What Say You Guys

Agt this stage Im still progressing with my restoration, Ive gone as far as I can on the Volvo for the min so Im doing some other work like replacing my floor and some internal fibreglass repairs, I have an option if the Volvo turns out to be unreliable or just a pup, a mate has given me a 115 HP Evinrude V4 in very nice condition, so Im thinking about making a pod for the transom and hanging the Evinrude and do away with the stern drive, personally Id rather go the outboard as I know them and what to expect from them, at this stage Ill continue with the Volvo just in case its going to prove me wrong, interested in what you guys think

Remind us again of what kind of boat/engine/drive you have now?
Generally, I'm not a fan of the swap the I/O for an OB scene, even though I kinow why owners of certain brands of I/O drives might be driven to do this.

Some general comments...

1) Doing this change is not for the feint of heart. If not done correctly the results can be disasterous.
2) Even if done correctly and safely, shifting the weight of a motor and drive further back can adversely impact the trim of the boat.
3) A properly maintained Volvo engine/drive will be more a more reliable and fuel efficient setup than an equivalent O/B.

When I bought (in 2005) my current power boat it had a circa 1969 raw water cooled engine and drive that ran perfectly . the owner flushed the system with fresh water ( T fitting and two valves in the water line from the transom to the raw water pump) on a regular basis. He was on his third set of elbows and second exhaust manifold. Not bad for over 35 years in salt water! I swapped the original 283 block for a 350 block as the 283 was really a bit undersized for the hull. At the same time, I swapped the original 250 leg for a (salvaged) 280 since I thought the better gears in the 280 were better suited to the bigger engine. The steering bearing on the water tube was seized and replaced ( remember, a salvaged as is drive) Rick changed the bearing crosses, main input shaft seal and the keeper for me on the transmission after I used it for 7 seasons.
Oh yeah.... I had to replace the seal on the shifter rocker shaft in season 2.

After over 50 years of boat ownership and friendships with MANY neighboring boat owners, the Volvo engine/drive system, if properly maintained, is the most reliable propulsion system out there, excepting straight inboard gas or diesel.

Good points there Bob, my boat is a 17foot fibreglass runabout basically what we call in oz a fish/ ski combination, engine is a Volvo B20 4 cylinder AQ130, the leg is an AQ100B it has universal joints/ crosses.
I spoke to her last owner and got the story about it, the engine was totally recnditioned 15 years ago, the guy got divorced and the wife ended up with the boat it sat in a shed for 14 years untouched, then it was sold to my mate and then onto me from the recon it had only 10 hours work though happily dispute that, I have done lots of work to the Volvo engine Im sure it will run fine, At most Im just going to use it for dragging a ski biscuit around with the kids in it and some hooning about I dont fish anymore so just fun,Ive been sniffing around and for not alot of money I can get a new electronic dizzy for it, point can and do let you down, A new marine Holley Carb is not real expensive long as i can jet it down enough to be effective, Ive overhauled the cooling system, just awaiting an exhaust outlet and Ill start it, how do I get the oil out of it? Do I need a sump pump? its like 17 year old oil and its pretty thick and grunky

My first boat was an 18 ft Deep V runabout with a B18 engine and the exact same drive. Engine had two Zenith downdrafts. It ran great and sipped gas. I used it mostly for fishing and with a prop change for waterskiing. After getting eelgrass sucked up into the oil cooler, I changed the boat to a thru hull "hi speed pickup" raw water inlet and a 1/4 SS shutoff valve with an stringer mounted sea water strainer. Took the exhaust hose from the elbow down to the pickup/exhaust off and just let it exhaust @ the transom. A bit noisier, but also a bit better fuel burn. I later installed a bronze T with a garden hose valve and used it to flush my engine w/ fresh water.

Re: oil change.... if the oil is warm, you can use one of the dipstick pumpouts.... Otherwise....(especially given the age of the oil) I'd put a large disposable aluminum foil roasting pan under the engine and remove the plug at the back of the pan. Its dicey getting the oil filled pan out if full of oil. I used to bail most of the oil out with a soup can and dumped it into a bigger container until pan was mostly dry.

A thing to check after all these years is that the advance mechanism in the disti is not rusted and moves freely.

Also, check that the lift out mechanism still works OK.

Also... disconnect the shift cable inner rod from the control end and the drive end. Clean off both ends. Generously grease the exposed end at the head end (leave connectors on the ends as stops. Pull shift cable from the drive and as far as it will go (until it hits end fitting stops) clean exposed shift rod, generously lube w/waterproof grease, restore to normal position and readjust if required ( i.e., that when shifter is in neutral that the shift arm at the drive is exactly lined up.

A new boot over the universal joints should be on your list. I changed mine every 3 to 4 seasons regardless.


Lube the steering pivots and the push-pull steering cable. be sure to get rid of as much of the old grease as possible.

Thanks mate some good advice there, the advance works fine i checked it when i replaced the points and condensor etc thorough lube up, dizzys are often over looked, lil bit of grease on the cam and a drop of oil down the top of the shaft goes along way, i have to replsace the shift cable mine is siezed for the cost im going to replace both gear and throttle cables, im a huge fan of excessively greasing so it will all get done, specially the prop shaft along with new shear and cotter pins.

Given the P/O's maintenance of the boat.... That prop as I recall has a thin rubber hub in addition to the shear pin. Before you launch, mark (scratch/scribe) both the inner hub and prop itself with a line and check later to see if it's slipping. BTW have owned a number of boats since my first which was much like yours, and to be totally honest, it was the best bang for the buck boat I've ever owned and the one I used the most, both alone and with 1 or 2 friends along. Enjoy.... just watch conditions carefully.