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redsnapper386

Regular Contributor
hi guys,i will skip alot of all the tests i ran on my 1987 sea ray 350,a-1.my issue as of today is no fire at the spark plugs which points to a bad coil.this will the second coil to go out.im using a marine hei with the coil inside the cap.now the question what could cause this.i also am running with 2 batterys with a battery switch.some times i use all selection instead of 1or2.could this be the culprit.i under stand that one should run boat either on #1or#2.if i think batteries are low i will use the all selection.a coil kit cost about 37.00 delivered.thanks again for all help.
 
What distributor is this? Is this a HEI similar to a GM HEI from the automotive style?

I have never seen a marine version of the old AUTO GM HEI...
 
Chris, you are certainly in the know on this.

Question: if his charging system voltage is higher than need be, could that be causing an issue?


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chris yes same as your picture.ghost it is the auto style but modified for marine use with 2-screened holes on bottom.there is a co in alabama that makes these.not cheap.i googled marine hei dist,and found them a few years ago.thanks,as ricardo said i wonder if my charging system voltage could be too high when in the all selection on battery switch.just a thought here,i guess these coils are made in china and are not up to quality standards.thanks again guys.
 
redsnapper386 said:
1...... it is the auto style but modified for marine use with 2-screened holes on bottom.
2.... there is a co in alabama that makes these.
Click to expand...

1.... If hell bent on using this, make sure that the automotive advance curve has been corrected for Marine use.

2.... Are they certifying these for Marine use?

If not certified, and IF you were to have a gasoline vapor explosion caused by a Non-Approved ignition system, your insurance company will have an easy OUT... not to mention recieving a potential USCG violation!


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ricardo,the auto advance is removed and hole plugged off.will check on certification.i went to these dizzys because the original gm eci dizzy with built in sensor would not hold up either.parts for that are sky hi.so now im looking at coils not holding up.
 
Since the original and the replacement are failing.

What is your charging voltage? (Alternator output)

If it is more than 15 VDC constant this could be your issue......

There is no reason for a GM HEI to fail......those were one of the most bullet proof designs of the day!!

Also how are you hooking up the shift interrupter switch?
 
These coils will burn out from a bad ground and stray voltage. It is important to have the dielectric grease on the rubber isolator. Check your ground and make sure it is 100%.

Make sure the contact point and the isolator are installed in the correct order. Grease the rubber isolator on both sides drop it on the cap then drop the contact point in, push the ground tab in the cap and drop you coil on top, tighten it down.


Check the external plug on the distributor and make sure you have three wires, Batt+, Ground and Tach.

Excessive heat will destroy this coil also. I have run flex bilge vent tube hooked to an outside vent inlet and hung it right over the distributor to cool it down.
 
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good stuff guys,chris i just discovered in the top of the cap the rubber washer is missing,this washer holds the pin in place,so i have all new stuff coming via mail.this is another case of something so simple.i caught this from your picture above of red cap.will post back later when i get this stuff re installed.ghost,shift interrupt switch is wired as you mentioned above.as far as voltage from alternator i will test next .thanks.
 
ghost,dont know yet as to what the alt is putting out,i know i am closing in on my problem here thanks to you guys.this is the best forum i have seen any where.i do know that no.1 battery has low volts as i have to keep charging it.i keep a trickle charge on both year round.thanks.
 
I was referring my last post towards Chris.

You obviously have component problems with your distributor cap and coil assembly as you seem to be missing parts.

Not sure why you went to the HEI from the thunderbolt.......????
Also you said the same thing occurred on the thunderbolt system???


After charging your battery let it sit for about 1/2 hour. then measure the voltage across the terminals. NO connections just the battery.
it should measure in at 12.6 volts =/- 2 volts. A new battery typically has 2.1 volts per cell 2.1 x 6 = 12.6. Many will have 12.8 volts when new.

If you are under 12 volts then you have a defective cell.

Anything less then 12.4 volts and it means typically time for a new battery. SOmetime with a 2 amp charge for about 12 hrs it can bring it back up but not always.

A trickle charger is only so good. If it does not desulfate (pulse) then it can sometimes damage the battery.

I typically charge my batteries on and off, say on for a week and off for a month and repeat with a battery tender charger one with a desulfate pulse capability.


If you use a straight charger that puts out a steady 2 amps then only leave it connected for 12 hrs or less. and only charge it if the voltage drops below 12 volts on a digital meter. This is for winter storage.
 
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redsnapper386 said:
ricardo,the auto advance is removed and hole plugged off.
I was not speaking of the vacuum advance unit. Vacuum advance only throws more advance out during high manifold pressure... of which we do not concern ourselves with for a Marine Gasser.

I was refering to the progressive and TA that the Marine engine requires, in that the two are not the same.

will check on certification.
Good call.
You certainly don't want any issues with it not being Marine certified.

i went to these dizzys because the original gm eci dizzy with built in sensor would not hold up either. parts for that are sky hi. so now im looking at coils not holding up.
Click to expand...
 
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