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1984 Johnson 4hp Seahorse general informations needed

I could make a bid for you if your willing to drive down and pick it up? I live 20 minutes out of Auburn worst senario I would have another motor to restore :)
 
Toxophilite said:
Thanks
Do you know what the bottom splines are?
Click to expand...

Bottom splines are ten flutes - it looks pretty standard. I suspect that the bottom splines didn't change.

The other change was in the type of key for the impeller, to a plastic key in a flat rather than a brass key in a drilled hole. I don't know if both the upper spline change and the key change happened at the same time (but I'd bet they did).
 
THanks for the splines info.
And thanks kimcrwbr1 for your very generous offer! I really appreciate that. The Can dollar is in the tank ($100 US = $140 CAN) so right now the price of the motor plus the price of driving down there is cost prohibitive but it did put me in mind of the parcel pickup services in Point Roberts or Blaine. From checking out the ad it looks like the fellow is offering FREE shipping in the states? I might go see if I'm allowed to bid
 
Here's what she looks like under the hood
Looks pretty clean though there is some wet feeling rust(?) as seen in the pictures, that can't help the ignition
Time to consult the manual againjohnson point3.jpgjohnson points.jpgjohnson points 2.jpg
 
Looks pretty good actually especially you say it has been dunked in water. You can allways add a kill switch while the flywheel is off. Drill a hole in the plate and install two wires one from each set of points then seal the hole with silicone black and mount a kill buttom on the cover. I prefer to replace the points rather than clean them along with new condensers. Either way be sure and clean the points and feeler guage with acetone and set the points exactly .020 and the plugs at .030.
 
I guess the advantage of the kill switch is an alternative way to shut it off if using the throttle fails to do so for whatever reason?
 
Alot of guys around here gerry rig their kickers to start at higher rpms. If you catch a fish trolling you just kill the motor and then pull the rope as soon as the fish lands on the deck. It is easier to maintain control starting in forward at higher rpms before the wind spins you around. The throttle will always kill the motor I doubt that will be an issue but if you kill it at higher rpms it keeps the crankcase loaded with fuel and restarts can be alot easier. Just something you can try!
 
Good one! I will do so , and thanks, I still have my dad's torque wrench and As I'm working on it in my apartment I really do have to take it elsewhere to fire it up. Though I do have one neighbour that I'd love to see his face if he heard me running a 2-stroke in my place...
Seriously though I gapped the points, one seemed a little tight so I opened it up a little

Maybe if this migraine I have goes way I'll fire it up tomorrow

I need to get something around the spark plug leads where they pass through the clip that guides them round the head. The plastic sheathing got roasted when it overheated out on the water. I was trying to think of a good replacement material. I only need to cover them for the inch or so that got roasted. I'll contemplate the kill switch idea. Embarrassingly , though I've been sailing ALOT, I've not tried fishing since I was a little kid. Probably should get a license and give it a go.
 
Good morning no if your spark plug wires are damaged they need to be replaced. Your local small engine repair shop will have new wire the correct size. You will need to pull the points plate and then pull the coils out install the new wire in the coils and slide the boots up tight then install back into the plate. There is a metal band for the top wire make sure you put that band on the correct new wire/coil.

Use a straight edge to line the coils up for the proper air gap to the flywheel.
Also if the boots are damaged get new ones
 
Good morning, or rather evening! (sick)
THe spark plug wires themselves seem to be good
There is a looser black plastic(maybe) sheathing that goes around them from the bottom of the points plate to the clip which holds them to the side of the head. i think it's basically shielding them to some extent from the heat of the engine and perhaps contact with the powerhead in general. It got cooked on the sparkplug end where it passed through the clip that holds them to the actual head. the two spark plug leads seem fine at that point. Here, a picture, worth the proverbial 1000 wordsjohnson leadscover toast!.jpgjohnsons leads.jpg
 
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Kimcrwbr1
I was looking in the package parcel places they have in Blaine and they seem half decent
I was wondering though are you interested in that motor as a shortshaft??
If you bought it I could pay you well for the extension bits, making the motor significantly cheaper
and if you didn't have the short shaft parts (drive shaft, shot rod and water tube (though I could make the latter 2 myself)
I could maybe send mine down to you
I don't know if that's at all worthwhile but i thought it didn't hurt to ask
 
I made an offer of $150 plus shipping will let you know how it goes. I wouldnt worry about the shrink tubing it really does nothing there just clip off the ugly part and run with it.
 
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On points and condensers
I had been reading that points didn't often wear out and I know you ca n resurface them and make sure they are clean , shiny and making good contact.
pricing out both up here puts it at around $50 can for a sett up 2 points and 2 condensers
The US/Can dollar rate is a huge factor as all the parts come from the states

I think the condensers are about $7.50 a pop while the points(breakers) run at about $15

Can I save a few $$ and clean up the points and just buy new condensers?

After setting my points I was having trouble with only one cylinder running, I had another look at them and cleaned one up a lot and made all the wire attachment points were clean etc and got both cylinders to fire but i'm thinking my sparks are a little orangish and it's still running a little rough (might need carb cleaning done again)
 
Another interesting point, Somehow I think the 1970s and earlier motors might be less prone to swamping as their cowling seems to enclose the motor more fully, even having a rubber seal around the lid, while this one is pretty open on the bottom. I wonder why the design change. I used to have a 5.5 fisherman from the 50s, good motor, smooth! but HEAVY! (for my boat), it was more enclosed too. Anyone close these things up more on the bottom??
 
OMC has gone back and forth on the cowling question. My '87 is too tightly cowled, with a minimum of five screws that must be removed to check the plugs!
 
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