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1966 Evinrude Sportfour- Gear problem

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Mikka8701

Contributing Member
Hi All, I'm chasing a. New control box for this engine does anyone know where I can get this from?
Also my great shifter has way to much play in it anyone know how I can adjust as the control cable moves fully but doesn't engauge the gear as there is too much play ?
i also need a alternator or generator whatever you call it that changers the battery off the engine does anyone know if this engine came with one and if so where I can get it from?

any help would be appreciated ?
 
It takes a common Evinrude Simplex or Johnson Shipmaster two-lever remote control. Very common, you may be able to get a new one here at marineengine, or if not try the on-line auction. Or better yet, a free want ad on the www.aomci.org website.

First you will have to identify the location of the looseness. If it is not at the adjustable assembly at the top, the next most common problem item is the inner shift lever inside the exhaust housing. Item number 63 on the parts page here at marineengine (Exhaust tube assembly grope). Not exactly easy to access.

A belt-driven DC generator was an accessory item. Most motors were sold without one. An expensive and complex system. Consider a battery charger.
 
Boobie said:
I'd forget the generator bit on that motor and just use a battery charger as said above.
Click to expand...
I am currently using a battery charger that's you need to attach to 12v power however this doesn't feel ideal when out on the water as if my battery dies I don't feel comfortable pull starting it.
 
fdrgator said:
It takes a common Evinrude Simplex or Johnson Shipmaster two-lever remote control. Very common, you may be able to get a new one here at marineengine, or if not try the on-line auction. Or better yet, a free want ad on the www.aomci.org website.

First you will have to identify the location of the looseness. If it is not at the adjustable assembly at the top, the next most common problem item is the inner shift lever inside the exhaust housing. Item number 63 on the parts page here at marineengine (Exhaust tube assembly grope). Not exactly easy to access.

A belt-driven DC generator was an accessory item. Most motors were sold without one. An expensive and complex system. Consider a battery charger.
Click to expand...

i don't mind however I live in Australia and postage my be expensive otherwise for the right price Im happy to work something out ?
 
fdrgator said:
It takes a common Evinrude Simplex or Johnson Shipmaster two-lever remote control. Very common, you may be able to get a new one here at marineengine, or if not try the on-line auction. Or better yet, a free want ad on the www.aomci.org website.

First you will have to identify the location of the looseness. If it is not at the adjustable assembly at the top, the next most common problem item is the inner shift lever inside the exhaust housing. Item number 63 on the parts page here at marineengine (Exhaust tube assembly grope). Not exactly easy to access.

A belt-driven DC generator was an accessory item. Most motors were sold without one. An expensive and complex system. Consider a battery charger.
Click to expand...

In regards to the play in the shifter I have checked in the exhaust housing and it doesn't appear to be the issue. The issue I belive is in the actual lever but I don't know where the adjustment for this part is.
Also do you know the part number of the generator that was sold with this motor?
 
Disconnect the shift cable from the engine's shift handle. Halfway down the long exhaust housing (between the powerhead and lower unit), you will see a plate attached with two screws... remove that plate. Now remove the inner plate you see inside. There you will see the brass shift connector.

Jam that brass shift connectot with a screwdriver tip, long nose pliers, whatever you have on hand that will keep it from moving.

Now, with that brass shift connector jammed, move the engine's shift lever in one direction, then the other. If any play exists in the engine area, it should become obvious where the problem lies.

Let us know what you find.
 
joereeves said:
Disconnect the shift cable from the engine's shift handle. Halfway down the long exhaust housing (between the powerhead and lower unit), you will see a plate attached with two screws... remove that plate. Now remove the inner plate you see inside. There you will see the brass shift connector.

Jam that brass shift connectot with a screwdriver tip, long nose pliers, whatever you have on hand that will keep it from moving.

Now, with that brass shift connector jammed, move the engine's shift lever in one direction, then the other. If any play exists in the engine area, it should become obvious where the problem lies.

Let us know what you find.
Click to expand...

