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New rectifier - still not charging

Progator135

Progator135

Regular Contributor
I posted a while back about my 1975 Evinrude 135hp 135589E Not charging. Pretty much diagnosed down to a bad/incorrect rectifier that I pulled off an old motor...Got a new one..and voltage still only increasing about 2/10ths of a volt when revving (a little). Noticed the new rectifier has 2 yellow wires instead of one yellow and one yellow/gray. Tried each in both positions..no change.. Not much left to change except the stator. Thoughts?
 
The new rectifier(s) simply have two yellow wires and it doesn't matter which one the yellow/gray goes to should a yellow/gray be a connecting wire.
 
Progator135 said:
I posted a while back about my 1975 Evinrude 135hp 135589E Not charging. Pretty much diagnosed down to a bad/incorrect rectifier that I pulled off an old motor...Got a new one..and voltage still only increasing about 2/10ths of a volt when revving (a little). Noticed the new rectifier has 2 yellow wires instead of one yellow and one yellow/gray. Tried each in both positions..no change.. Not much left to change except the stator. Thoughts?
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Go ahead and change the stator if you want to, but that wouldn't be the wise thing to do. Much better is TEST everything in the charging circuit to identify the defective part. There is no voo-doo in electricity. The rules have been around ever since the Creation....or Big Bang, whichever is your persuasion. Concerning that new rectifier, a brand new one can be destroyed instantly if the original cause wasn't dealt with. So...test your new rectifier to see if it is blown, and if it is, find out why. Don't just keep throwing parts at it.
 
What kind of meter are you using to do your voltage tests ?? Analog or digital ?? And have you tried a different one ??
 
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The stator on the 135 hp is normally just a 6 ampere stator so it doesn't put out a great amount of charge.

A ohm meter set on low ohms connected between the disconnected yellow wires should register 1.0 ohms +/- 0.2 ohms.

There should be NO reading between either yellow wire and ground... a reading here would indicate a shorted stator lead to ground. If the above readings are as I've indicated, the stator is good.

In double checking the rectifier, disconnect one lead from the battery first. The proper method to test the rectifier is as follows.

(Small Rectifier Description & Location)
(J. Reeves)

On most 2,3,4,6 cylinder engines, the small rectifier is located on the starboard (right) side of the engine just in front of the engines electrical wiring strip. There are a few older V4 engines that have the wiring strip on the rear portion of the engine and the rectifier would be located just under that terminal strip. The smaller horsepower engines usually have the rectifier located on the starboard side of the powerhead close to the carburetor area.

The rectifier appears to be a round object approximately one inch (1") in diameter and also about one inch (1") high. The base of it is sort of triangular in appearance and is attached to the engine with two (2) screws/bolts..... usually one screw/bolt is larger than the other. The rectifier, depending on which one your engine uses, will have either:

One Red wire, one Yellow wire, and one Yellow/Gray wire, or One Red wire, and two Yellow wires.

Note that either of the above rectifiers could have a fourth wire which would be Yellow/Blue

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
********************
(Small Rectifier Test)
(J. Reeves)

Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
No Im not a fan of just throwing parts at it..especially a $300 stator....if I had money coming out my ears I sure wouldnt be fussing with that old rig.. anyway..Ill do the rectifier test and see...Ive pulled the flywheel and inspected and checked continuity on all the wires, nothing broken or dirty or obviously defective.
I was a jet engine mechanic in the air force for 20 years...Believe it or not I have plenty of mechanical/troubleshooting experience...unfortunately my boat motor doesnt say Pratt & Whitney or GE on the side of it...:D
 
as kimcrwbr1 says you need a dva meter or dva adapter to use any posted procedures to properly check stator output on the charging circuit...but you can use the regular ac voltage scale to see if the stator is putting out at all..take these readings with the regulator or rectifier hooked up...check that and get back to us...i have a book somewhere with some readings i took once upon a time like that on a 90 evinrude...will find it if you need me too...
 
I have a really fancy Fluke multimeter...It has all sorts of bells and whistles....even a thermometer...It may have a DVA on it...never had to look for it. As far as that Schematic, Ive yet to find one for my motor. Mine has the voltage regulator and cant find a good schematic that includes it.
 
