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coolant tube?

murfman

Regular Contributor
I am retro fitting 2 SP-A drives in my 1972 Magnum Sedan with Chrysler 360 engines. I purchased the SP-A drives and Transom assemblies separately and am getting ready to put everything together. The one transom Assy I have was originally from a 4 Cyl application and had a long tube for the inlet cooling water, and the second transom has no tube The ones on my old Chrysler transoms were short and I am looking for a comparable piece for the SP-A/ 290 style transom plate. Does anyone have any pictures/part numbers of the different tubes offered by Volvo? Or a pair of them for sale?

Here is my cut out transom (Just to show off)


And mocking up the drive for trim tab clearance:

 
Go here and look at V-8 engine models that would use the SP-A drive, and find the part number for this water tube.
http://www.marinepartseurope.com/en/volvo-penta-schematics-MarineGasolineEngines.aspx

FYI..... your early OEM Chrysler engine flywheel covers will be equipped with a course spline PDS (aft end).
Your SP-A transmission universal drive shaft female yoke will be fine spline.

If your SP-A drive shaft bearing crosses are internally clipped, you will be able to install your old course spline female yokes onto the SP-A .

If externally clipped, this yoke will be a difficult part to find. (I've only seen a few)


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The yokes are internally clipped, and I've already cleaned them up and installed speedi-sleeves on them.

So am I to understand that all the V-8 water tubes are the same?
 
The yokes are internally clipped, and I've already cleaned them up
1... and installed speedi-sleeves on them.

2...So am I to understand that all the V-8 water tubes are the same?


1..... If you have the double bearing PDS flywheel cover, the bearing box bearings will be serviceable. Do not make the AFT seal breach proof!
Future Excessive grease gun pressure may push the FWD seal out of it's bore, leaving the more important AFT bearing without lubrication.
This seal also installs in the non-conventional direction...... I.E., lip and tension spring visible from AFT.

2.... No.... I'm suggesting that you look at the V-8 installations.


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From the models I looked over it looks like the same part number for the 4.3,5.0 and the AQ131. I am not familiar with Volvo Penta's identification system, I'm not sure which model numbers would be a V-8 with a 290/SP-a outdrive.

I have already replaced the bearing and seals in both PDS covers. There is only 1 bearing in this setup.







As you can see there was some considerable corrosion on the PDS (Old Salt water boat) I cleaned them up as best I could and had them powder coated. The surface where the bellows attaches is clean so I dont think I will have any problems. Obviously the Chrysler PDS is pretty rare, so I have to work with what I have

 
Ok...... single bearing PDS with pilot nose.
Your crankshafts must have pilot nose bushings.
Your F/C s each have a grease port from what I see.
If so, this means open bearings were used.
Your FWD seals appear to be captive.
Your AFT seals are installed incorrectly.

Suggestion:

since these are not intended to be a water seal, drill a tiny hole in the seal body so they will breach pressure.


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Ok...... single bearing PDS with pilot nose.
Your crankshafts must have pilot nose bushings.
Your F/C s each have a grease port from what I see.
If so, this means open bearings were used.
Your FWD seals appear to be captive.
Your AFT seals are installed incorrectly.

Suggestion:

since these are not intended to be a water seal, drill a tiny hole in the seal body so they will breach pressure.


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Thanks for the info. I installed the seal the same way the old one was installed, not saying the old one was installed correctly lol. The engines had been changed, so who knows. I will order a pair of new seals and replace them in the correct direction. Thanks. Murf
 
That's ok! I have seen many of these seals installed incorrectly...... and and I have seen many of the forward seals pushed out of their bores. (Yours are captive, I believe)

If you did install open PDS bearings, and if your flywheel covers have the PDS bearing grease ports, simply drill a small hole in each seal.

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Will they fit? I once swapped a 318 Chrylser for an existing 283 Chevy. The 318 as a 90 degree engine was somewhat wider and I had to get out the old saber saw....
 
Yes it did originally have Chrysler engines, I also moved the outdrives apart 2" (1" each) to gve me a little more room between the engines, as things were pretty tight



I am also updating the exhaust to the later center riser setup Chrysler used in the mid 80's just before they abandoned the marine market



The original setup had the exhaust exiting to the front of the engine up through the riser, down then back under the manifold and out the transom. Access to the starter and oil filter was severely challenged. With the more tradional center rise exhaust exiting straight back through the riser, I am eliminating almost 15" of 3 " exhaust hose in the bilge.
 
