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2003 bf225 cuts out

My 2003 225 has 410 hrs on it when I takeoff it gets on a plane then at 3500 rpm it acts like goes into a rev limiter mode if I let off the throttle it smothes out at 1800 rpm I can turn off the key and restart and it will go up to 3500 and cut out again. it never alarms when any of this happens. it does this every time I take off. thank you for any help
 
If their is no any alarm or lights come on,it could be fuel issue, check low pressure fuel filter and water separater fuel filter inside the boat.when the problem is occur try to pump the fuel by pressing prime bulb,whether its make any changes,


wajira
 
Also check/replace the high pressure filter. That often turns out to be the main culprit in these situations. When was the last time it was changed? It should be done annually. Even if the engine is not used much, that filter will deteriorate.
 
OOPS! Change annually or every 200 hours, whichever comes first.

If you have not done so, go to http://marine.honda.com/owners
and download the operator's manual. Follow that maintenance schedule religiously. Wherever it says "100 hours", or "200 hours" add "or annually, whichever comes first."

Ignore where it says to change the oil filter at every 200 hours. Change the oil filter whenever you change the oil.

One other thing, when you pull your 100 hour maintenance, remove the spark plugs and coat the threads with a thin film of marine high temperature grease, and re-install. This will prevent them from seizing into the head.
 
Did you change the low pressure fuel filter also? Just to be clear, as you follow the fuel line from the tank, it first goes into the onboard fuel/water separator, then to the low pressure fuel filter. These are both on the front right side of the engine. Then the fuel goes to the VST and high pressure on the back of the engine. The HP fuel filter looks like a cylinder with a hole in it. Which did you change?

Did you drain the VST?

And, as Wajira suggested earlier, when the engine was cutting out, did you try pumping the pump up bulb in the fuel line? If that pumping improved the performance, then it is an indicator that you may have a failing low pressure fuel pump.
 
cut out mean,did engine goes off or engine RPM drops down ? remove fuel line from low pressure filter outlet,pump prime bulb and see,it should be free flow fuel.


wajira
 
I replaced the low pressure filter under the oil filter, drained the vst, checked the pickup tube in the fuel tank, had someone pump the bubble while running down the lake.
 
The motor runs up to 3500 rpm then jerks just like it does when you hit a rev limiter if I let off the gas it runs smooth under 1800 rpm if I give it gas again it jerks once it gets over 1800 if I stop and shut the key off and start it again it runs smooth till i hit 3500 rpm.
 
I replaced the low pressure filter under the oil filter, drained the vst, checked the pickup tube in the fuel tank, had someone pump the bubble while running down the lake.

You don't mention replacing the HP filter? That is one of the most common causes of the symptoms you are having. Did you replace it?
 
what about the strainer, which is under the High pressure fuel pump ? most of the time, dirty will not come by draining VST,if too bad HP filter,better to open pump and clean the strainer also.


7.jpg this how its come out,

wajira
 
Let us know how that works with the strainer and VST cleaned.

On draining the VST - right before you drain it, turn on the key switch to pressurize the system. If you turn the set screw more than 3 turns and nothing comes out, it is clogged up. Try blowing low pressure compressed air back through the drain hose to see if that unclogs it. If not, you will need to remove and disassemble the VST to clean it.
 
I cleaned the vst and the strainer under the hp pump motor did the same thing at the lake when hit 3500 it starts just like it hits a rev limiter. I brought it home and put the water muffs on it started it and put it in gear gave it the gas up to 3500 and does the same thing out of the water.
 
i hope you checked free fuel flow to VST, float and needle of VST and air vent for VST. I have never found bad low pressure mechanical fuel pump,but make sure that also working fine,
I think at this time you require a assistance of Dr.H. at 3500 RPM what going on the engine system, that is the best way,

wajira
 
I took it to two Honda dealers and one said he didn't find anything and the other said there was nothing wrong with it I hope to find a dealer that will go the lake and try it. thanks for your help
 
I'm with Wajira on this one. If I were in your position I would disassemble the VST and check the float and needle valve very closely and clean it thoroughly. Make sure the air vent is clear.
 
A failing knock sensor would give you a series of long intermittent alarms and a code 23 if you pulled the fault codes. Perhaps you should pull your own fault codes instead of relying on the dealer. Send me an e-mail at [email protected], and I will send you the procedure for pulling them if you do not already know it.

This is getting pretty mysterious. Two ideas...

1. You have a faulty connection or seal somewhere in your fuel line. When you get to higher rpm's it starts sucking air into the fuel line. Finding that will be a real pain. It would likely be somewhere between your tank and the low pressure fuel pump. The first things I would check would be the seals on your external fuel/water separator, the seal on the onboard fuel/water separator, and the seal on the low pressure fuel filter. It could also be a pin hole in the fuel line. I have often used a clear plastic hose the same ID as the fuel lines and successively inserted that between terminal points to see if there are any air bubbles. That may be tough to do since it only happens at the 3500 rpm speed, but it may be worth a try.

2. Your ECU is failing. However, I think that is a real long shot given your description of the problem and the engine runs smoothly up to 3500 rpm.
 
Here is one that is off the wall....check you neutral start switch on the engine. It is supposed to keep you from starting in gear and it also tells the ECM when you are in gear so the ECM can act accordingly.

If the ECM thinks that you are still in neutral and you overrev the engine, it will limit the rpm (like a rev limiter). If the neutral switch is defective or the linkages are out of adjustment, the engine may or may not start in gear and the engine rpm will be limited. So...check the neutral switch for proper operation and check the linkages are working properly.

If the mechanics used Dr. H, they should be able to see if the ECM sees the switch as on or off. They may not have seen it, since that value is very low down the list and to see it they have to scroll down the page.

Like I said...off the wall.

Mike
 
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