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Need Evinrude 6 HP Help

4

4fishin&huntin

Contributing Member
Picked up a 6 HP Evinrude Fisherman for cheap knowing that the pistons are frozen stuck. From the serial number (6 202DJ 01120) I believe this means it's a 1972. Anyway, I have removed the cylinder head, only snapped one bolt, and now I'm trying to remove the powerhead. I have removed, or snapped off, all mounting bolts that I can see but she doesn't even want to budge. I intend on completely rebuilding and refurbishing this outboard so I can confidently use it for fishing and duck hunting.

So any ideas on how to free up the pistons and remove the powerhead would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
 
Before you dive in too deep you might want to look up the price and availability of parts.------Also open up the lower unit to inspect the bushing above the pinion gear.-------Inspect the bearing surface on the driveshaft too.------------That bearing surface is not big enuff.-----------It used to be 0.550" diameter and on yours it is around 0.428 "------Lots of these were made so used parts are plentiful and from many scources.
 
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There are 7 bolts holding the powerhead on. How many have you removed (or broken)? The stubs of the broken bolts may be holding it on also.
 
4fishin&huntin said:
Yeah, I was replying to what racerone said about inspecting the bushing above the pinion gear.
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Hey fdrgator, I have all 7 bolts either removed or broken. How does the drive shaft attach? Is it a spline connection or what? Does the powerhead lift off from the top or is there something else at play here?
Thank you
 
If the correct 7 bolts are removed then the powerhead will lift off.-------The driveshaft is splined.-------Glue on the gasket may be holding it or corrosion around some of the broken screws.
 
racerone said:
If the correct 7 bolts are removed then the powerhead will lift off.-------The driveshaft is splined.-------Glue on the gasket may be holding it or corrosion around some of the broken screws.
Click to expand...

I think I have the correct 7. It looks like they all went into the bottom of the block.
What's the best way to get that corrosion crud from the water jacket? When I pulled the head off there was some in the water channels, not plugged or anything but I want to get it cleaned out completely.
Also, what is the best way the get the pistons unstuck. I have been soaking them with penetrating oil and they still don't budge. I have also lightly tapped them with a piece of wood and rubber mallet but don't ant to risk cracking one. Any ideas?
 
Step # 1 is to get the motor apart !!----------Then take the crankshaft out.--------Then work on the individual pistons.-------Freezing the block may shrink the piston to get it moving.---------Evaluate all parts before spending any money.---------I just did 5 of these motors this winter 2 of them are 73 and the others 1969 models .-------They are a sweet running motor when refurbished properly.
 
So, I have finally removed the power head from the exhaust housing, removed everything off the block (i.e. carburetor, starter, etc.). I have removed all the screws that hold the two halves of the block together, I can't seem to get the halves to move apart. Is there a gasket on between these halves or is it permatex? I can't even get a single edge razor blade in the seam. Any tricks of the trade to getting the block apart?

Thanks for all your help so far, it is appreciated.
 
Brute force is not needed here.------Is the reed valve plate off ??---There are hidden screws there.-----And have you removed alignment dowel pin/s
 
I understand, remove the pins. Got one side removed, but there is no clearance on the other side to hit the pin free with a punch. Will the removal of these pins separate the motor?
 
I have clearly indicated ( 3 times ) that these dowels must be removed.-----Did this on 5 of these blocks over the winter with no magic tricks to take these dowels out !!!
 
OK, don't get testy. You've done many of these motors and this is my first one ever. I DO understand to remove the pins. The one on the opposite side from the fuel pump has no clearance to tap it out. How do you drive this out??? I do appreciate your patience.
 
You do intend to remove the exhaust cover plate to inspect the baffle and gaskets...don't you? That could be why the pistons are frozen. Anyhow, with the cover off, it will help with the angularity problem. I've always been able to knock the pin out, even though it has to be whacked at an angle. A brass punch will help prevent buggering up the end of the pin. I believe there was once a special offset punch for that job, but I've never owned one.
 
OK, I'll do that. I have already tried to get that plate off but the little screws are in there pretty tight. I was hoping I could let that be but, it is what it is. So, the statement you made about this being the cause of the frozen pistons, what exactly would I be looking for once the outer and inner covers are removed?
 
Leaking gaskets caused by some prior overheating, or pin holes in the baffle plate. Any water squirting around in there can get into the powerhead via the exhaust ports, causing rust damage. Believe me, Ive been caught by more than one "gotcha" because I failed to look. Sometimes it takes us all awhile to learn to do it right and do it once..
 
Well, I can only get 2 of the 10 screws to budge. I wished they would have used a bolt with a hex head instead of a slotted screw! I have tried smacking them and also used some heat with a propane torch...nothing. On the good side, I was able to get the other dowel pin out and the block came apart. Removed the bottom of the connecting rod bearings and the little roller pins were rusty. Would this indicate a problem with the water getting in via the exhaust plates/gaskets?
 
Water absolutely got in there somehow. I can't tell what that somehow is. Only an on-site inspection can do that. Here are some common ones
1. Leaking head gasket
2 Exhaust cover (Ahem...)
3. Leaking or missing carbon seal at bottom of crankshaft/top of driveshaft
4. Turning motor upside down (or tilting lower unit above powerhead level when removing from boat
5. Submersion
 
Absolutely, 1000's of them. That's what I did for a living for 24 years. After the first couple hundred, you get better at it. But they still are a challenge. Good luck as you learn.
 
So, I got the exhaust plate off. the inner plate has a lot of carbon on one side but I would imagine that is to be expected. No signs of any holes though, so I guess that's good.Currently I am soaking the block to try to free up the pistons. While I'm waiting on that, I took apart the water pump. Figured I might as well replace the impeller along with everything else I'm doing. I'm also thinking it might be smart to replace the oil retainer (part #0314167). However, the housing retainer assembly doesn't want to come off. Should I bother with the oil retainer seal or leave well enough alone. If I should replace it, how is this done. Many thanks for everyones help so far.
 
Post # 27 suggests that the crank is out of the motor.------Searching for a good donor motor would seem to be a best option and bearings are NLA.
 
There was no water in the gearbox which is apart right now so I can't perform the bubble test. The motor is completely torn down now too. Except the pistons are still stuck in the cylinders which are now soaking in oil. The crank only had a little surface rust which looks like it should polish out with crokis cloth. I was able to find the bearings online, $60 for a set of 2. So what method do you use to pop out the driveshaft seal?
 
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