In the engine picture you can also see that the Port engine was incorrectly installed and was out of square by 1" from front to back, must have played hell with the U-joints in the coupler... I really wonder about some "Mechanics" in the world.

I am also going to make adapters to run a crank mount water pump setup, eliminating 1 of the belts on each engine. With the manual Hydraulic external steering, there will only be a belt for the circulating pump and alternator, this along with the exhaust updates should really clean up the whole compartment a bunch, and make it easier to service as well.
 
Good call on many of these changes........ especially the crankshaft seawater pumps!
You won't regret that.

By the way....... the B/W drive coupler and PDS are fixed geometry.
The one engine being out of square would have been strange, but would not have caused any major universal drive shaft issues....... certainly odd though!



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The transom shields are straight, it was just bolted down crooked and the rubber sealing rings took up the slack.

B.T.W. does anyone have the seal flange for the transom shield when using a thru-transom exhaust? Volvo shows it as obsolete, and I'd like 2 of them.
 
I've converted two 260 transom shields ( at different times) to thru transom exhaust.
The last time I did it, I left the Y pipe in place (bolts did not want to come out) and cut the "Y"s to about 2 " long. I then cleaned up the inner bore with some sand paper. I then coated two S/S pool winterizing plugs with sealant and inserted them in the Ys seating them so that the wing nuts were below the pipe end before tightening them. I then bought a pair of neoprene pipe caps and hose clamped them on the ends ( sealant on O/D of Y pipe as well)
I then found a cork plug that just fit in the exhaust hose hole on the outside and coated it with sealant both inside the bore and as an overcoat on the cork. If I could have found another neoprene cap that fit over the exhaust port on the outside of the transom shield, I would have done that instead of the cork plug, but could not find one. I left the exhaust inlet port on the drive itself uncovered. Six seasons now, no problems.

The first time I did this conversion (283 SBC to 318Mopar), I had access to a machine shop and made a blocking plate out out of 1/8" (approx) marine grade Aluminum to replace the Ypipe and used the regular gasket.
 
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Murfman, good job... nice and clean now! :D

Suggestions:

Be sure to begin with a full PDS grease cavity (purging of all air). Otherwise, you will not know how many future grease gun pumps will be required to suppy new grease to and through the ball cages.
(give future grease with engine running at idle)

Don't bother turning the AFT seals around. Simply drill a hole in each one to give the old grease an exit route.


If your flywheel cover snouts are good at the bellows "bead" sealing grooves, you'll be OK.
Just make sure that the lower lip area of the snouts are smooth and won't cut into the bellows material as the drive is raised.

As for abandoning the OEM Y-pipes, making block-off plates should be fairly straight forward.
 

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Got the transom plate, Helmet, and fork powder coated and purdy. What are the chances I'll need to rebuild the trim cylinders? I see that V-P does not offer service parts but they are available on E-Bay.

Also how involved is it removing the Trim Fork from the intermediate housing? I'd like to powder coat that as well. Then paint the drive itself with a quality epoxy to match



 
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Got the transom plate, Helmet, and fork powder coated and purdy. What are the chances I'll need to rebuild the trim cylinders?
Very good chance.

I see that V-P does not offer service parts but they are available on E-Bay.
That would be Bill L in Canada. He has sourced the parts and now lists them for sale.

Also how involved is it removing the Trim Fork from the intermediate housing? I'd like to powder coat that as well.
Are you asking about the anchorage yoke... the part that the hydraulic cylinders attach to?
These are SS, and if cleaned up, they usually hold up to salt water fairly well.
 
Ah.... the suspension fork!!!!!

The pivot tube must be carefully removed in order to R&R the suspension fork from the Intermediate housing.
Use caution at both upper and lower areas of this tube.


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Ah.... the suspension fork!!!!!The pivot tube must be carefully removed in order to R&R the suspension fork from the Intermediate housing. Use caution at both upper and lower areas of this tube..
Do I just drive it out with a drift after removing the hose nipple?
 
Do I just drive it out with a drift after removing the hose nipple?
Absolutely not! (sorry....... I don't mean to sound gruff!)

The upper surface must be in pristine condition in order for the water neck fitting's special beaded gasket "bead" to seal against.
The lower suface must also be in pristine condition for the large O-ring to seal against.
The tube itself is rather soft, so if you drive it downwards, use an aluminum punch just a bit smaller than the pivot tube's OD.
Better yet, find a way to either press or pull it downwards and out the bottom.

I fabricated a special tool for removing these.

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