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OMC drive rebuild

captain_peter

Contributing Member
I like to change the seals on my omc drive but I am having a hell of a time removing the bearing carrier seem to be seized .
Tried heating the casing but no give.
Any professional tricks to this /
Thanks
 
Hi Boobie,
Yes I am talking about the propeller shaft bearing carrier, The drive is off 1989 omc 4.3 liter engine
I changed the seals on the other drive last winter and although the bearing carrier was a beggar to take out but after heating the casing on outside it came apart.
This one it just wouldn't budge. Strange thing the other one was different, the carrier was held with 4 bolts to the inside ( back ) this one is held with two tabs in the front I am wondering if this one is an older model perhaps maybe been around longer.
Thanks
 
Take the tabs out. Then get some threaded rod and put into the screw holes that hold the tabs in. Next get a flywheel puller and install on the threaded rods. Next apply pressure on the end of the prop shaft and apply plenty of heat to the gear case where the carrier sits. Hopefully the carrier will come out.
 
Done all that but no luck applied heat with two torches one one each side and still would not budge Iam using plumbers torches is that enough or has to be acetelan and oxy
 
I always used ACY as it gets good and hot. Sometimes down in FL here I'd have to apply enough heat and stop just before the aluminum bubbled.
 
I am kind a nervous to use ACY since I never used it before specially when you say you just stop before the aluminum bubble. Is there another way
to go around it. If not where can I rent this equipment or you have to have a license to use it and what cautions I have to watch for
Thanks
 
Not hot enough. You need MAPP or acetylene. Put some soap marks on the case. If the soap starts to turn color STOP.
 
Mapp gas should supply more than enough heat!

DO NOT use Oxy/Acet unless you know exactly what you are doing!
If you do use Oxy/Acet..... make sure that you use an Acet rich flame... not an Oxy/Acet neutral flame.


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I looked at home depot and they have one is called Benzo matic, one with oxygen and one with out.
What's your suggestion ?
 
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I've never used Benzo but the one with the oxygen may get hotter.

Yes, any gas with oxygen will provide more heat...... the Benzo w oxygen or Oxy/Acetylene.
A neutral flame will be the hottest!

As said, be very careful with a neutral flame when using on aluminum!!!!!!
You'll not only risk too much heat, you may also risk oxidizing the aluminum.



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Ricardo, I guess I'm stupid but what do you mean by a neutral flame ?? I've used a torch for a long time and never heard of it.
 
Ricardo, I guess I'm stupid but what do you mean by a neutral flame ?? I've used a torch for a long time and never heard of it.
Not stupid at all. Perhaps you know what I'm taking about by another name!

I first learned to work with metal in the early 60's. When gas welding or cutting with Oxy/Acet, I was shown how to open the gas valve first, but to also add a small amount of oxygen when igniting the flame.
This prevented acetylene soot, and also initiated a real flame.
Once the flame was going and with oxygen, you can see distinct feathers from and created by the oxygen.
As you increase the oxygen the two feathers will blend into one.
That is what I learned to be a "neutral" flame! (I. E., the hottest flame per acetylene)

Any less or more oxygen, the flame will cool some.
Too much oxygen, and your flame won't be correct while cutting...... and you'll fight oxidation while gas welding.


But back on topic.......

I think that unless you are extremely careful, Oxy/Acet is a bit too hot to use for heating and expanding an aluminum drive case!

If Mapp Gas won't do it, you likely have some severe corrosion issues.



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Thanks for the reply. I always did the same thing but never heard of the "neutral flame". I've used a lot of Oxy/Acet down here in FL on salt water motors but as everybody said, you have to be careful. Thanks again for the reply. Boobie.
 
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