383 Stroker Marine Stroker Build
Well I am planning out a marine 383 Stroker and I would like some input and opinions along with some guidance on cam selection. After my own bonehead maneuver I got caught and my block froze and cracked.It also blew out one of the vortec 906 heads in the process.The boat is 1999 bayliner 2655 in mint condition and the motor was too. The Motor was a 5.7 merc. With 2 barrel carb. It has a Bravo 3 2.2 geaing with 26 pitch props. Frankly I wasn’t unhappy with it’s power as I was able to pull a tube of 2 riders with 5 still on the boat. At first I was going to tear down the block,find a block, have it machined, replace rings, bearing etc and do it on thecheap, but alas finding a donor block that doesn’t need to be bored is like finding a needle in a haystack and there would be no effective quench.I then thought about doing a quench build 355 by replacing the pistons etc and having the block zero decked. I have not beenable to find effective pistons and rings that by the time I was through itwould be about $700 more than the basic rebuild. So I started looking into the 383. I read and read both in marine and street forums and this is what I have come up with. This should be around and additional $700 dollars over a quenchbuilt 355 with gobs more torque, exactly what a boat needs. To be honest I alsothought about a 454 and I have the room but I do not want the stern weight in aboat that is already plenty stern heavy.
The boat is raw water cooled and I run in fresh water however I am considering a salt water trip or 2 in the future so full marine protection is needed.
So here is my plan:
350 Roller block Cleaned, checked, Bored, honed, zero decked,brass soft plugs and cam bearings installed from machinist $560
I would use this RotatingAssembly with Flywheel with the appropriate flywheel and damper
This set up running the 22cc dished pistons and being .005 in the hole should give a quench of.044 and a compression ratio of 9.209:1 which is seems high if I ever have to run 87 octane fuel which I know will happen at some time.
This is where my questions start. I amfairly certain I will need a new intake and carb. I was thinking of going with the edelbrockmarine on both with the 600 for the carb. Is there suggestions here that wouldbe similar, easy to tune and maybe a bit more expensive? Or I have the throttle body from the donor motor and the marine electric fuel pump what would it take to go to that setup and would it be better?
Next onto cam talk. I called comp cams and one of the techs suggested a couple of cams for me to meet my needs. Neither is a “marine cam” but he said should be no problem with stock, wet exhaust through the drive. He suggested xr258 hr or x4258 hr I would love input on those for marine cruiser use. Also the cam directly effects the Dynamic compression ratio which is a more accurate way of determining detonation problems and it seem to me that a dynamic compression ratio of about 7.5 is the max for 87 octane fuel. Any opinions or input on this would be greatly appreciated.
Well I am planning out a marine 383 Stroker and I would like some input and opinions along with some guidance on cam selection. After my own bonehead maneuver I got caught and my block froze and cracked.It also blew out one of the vortec 906 heads in the process.The boat is 1999 bayliner 2655 in mint condition and the motor was too. The Motor was a 5.7 merc. With 2 barrel carb. It has a Bravo 3 2.2 geaing with 26 pitch props. Frankly I wasn’t unhappy with it’s power as I was able to pull a tube of 2 riders with 5 still on the boat. At first I was going to tear down the block,find a block, have it machined, replace rings, bearing etc and do it on thecheap, but alas finding a donor block that doesn’t need to be bored is like finding a needle in a haystack and there would be no effective quench.I then thought about doing a quench build 355 by replacing the pistons etc and having the block zero decked. I have not beenable to find effective pistons and rings that by the time I was through itwould be about $700 more than the basic rebuild. So I started looking into the 383. I read and read both in marine and street forums and this is what I have come up with. This should be around and additional $700 dollars over a quenchbuilt 355 with gobs more torque, exactly what a boat needs. To be honest I alsothought about a 454 and I have the room but I do not want the stern weight in aboat that is already plenty stern heavy.
The boat is raw water cooled and I run in fresh water however I am considering a salt water trip or 2 in the future so full marine protection is needed.
So here is my plan:
350 Roller block Cleaned, checked, Bored, honed, zero decked,brass soft plugs and cam bearings installed from machinist $560
I would use this RotatingAssembly with Flywheel with the appropriate flywheel and damper
- Crankshaft: Genuine Scat
- Crankshaft Stroke: 3.750"
- Crankshaft Material : Cast Nodular
- Journal Diameter: 350 Mains
- Rear Main Seal: 1 pc RMS
- Connecting Rods: Genuine Scat
- Connecting Rod Type: Pro-Stock I-beam with ARP Cap Screws.
- Connecting Rod Size: 6.000"
- Wrist Pin: Full Floating
- Connecting Rod Material: Forged 4340 Steel
- Pistons: Wiseco Fully Forged High Performance
- Piston Size: 4.030" (383 actual CID)
- Dome Volume: -22cc RD Dish
- Piston Material: Forged 2618 Aircraft Alloy
- Piston Rings: Mahle High Performance
- Ring Size: 1/16 1/16 3/16
- Ring Fit: Drop-In. Ready to install.
- Ring Tension: Standard
- Ring Material: Ductile Iron/Cast/Stainless/Moly
- Main Bearings: King MB557SI
- Rod Bearings: King CR807SI
- Balance: Ext. In House on CWT balancer.
- Damper: Pro-Race brand 6.75
- Flexplate: 168 tooth HD SFI Approvable, 153 tooth is available. Manual Trans. flywheels also available.
This set up running the 22cc dished pistons and being .005 in the hole should give a quench of.044 and a compression ratio of 9.209:1 which is seems high if I ever have to run 87 octane fuel which I know will happen at some time.
This is where my questions start. I amfairly certain I will need a new intake and carb. I was thinking of going with the edelbrockmarine on both with the 600 for the carb. Is there suggestions here that wouldbe similar, easy to tune and maybe a bit more expensive? Or I have the throttle body from the donor motor and the marine electric fuel pump what would it take to go to that setup and would it be better?
Next onto cam talk. I called comp cams and one of the techs suggested a couple of cams for me to meet my needs. Neither is a “marine cam” but he said should be no problem with stock, wet exhaust through the drive. He suggested xr258 hr or x4258 hr I would love input on those for marine cruiser use. Also the cam directly effects the Dynamic compression ratio which is a more accurate way of determining detonation problems and it seem to me that a dynamic compression ratio of about 7.5 is the max for 87 octane fuel. Any opinions or input on this would be greatly appreciated.
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