Thanks joe for the reply. I know exactly where you are talking about I tried to hold the top shift rod closest to the power head from moving however no matter what I do the shift rod will not go in fully. I have tried to also hold the shift rod with pliers and move the gear shift so the top shift rod slides down but it still doesn't mesh in fully only partially
 
In the first place you should get the motor adjusted and working properly with the control cables disconnected. Only when the motor is correct should you connect the control cables. The control must be installed and adjusted to fit the motor. Never adjust the motor to work with the controls.
 
Mikka8701 said:
Thanks joe for the reply. I know exactly where you are talking about I tried to hold the top shift rod closest to the power head from moving however no matter what I do the shift rod will not go in fully. I have tried to also hold the shift rod with pliers and move the gear shift so the top shift rod slides down but it still doesn't mesh in fully only partially
Click to expand...

So... Are you saying that while preventing the upper shift rod from moving at that brass connector area, there is play between that brass shift connector and the shift handle, or no play exists. Your present reply doesn't answer my concern.
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Is the motor in neutral with the shift handle straight up? Are you spinning the prop by hand as you try to shift gears with the engine not running? If it is not going into forward gear my guess is you didnt get the shift coupler on correct. Put the shift handle straigt up and then measure the distance the shift handle moves in both directions. If it moves less going into reverse than into forward, Remove the gearbox and make sure the coupler bolt hole is center of the groove on the lower shaft and tighten it good then put the gearbox in and then center the groove in the upper shaft in the bolt hole and tighten it good. I just lift up on the coupler in the hole with a screwdriver and push the shift rod into the coupler with the shift handle just make sure the groove is center on the bolt hole in the coupler. The bolts on the coupler need to be real tight as well if the shafts just slide up and down that could keep it from going into forward gear fully as well.
Click to expand...


Thanks for this info guys will check and get back to you. On another note I'm needing to put a generators on my engine I found one that I am going to pick up on the weekend the part number is 378160 will this also for on my 1966 Evinrude 60 hp as the ad said 40hp?
 
kimcrwbr1 said:
Is the motor in neutral with the shift handle straight up? Are you spinning the prop by hand as you try to shift gears with the engine not running? If it is not going into forward gear my guess is you didnt get the shift coupler on correct. Put the shift handle straigt up and then measure the distance the shift handle moves in both directions. If it moves less going into reverse than into forward, Remove the gearbox and make sure the coupler bolt hole is center of the groove on the lower shaft and tighten it good then put the gearbox in and then center the groove in the upper shaft in the bolt hole and tighten it good. I just lift up on the coupler in the hole with a screwdriver and push the shift rod into the coupler with the shift handle just make sure the groove is center on the bolt hole in the coupler. The bolts on the coupler need to be real tight as well if the shafts just slide up and down that could keep it from going into forward gear fully as well.
Click to expand...

The motor goes into gear without a problem when shifted by hand I have evan spun the prop to determine this. The play exists in the base of the handle itself this is the part that I would like to tighten just not exactly sure how to do it.
 
Mikka8701 said:
Thanks for this info guys will check and get back to you. On another note I'm needing to put a generators on my engine I found one that I am going to pick up on the weekend the part number is 378160 will this also for on my 1966 Evinrude 60 hp as the ad said 40hp?
Click to expand...

40hp and 60hp generators are the same, however the belt pulley is different. BUT, it takes a whole lot more than the generator itself. You need the belt pulley that bolts onto the flywheel, and the belt, and a US$100 voltage regulator, a regulator cable, an ammeter, a different junction box cover, various hardware, etc. Did I mention it is a complex system?
 
You have one knobbed pulley attached to the flywheel for a belt to drive the distributor.

There needs to be a second knobbed pulley attached to the flywheel for a belt to drive the generator pulley.

Does that 2nd knobbed pulley exist?
 
Here's a wiring diagram for a 1964 60hp (close enough). If you need a larger sized diagram, cleck on my name, send a msg and include your email address and I'll get it to you.
64_60HP_WIRING-2.jpg
 
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