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1988 Chrysler 360, rebuild myself or purchase reman'd long blocks

Klaus85

New member
New to this forum and thanks for all the great information so far. I have a question I'd like to ask everyone's opinion on. This spring I plan on pulling both our engines and either rebuild them myself or purchase remanufactured long blocks. The boat has been out of the water for a better part of three years now, I was in for a few months in 2013 and both engines ran. We developed a leak on one of the elbows off the raiser, but when we pulled off the elbow we found the raiser was cracked so we replaced that as well. Towards the end of that season that same engine started getting harder and harder to start. We pulled the boat out for winter storage, than in the spring we could not get the engine to rotate at all. So, I'm going to pull both engines this spring to get them running again. I believe these are the original engines to the boat and believe it or not they only have about 600 hours on them, so these engines sat a lot. To top is all off, the drain plug was never removed during winter storage and the engine compartment was full of water when I opened it up last spring. from what I can tell no water got on the engines, but they need to be pulled just to make sure. So, what do you think my best approach would be? I'm in no rush to get them back in the boat, I'm sure I'll need to do some serious fiberglass work, maybe replace a stringer or two, so I have time.
Thanks again
Ben
 
I've rebuilt engines for 50 years (and still do) but when my 360 seized I bought a rebuilt long block and have never been sorry. The cost of doing it RIGHT yourself (boring the block for oversized pistons, etc.) will be close if not more expensive than getting the long block (which are cheaper than Chevies!)

Do yourself a huge favor and get the long block.

Jeff
 
Thanks for information Fastjeff, I'll keep that in mind.

I've rebuilt engines for 50 years (and still do) but when my 360 seized I bought a rebuilt long block and have never been sorry. The cost of doing it RIGHT yourself (boring the block for oversized pistons, etc.) will be close if not more expensive than getting the long block (which are cheaper than Chevies!)

Do yourself a huge favor and get the long block.

Jeff
 
Ben, it will be imperative that you find out what has been causing the water intrusion that very likely caused the sieze up.
Otherwise, you may end up having a repeat of the same scenario with the new engines.



A tip that may help you:
During winter layup, I always remove my seawater pump impellers (Johnson crankshaft pumps, so this is easy for me).

This not only gives them the oportunity to relax and NOT take a SET (while being left in the pump body), but it also gives me the oportunity to do a quick 10 second "dry start".
The quick dry start blows any residual water from the exhaust system.
A run time of only a few seconds will not harm any rubber exhaust components.

During that same 10 seconds, you can do your engine cylinder fogging.

I've been doing this for longer than I can remember.... and with no issues to date.


If you have the Sherwood style belt driven seawater pumps, the belts can be loosened while you achieve the dry start.
The ony down side to that, is not removing the impellers for the layup duration, and the "set" will occur.

Nonetheless, the dry start can be quite an advantage.



.
 
Last edited:
Ben, it will be imperative that you find out what has been causing the water intrusion that very likely caused the sieze up.
Otherwise, you may end up having a repeat of the same scenario with the new engines.



A tip that may help you:
During winter layup, I always remove my seawater pump impellers (Johnson crankshaft pumps, so this is easy for me).

This not only gives them the oportunity to relax and NOT take a SET (while being left in the pump body), but it also gives me the oportunity to do a quick 10 second "dry start".
The quick dry start blows any residual water from the exhaust system.
A run time of only a few seconds will not harm any rubber exhaust components.

During that same 10 seconds, you can do your engine cylinder fogging.

I've been doing this for longer than I can remember.... and with no issues to date.


If you have the Sherwood style belt driven seawater pumps, the belts can be loosened while you achieve the dry start.
The ony down side to that, is not removing the impellers for the layup duration, and the "set" will occur.

Nonetheless, the dry start can be quite an advantage.



