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15D15 runs like a pig

I acquired a 1963 Gale 15D15 in pretty rough shape, but it was cheap. I have got it running but it dies after a couple of minutes, and then refuses to start again. I can see a small bubbling oil leak in the crankcase join, is this the culprit ?
 
What is the cylinder compression ?----------How strong is the spark ?---------Will spark jump a gap of 1/4" or more , yes or no ?-----Have you replaced the water pump impeller ?
 
The compression, felt by hand feels good, but I haven't tested it, I do have a compression tester though. The ignition has been changed to two car ignition coils running off a battery. The original Gale coils are missing.There's a good spark.

I have checked the impeller, blown out the carb with solvent, new plugs, and set the points gaps to 20 thou.
 
????????-------The proper ignition coils are very common.------In stock at most outboard shops and cheaper than dirt.-------Not sure why anyone would go to the trouble of using car coils on that motor .
 
The coils are standard automotive ones, I don't know if they have internal resistance, what value of ballast resistor would I need ?

Would the timing cause it to die then refuse to start ?
 
I've got 90 psi on the top cylinder, my compression tester won't fit in the space for the bottom cylinder ( unless i drill an access hole in the case, or can get an L shaped adaptor )The short runs its had have left the plugs heavily fouled black.

I have found the timing marks on the flywheel and the timing plate. Set to start, the mark is about one inch away on firing. My spark tester clips on the plug and there's no space to get to the bottom plug. I will look around for some new tools that fit.

Can anyone explain the purpose of the movable timing plate ? I am only used to the fixed timing on generator engines.



I don't have a tachometer that will work on this.



The timing plate is quite loose and won't stay in position when its running, the whole linkage up to the throttle control arm is worn out and loose.

You are motivating me to fix it though, thanks.keep it coming.
 
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Question.

The word "Top" is stamped on the cam ring, does that mean which way up, or the top of the cam, or both ?

When my flywheel and cam plate marks are lined up, the access hole in the flywheel is no where near the adjusting screws on the points. I'm baffled.
 
I just set the points according to that very same YouTube, with a meter, strangely a few hours ago before I read the post above.

Not firing at all now, but plenty of fuel in the carb. I will give it a go with some starting fluid.

Q. What position should the throttle plate be in when starting ?


I know the crankcase vacuum / pressure can't be tested, I fear the seals may be leaking.
 
I have set the points with a meter with the timing marks in line. As per the you tube mentioned above.

I am getting a reasonable fire with a bit of ether spray. Which tells me the carb needs more work. Now I need to remove the Welch plug over the low speed jets, and find a replacement.

I need to source a 1/2 " Welch plug in the UK, any ideas anyone ?

I also need to replace the needle packings, would an o ring do the job ?
 
????-------How long does it take the electricity to travel the extra foot or so to the coils ??????-----Would that really throw the timing off as said ????
 
I have got it running at last, every 5 seconds or so I'm getting a clunk sound like making the letter K sound "kuh", the motor is jerky and running rough.oil is leaking from the crankcase join. Feels like the big end bearings are trashed.

I might scrap it unless I can get crankcase seals, bearings, and all the parts for a refurbin the UK ?
 
I will check that today.

Another point is the amount of oil the exhaust throws out, a big oil slick spreads out around the boat, the manual says 24:1 ratio, I'm thinking maybe reduce this a little to see if this cuts it down ?

There were no gearbox oil leaks when it was on a stand, would it leak from the propshaft when its running ?
 
I have put new o rings in place of the old packing, they are snugged up tight.

The crankcase bolts are all tight.

Will the fuel pump suck from an open fuel can, ( with primer bulb ) or does it pressurize a fuel tank ?


Thanks for all your replies, I am getting somewhere now.
 
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