

NOT: Be sure to set the points on that model "exactly" as I stated in a earlier reply above!
 
joereeves said:
You can use either lacquer thinner or acetone to clean the points.

NOT: Be sure to set the points on that model "exactly" as I stated in a earlier reply above!
Click to expand...

Thanks...but first after getting in there and cleaning it up i cant for the life of me figure out how the points plate goes back on over the ring reverse cut off C shape spring thing! Just cant see how it goes back on! Can anyone help with this? Thanks!
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
The reverse spring needs to be installed after you mount the base plate. Did you clean and grease the ring that the base plate slides in? My book recommends replacing the reverse spring and clean and lightly grease where the spring slides in the crank groove. It grounds the points if the crank is turning in a counterclockwise rotation.
Click to expand...

To install the reverse spring....you have a picture? How does it go in? Just cant see it. Will have another go at it and come back to you. Thanks
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OMC-JOH..._Accessories_Gear&hash=item43d72f2b05&vxp=mtr
This is the contact for the spring. The loop part of the spring goes on the right side of the tang that hangs down. When the crank is turning clockwise it pushes the spring away from the contact and if the crank turns reverse the spring touches the contact shorting out the points to engine ground through the crank.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Ill have another look in the morning. Hopefully i can figure it out.
 
In addition to Kim's usual on target advice..... After installing the plate first (just leave the spring on the bench and forget about it for a few seconds), then after securing the plate... look closely at the "anti reverse" spring.

Notice that in one position, the spring will set FLAT but if turned over, it will not. It's simply a case of having the spring positioned so that it will sit FLAT, then slide it down the crankshaft taper so that it simply sits alongside of the metal grounding contact of the plate... nothing complicated requiring rocket science mentality.

HOWEVER... One very important aspect of the "anti reverse spring" pertains to lubrication which is essential, and the lubrication can be only one type of grease (Type D) which is a high pressure grease used on such type bearings as generator, magneto, or wheel bearings... actually any bearing that experiences very high revolutions. DO NOT attempt to use any other type grease as it will not last!

After the spring is in place, use a small stick, sturdy toothpick, a tool of your choosing to grease the spring's contact area on the crankshaft thoroughly.

The container of the grease must specify that it is a "Extreme High Pressure" grease, no doubt available at any automotive parts shop, and also at your local dealership..... part number 508303.

If you skip this step, the friction will wear out the metal of the spring, rendering it useless and a ridge will wear into the crankshaft. A damaged or non existent anti reverse spring will result in a scenario whereas when starting the engine, the engine could easily hiccup, spit back, whatever (which any engine normally experiences at times) but this engine would start running in the reverse rotating mode. The anti reverse spring, hence it's name, prevents this condition.
 
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