.
Thanks for the info Ricardo, we typical would flush the engine cooling system and fill it with fresh anti-freeze each fall when we pull the boat. than we'd disconnect the saltwater intake hose and fill them with anti-freeze, than start the engine's and run them at idle till we had anti-freeze coming out the exhaust. This let us know we had both the block and exhaust systems protected. Once I get the motors out I can take a better look at them, the last thing I want to a repeat. While winterizing the engines we also do the fresh water systems on the boat, bathroom etc. Thanks again.

ben
 
Thanks for the info Ricardo, we typical would flush the engine cooling system and fill it with fresh anti-freeze each fall when we pull the boat. then we'd disconnect the saltwater intake hose and fill them with anti-freeze, then start the engine's and run them at idle till we had anti-freeze coming out the exhaust. This let us know we had both the block and exhaust systems protected.
ben
Ben, please take a few minutes and read this write-up.

http://www.amazon.com/review/R3BD7X6QC3KCFR/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R3BD7X6QC3KCFR

.
 
IF one drains the block, manifolds and risers FIRST, then runs the A/F through with the motor running (until it comes out the back) there is no possibility of water left in the motor.

The bypass line alone is enough to prevent an air lock (what it's for). Coolant circulates just fine with the t-stat still in place. I've done it both ways (t-stat in or out) and there's no difference.

Jeff
 
Jeff, I don't disagree if/when the person doing this has a full understanding of the cooling system.
The guys who don't quite have a full understanding are the ones who may get into trouble.


The raw water cooled engine rust scale that A/F prevents during the layup is paled by comparison to that which occurs during the normal season.
IMO, A/F in the cylinder block/heads does nothing more than to give us that "feel good" feeling.
Do it if you want to...... but drain it again afterwards to be 100% safe.

Just plain ole air will not freeze expand and ruin our expensive cast iron components during freezing temperatures.
Never has.... never will! ;)



.
 
Jeff, I don't disagree if/when the person doing this has a full understanding of the cooling system.
The guys who don't quite have a full understanding are the ones who may get into trouble.


The raw water cooled engine rust scale that A/F prevents during the layup is paled by comparison to that which occurs during the normal season.
IMO, A/F in the cylinder block/heads does nothing more than to give us that "feel good" feeling.
Do it if you want to...... but drain it again afterwards to be 100% safe.

Just plain ole air will not freeze expand and ruin our expensive cast iron components during freezing temperatures.
Never has.... never will! ;)



.

That was an interesting article, I now understand your reason for removing the raw water pump when prepping for the winter. I'm sure my knowledge and understanding of these engines cooling systems will greatly enhanced with this forums collective knowledge. I believe we waited for the t-stat to open and continued to pour A/F in the raw water intake hose till we were sure the block was full of A/F. Once I start ripping into the systems of these engines I'll have a better understanding of "why" we had this problem. In the mean time I need to get the motors out. So, let me ask you this. Is it better to pull out the entire power package together "aka engine, mission, v-drive" of is it better to pull the v-drive out by it's self?

I plan on having the v-drives gone through while they're out as one of the dip sticks is broken off and I don't believe the oils been serviced for a couple of years. Again the boat hasn't been taken care of very well, but we're getting it back to where it should be. Thanks again.

Ben
 
.....................
That was an interesting article, I now understand your reason for removing the raw water pump when prepping for the winter.
Yes, if left within the pump body, the blades will eventually take a "set", of which actually shortens the impeller's life.
However, not all impellers are easy to remove for the winter, so not only does this not happen, often impeller maintenance is defered as well.

I believe we waited for the t-stat to open and continued to pour A/F in the raw water intake hose till we were sure the block was full of A/F.
That's the misnomer. We see A/F exiting the exhaust, and we think that all is OK, when it's not.
My write-up explains why!


In the mean time I need to get the motors out. So, let me ask you this. Is it better to pull out the entire power package together "aka engine, mission, v-drive" of is it better to pull the v-drive out by it's self?
Ben, you may want to ask the Chrysler guys this question. Much will depend on space and access.
 
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