Cold start issues with 115 HP

Ummmmm, does anybody want to post the procedure to adjust the spark advance with timing light and also to synchronize carbs to advance,,,? I had downloaded the online manual but then noticed the one I ordered was for the 4 cylinder models with distributors,,,,,(red faced and out $30)

OK,,,I just placed an order for a "Fuel Pump Kit" thru this site that includes the 4 gaskets, Diaphragm, O rings, screen, and 2 check valves. looks like all I will need( hope). Still hoping for that procedure to synchronize carbs to timing, tho,,,,,

OK,, latest update on my 115. I had ordered a fuel pump kit from MarineEngine.com and got it installed. I also removed the btm carb as it had started to flood after I took all three apart for a good cleaning. I found a small piece of black rubber holding the needle in the open position. Got er all lashed up and ,,,and ,,,she started right up just like it used to,,,!!!! YEAH1!!!!!!! did a little fine tuning on the carbs and engine now runs really smooth although it still wants to high idle bout 30-45 seconds after coming to idle position from forward. Me thinks I may not have the throttle cable adjusted like it should be,,,? When you go from forward position to idle position, the engine will high idle until you manually push the throttle lever towards the "idle " position. IF I tighten the throttle cable a little bit,,,,that should address the "slack",,,,huh???? I would STILL like to verify the synchronizing procedure of the timing,,,so I KNOW it is right,,,,. How about it ,,,somebody,,,????

Adjust that cable and you're golden!

Good work.

Jeff

I would STILL like to verify the synchronizing procedure of the timing,,,so I KNOW it is right,,,,. ANY BODY,,,????

WHAT IS GOING ON,here,,,??? I went out to start the 115 this morning, and it is back to it's old tricks,,,the starter would spin out right before it would try to start,!!! Did that several times. I synchronized the three carbs as the top one was opening before the middle and btm ones. Tried her again and no go. Pulled all plugs and they looked like new. Then I started to check each individual spark plug wire,,,AND #'s 2, 3, 4, and 5 have no spark at all,,!!! #'s 1 and 6 are jumping the spark at least 3/8". Trying to figure how to test coils to see if plug wires are bad or coils bad ,,,,??? Any kind words of wisdom,,,,??? I an at a loss,

It's been a long day for me,,,but couldn't stand not knowing bout those dang coils!! Poking around at the coils lookin for loose wires and found some wires that have the insulation fluffing off an the stranded wire looks like some corrosion going on,,,WTH,,,? Took some pics and hope you guys can tell what is going on. followed the wires to what looks like the stator under the flywheel,,,? Removed he flywheel ( I;m getting good at doing this) and the wire loom goes to underside of the stator. The two wires in question are both yellow and have peeled all the way to where all the wires go into btm of stator,,,?? NOW is when I really need some kind words of wisdom,,,, I'm thinkin this is going to cost me an arm and maybe a leg,,,,,?

BOTH legs! Take a deep breath before you see what that sucker costs.

Jeff

" What" are the two yellow wires for? They both go to the small "block" in the first pic,,? as I stated in previous post,, the stranded wires BOTH show some greenish corrosion as if the copper wires have been peeled and exposed to elements for some time. Could these two wires, just recently grounded to each other or to ground and caused my recent ongoing issues???

Hey Kimcrwbr1,,Yeah, it makes sense the two yellow wires being the charging circuit as on closer inspection, it looks like the insulation has been hot enough to make it brittle and just fall apart when you move it. Funny, I don't remember ever having charging issues when we were using the Pontoon regularly,,?? AND, I know I NEVER hooked the battery up wrong, but at this stage, no telling why the wires got hot. So, the small box the 2 yellow wires go to is the rectifier,,? I wonder if there is a procedure to test the stator and the rectifier,,??

