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1100 hr valve job and........

RicardoMarine said:
I agree with Mark.
And I'll go on to suggest that the pitting in the piston deck may have been caused from Detonation.

When you go back together, watch your Ignition advance very closely. We're talking about the progressive and TA... not BASE or Initial advance.

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Mark while the block is being rebuilt I have time now to understand this better. Most likely we will be getting a new, stock distributor with electronic ignition. With that and all new mechanical timing, what else do I need to be concerned with?
 
If the machine shop does the long block, and you get new distributors, you are only left with the bolt-ons....if cost isn't an object, get all new ones. otherwise, get them rebuilt. Renewing the oil hoses would be prudent as well. It would be wise to get the gear overhauled while things are apart.....beyond that, cooling and exhaust hoses should be the only big items left.
 
makomark said:
If the machine shop does the long block, and you get new distributors, you are only left with the bolt-ons....if cost isn't an object, get all new ones. otherwise, get them rebuilt. Renewing the oil hoses would be prudent as well. It would be wise to get the gear overhauled while things are apart.....beyond that, cooling and exhaust hoses should be the only big items left.
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Thanks Mark!
By the time I spend the money to rebuild/upgrade the original distributor, I'm moneywise close to new so that solves that. Cost is getting to be an object but I will price out new oil cooler lines and try to squeeze that in.
 
A few years back, DiverDave made a recommendation for an aftermarket source to replace the cooler lines.....perhaps using the search engine will yield that info - push on hi tech stuff with no special crimping devices required....I remember seeing them use that stuff on race cars eons ago...
 
makomark said:
A few years back, DiverDave made a recommendation for an aftermarket source to replace the cooler lines.....perhaps using the search engine will yield that info - push on hi tech stuff with no special crimping devices required....I remember seeing them use that stuff on race cars eons ago...
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Yeah my machine shop uses a company and they are getting me prices. Got some good parts pricing here, and on Ebay so I might be able to afford it! Looks like I will have the engine back by the end of this month; almost halfway done with this project!
 
Just bought the 3 oil cooler lines and 2 exhaust (Crusader brand) elbows from marinepartssource.com . Prices were very good with free shipping and no sales tax.
 
Not much to report this week; heading to the machine shop this weekend to check progress, take some pics, exhaust manifolds are out to be cleaned/magna-fluxed/pressure tested, all parts have been ordered too. I've found a place that will sell me the greenline hose needed in bulk so I'll go up this weekend and measure for that. Gotta find the motivation to finish cleaning the bilge area next week and inspect the rest of the exhaust system.
 
Finally! Yesterday afternoon we witnessed the 2hr test run of the completely rebuilt engine (using only the original block and heads). Ran great! Engine will be delivered to our boatyard this Weds. Then were going to attempt to shoehorn it in through the cockpit entry, fully assembled!
 
Bob H. said:
Finally! Yesterday afternoon we witnessed the 2hr test run of the completely rebuilt engine (using only the original block and heads). Ran great!
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Be careful as to how much time is spent operating this engine with no load on it!
Cylinder pressure is needed to properly seat the piston rings.


Quick story.

Years ago I knew a man who installed a freshly overhauled 5.7 SBC.
He thought that he would be smart and run this engine before putting the boat in the water.
He ran the engine approximately 6+ hours, varied the rpm, kept a close eye on temp etc.
When he finally did get the boat in the water, the engine consumed oil and lack of performance.

His 6 hours of no load operation caused the piston rings to somewhat glaze over the cylinder walls, resulting in not properly seating.

Once an engine reaches this stage, there is no going back.





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RicardoMarine said:
Be careful as to how much time is spent operating this engine with no load on it!
Cylinder pressure is needed to properly seat the piston rings.

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Will do Rick! And we did discuss this issue. But since we have no idea what caused the piston damage, the engine re-builder and I decided this one time two hour test would be beneficial.
 
Wow! Never heard that happening before, but it makes sense.

I warm 'em up, then run the hell out of 'em! Never had one blow up on me yet (but there's always a first time!)

Jeff
 
Me too!

Though it was a loooong time ago, I remember how I babied my brand new Firebird 400, taking weeks to "properly" break the motor in before whacking it for the first time; and it was a DOG! Ended up selling it to a girl who was bored with her Corvette and liked the green color!

Jeff
 
back from kidney transplant; everything went well! Gotta take it easy for a week or so,then, looking forward to finishing that engine!
 
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