You dont need a wiring diagram to find out if you have a bad stator...you have two wires coming from under the flywheel feeding the regulator or rectifier...if you have a rectifier there is a terminal block...with a regulator there may or may not be a terminal block...there may be a plug ...with the motor running at 2k rpm you should have ac voltage on these wires...you may have to skin a little insulation back to get to bare wire if you do not have the terminal block....get back to us on the amount of voltage if there is any...if you have no ac voltage there then you want to take a continuity check between these two wire going back through the stator...kill the motor and disconnect the wires to do this.....if you have a plug instead on a terminal block read back from the disconnected plug...set you meter on rx1...got back to us with the reading if any..
with the motor not running you should have battery output on the red wire ....it should be there at all times..
you said you replaced a part...was it the rectifier within the regulator or a stand alone rectifier or what?..please give us the part number of the part you replaced...
 
note..on the red wire i mentioned...you should have battery output with the motor not running...with the motor running you should have rectifier/regulator output in addition...at 2k rpm it should be around 14.8 after the motor has been running a couple minutes if you have a regulator..with a rectifier only system this will vary but it should be higher than battery output....
 
the reason i ask is because the motor probably had the rectifier only and if so you will never find a wiring diagram with the regulator and rectifier on it...
 
Holy cow thats awesome!! Thank you for that! Thatll help tremendously! For some reason the voltage regulator for my motor is shown on the "Cylinder and Crankcase" diagram. #113 and specifies for 135589 only. That'd be me. ANd yes..Ive double checked those fuses...put the meter on em and checked continuity and all. Several times...thinking something may have happened the last time I ran it...Theyre still good.
 
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Yes sir, It is case mounted on the block with an aluminum mounting adapter plate and the ground wire is securely bolted into one of the mounts. All connections tight and clean.
 
The rectifier and voltage regulator are brand new but Ill double check. The only thing I havent scrutinized is actually removing the stator and looking underneath for anything obvious, broken wires, burnt stuff, birds nest, small children ETC. ...if there even is anything under there - dont know....Ill do all the ohm checks on the stator and rectifier and make sure all is good first. Probably wont be till friday evening...You guys all gave me my " to-do" list so Ill check it all out and go from there.
All you guys are a great help. I really appreciate it.
 
To post a "flashback", so to speak... Just exactly what makes you think that the charging system on that engine isn't working.

Do you have a tachometer? If so, and the tachometer is functioning properly, the charging system is functional due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system.
 
it looks to me you have two outputs on 12volts here...the rectifier and regulator are both fed by the stator...then the rectifier output goes to the battery positive post..the regulator goes through the big plug and then to the start switch....i dont see where the regulator output(pink) and the red output from the rectifier are tied together at any point...i think this diagram is missing a wire or a misplaced wire......possibly a jumper on the terminal block between the regulator and rectifier output..(the bottom two terminals on the block) the motor would not even turn over as drawn unless the yellow wire coming from the rectifier has 12volts on it...and i doubt that as it is tied to stator output...

or maybe its too early in the morning and my coffee has not kicked in..

good deal on finding the diagram kimcrwbr1....i looked all over and drew a blank...
 
joereeves said:
To post a "flashback", so to speak... Just exactly what makes you think that the charging system on that engine isn't working.

Do you have a tachometer? If so, and the tachometer is functioning properly, the charging system is functional due to the fact that the tachometer operates off of the charging system.
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The tach is working fine...I dont believe its charging because I get no increase in voltage when the motor is running. Volts at the battery when not running is 12.5 - start the engine and when revved to about 2K it only increases to 12.7. My understanding is that it be upwards of 13-14V when at higher RPM...I did ask the question in an older thread (papyson there was another thread about a month ago...) "if the voltage regulator is doing its job would I see that much increase?" However when I checked voltage at the wires from the rectifier - prior to going into the regulator - there was still only 12.7V. so something is putting out a tiny bit of juice somewhere...seeing that 2/10th of a volt increase. But when on the water runing full throttle my volt gage on the dash should be up around 13-14. (right?) its steady at 12.5. The guage works - when I have the charger on the battery its reading exactly what the digital charger is reading - usually around 14V. Something just aint right.
 
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