For the rectifier http://myoutboardengine.com/rectifier.html

Hey Haventaclue,, thanks for that link, I got it downloaded and copied. I have been very busy with this *&^%&%&X all day,!!!. I did finally find some info on the values required for testing the stator, the trigger and the coils. I have pretty much proved the stator is ok on the 6 wires for the switch boxes, coils ignition system. I have yet to find test procedure for the two yellow charging system wires, tho. What I have done is determine that there is continuity between the two yellow wires, but none to ground,,,??? The test procedure for the trigger tells me it is BAD. The resistance values are way too high,!! supposed to be 11-14 and I'm getting in the 1200-1300 range on two different meters,!! I also checked the 6 coils and they check out OK,,, whew,,! anybody got a spare trigger in their back pocket,,,,??

There should be no continuity to ground,they are the stator/alternator to rectifier where the rectifier converts AC to DC.If you have continuity between the two yellows,I would remove all the old insulation,wire brush the bare wire to remove as much of that green muck,slide a couple of layers of heat shrink over it.If the wires are too corroded,and this is what I did myself,nip the wire with enough left to solder fresh wire on and cover joint with heat shrink.
On the trigger resistance,check the setting on your meter,is it at 1k? Those numbers,if you go up a click on the meter,are within spec.

Good Morning Haventaclue,,,I couldn't sleep either,,,worrying bout this *&*&&^!! Great minds think alike,!! I had some concerns bout the readings. I used my Fluke 25 meter that has been a reliable meter, but it is a (can't remember the terminology) floating meter in that it only has one setting for Ohms and self adjusts for req'd range, or you can manually set range (decimal point) with a button on face, but for some reason, I could not get meter to change the decimal point (range). So, I enlisted the help of an El Cheapo multimeter from Harbor Freight,,,and didn't trust those numbers either!! I'm headed to Sears this morning to get a new meter I can believe in. These electrical parts are way too expensive to start changing out because of a faulty meter,,,! On the two yellow wires, there IS continuity between the two wires and I did not think there should be, which was my reason for mentioning it. Is this a "YES" or a "NO"? There is NO continuity from either yellow wire to ground, tho. That is exactly what I did, is cut the wires close to the stator and solder new heavier wires and insulate with heat shrink. I'll go back and put another layer of heat shrink on the joint.,,,great idea,!! Don't give up on me , Guy, we're beatin em back, one at a time,,,!!

Hey Kimcrwbr1,,went to Sears up in the Alien city but they didn't have what I considered a quality multimeter,,,($19.99?) Drove by O'reillys and they had a nice Bosch ($49) so here I am. Re-checked the stator and the trigger and coils with new meter and the Stator is OK,,,,, All 6 coils check out OK,,,,,,BUT the trigger is BAD, according to test procedures from www.Readmanual.com . wire to wire Brn Trigger lead W/O yellow sleeve and Wht trigger lead W/ yellow sleeve is 1.37 supposed to be 11-14,,, wire to wire Wht trigger lead W/O yellow sleeve to violet trigger lead W/ yellow sleeve is 0 supposed to be 11-14,,, wire to wire violet trigger lead W/O yellow sleeve and Brn trigger lead W/ yellow sleeve is 1.43 supposed to be 11-14. Downloaded your links and fixin to study them some before I go back out to boat,,,also waitin for sun to go behind house,,,, It HOT today,,,,wish me luck,,,,,

Guys,,,PLEASE disregard previous post #61,!!! I am getting FRUSTRATED,,I have troubleshooting guides from three sources, www.cdielectronics.com, , www.outboardignition.com. and www.readmaunal.com. all three have different value ranges for testing stator, trigger and coils. For example CDI lists stator test OHMS range = 2000-2500, outboardignition range for stator test = 5800-7000 hi side and 135-165 low side. Readmanual lists scale reading @ Rx1000 =4.5-6.2, plus 5.4-6.2, plus Rx1= 125-175. WHY all the different ranges or do they ALL mean the same thing to those people that know what they are doing,,,?? Now I will say this,,when using the new Bosch multimeter and going by the readmanual.com procedure all my test results indicate the stator is good,,,but way out of range with the other two procedures,,, WHAT to do,,,???