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ford 289 with 270 leg bell housing removal problem

freebee

New member
I have my 289 out of the boat, I want to strip the engine. the bell housing and pds shaft housing with shaft are in place.

I have taken off the starter and all the bell housing bolts, I have taken the 2 bolts off the cover flywheel plate. I thought the bell housing complete with pds housing should just slide off the two dowels however it does not want to be parted from the engine.

what have I missed??
 
The Volvo Penta Ford flywheel cover (bell housing in the auto world) will be a single bearing PDS with a pilot nose, and should separate from the engine.
It's possible that the drive coupler and PDS splines are rusted preventing separation.
.
 
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thanks I thought it should just slide apart but when i drive wedges between the flywheel cover I can separate it about 3/8 inch but it just springs back. should I tap the pds shaft see if I can loosen it??
 
Yes, you could try shocking the PDS in hopes of breaking any rust free.

Worse case...... you will bore a hole into the flywheel cover to gain access to the drive coupler mounting bolts.
With the drive couple removed, the flywheel cover, PDS and coupler will all separate.


.
 
worst case boring a hole may not be an option as the engine is frozen and wont turn over so I cant index the flywheel under the hole!!! i will just keep at it.
 
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You're going to hate yourself if you break that flywheel case. If it is springing back as you say it's the splines stuck in the drive plate as Rick say's. Poke a whole in the case and get some good penetrating (sp) oil in on that shaft and splines and let it work. It may take some time, days, but it's better than killing that housing. Do what Rick said if needed after my little trick. Time is your friend.
 
You're going to hate yourself if you break that flywheel case. If it is springing back as you say it's the splines stuck in the drive plate as Rick say's. Poke a whole in the case and get some good penetrating (sp) oil in on that shaft and splines and let it work. It may take some time, days, but it's better than killing that housing. Do what Rick said if needed after my little trick. Time is your friend.
Yes, I agree. Give that a try.

1... is there any rubber in there ?
2..... could I bore the hole and apply some heat to the PDS Shaft splines/drive plate?
1... No.. no rubber hub as with the Mercs or OMC drives, or later Volvo Penta.
You'll have an all steel Borg Warner drive coupler similar to this..........

images


........ and a PDS w/ pilot nose similar to this.

images


2... Yes, you may want to try that before applying penetrating oil.


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just to round this story off, once I cut the first 1 inch hole in the cover, very luckily it lined up with the first 2 of the drive plate bolts-very lucky!!!, I tried heat and penetrating oil on the shaft but it would not budge. so I took out the two bolts I could see and drilled 2 more access holes for the other pairs, spotting the rough positions for the access holes from the first hole, with all the bolts out the cover and drive plate came off easily and once out, the shaft slid out of the drive plate with very little force!!! just took me about 4 hours of fiddling around!
 
Having a boat is never wondering what to do with a spare dollar or a spare hour. :)

Ain't that the truth?!

Freebee, you did well for yourself! :D Now you have a much better understanding what's going on in there.


Be sure to replace the PDS bearing, and if serviceable, be sure that you pre-fill the grease cavity with a high pressure bearing grease.
Also, if replacing this engine, make sure that the crankshaft bushing is there for the PDS pilot nose.
Also, grease the PDS and Borg Warner splines, and this will come apart with ease next time.


.
 
Thanks guys, the PDS shaft does not have a pilot nose.

Typically the 335 series Ford engine mated to a Volvo Penta AQ series drive used a 1 pc flywheel cover, of which used a single bearing PDS w/ a pilot nose.
(see image below)

However, if no PDS pilot nose, then you very likely have a 335 series Ford Borg Warner flywheel cover with a B/W -slash- Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing w/ a double bearing PDS.


Borg Warner flywheel cover:
(example only)

images



Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing:
(shown upside down.... the grease fitting is actually on the top side)

images



Here's the adapter shown right side up:

images



Could also be an Eaton, Donzi or Glastron PDS adapter housing w/ a double bearing PDS.

Or..... it could be an extended PDS adapter housing by Eaton, Donzi or Glastron.
(these move the engine forward by 3-1/8")

images



Either way, I'd suggest replacing the bearings and seals.
These will be industry standard parts. A good major bearing supplier should have them, or will be able to bring them in for you.

You'll need to modify the tips of a loooooooong needle nose pliers in order to remove the two AFT most snap rings..... unless you can find a snap ring tool thin and long enough to reach into the PDS bearing bore!

This is the Volvo Penta double bearing PDS in the second and third image below.
If you have the Donzi, Eaton or Glastron adapter, it will be similar only.
 

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Here's what the Borg Warner F/C and Volvo Penta PDS adapter housing look like when mated.
Short of the extended PDS adapter housing, dimensionally the two styles (1 pc or 2 pc) are identical.
 

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From the pics I have a two piece Borg Warner with VP PDS I was told I have a ford 289 motor. its certainly 2 bbl carb. Ford V8, was blue but now over painted red. It came from a winner speedboat.
 
The beauty and draw-back of the double bearing PDS:

+ both bearings are open and lend themselves to future lubrication.
+ the forward bearing ensures PDS centering.
- the engine must be removed in order to remove the PDS and change bearings.

The beauty and drawback of a single bearing PDS:

+ PDS pilot nose provides centering.
- for the V8 engines, the bearing is a sealed bearing, and does not lend itself to future lubrication.
+ the engine does not need to be removed in order to remove the PDS and change the bearing.



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Thanks I will be looking into a bearing change ,if the engine is viable to overhaul.

At the moment its stuck tight due to the previous owner allowing water in the block, its not as bad as it sounds because he flooded it with light oil soon after, however the main task is freeing everything off and assessing the damage.
 
Are you sure that this engine is not locked up due to freeze damage that may have allowed water into the cylinders?

Keep in mind that the 5.8L can be a replacement for your 5.0L.

The intake manifold and ignition distributor will not interchange.

.
 
Hi,

No its sea water and the core plugs (you call them freeze plugs) are all intact. I have the heads off and now removing the sump pan. This was a bad buy on my part I took the sellers word for the fact that it was an OK engine. It was only when I got it home that I found water inside it, seller said it was full of oil about 3 gallons which it was, but the trace sea water was sitting underneath the oil everywhere. Despite its age it looks like a very low hours motor, bores are on std. with very little carbon build up. I am hoping just a clean up and renew worn parts, but if I cant get the pistons moving and out, then i will just part it out, probably get my money back on the marine exhaust manifolds alone.
 
Hello guys, been looking for help for some time and hoping you guys are the answer. I am restoring a 72’ Donzi and I have a Ford 302 Holman Moody into a 270 VP outdrive. I’m trying to figure out the seals and bearings for the PDS and can’t find a single thread or picture for that matter of what I have. I’ve ordered a half dozen bearings, clips and seals and none of it makes sense. I wish I had the old but they are no where to be found. I’m trying to upload photos but it’s not easy
 
lubricate this shaft and slots and let it work. It may take a while, days, but it's better than killing this place fafa slot.I'm sure you have to do what Rick said and you won't regret it! If he said poke then you need to poke!
 
Ricardo said "Keep in mind that the 5.8L can be a replacement for your 5.0L."

I say "since when did a 289 become a five liter."
 
Ricardo said "Keep in mind that the 5.8L can be a replacement for your 5.0L."

I say "since when did a 289 become a five liter."

You are correct..... the 289 would be a 4.7L, the 302 would be just under 5.0L and the 351 is rounded up to a 5.8L


For some reason I was thinking 5.0L back in November of 2014 when this thread was alive.
 
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