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pabiggun300

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I would like to hear thoughts on using sea foam to decarbonize engines , read about filling cylinders with seafoam leaving it soak few days , then running strong mixture any thoughts ? good or bad
 
The outboard is still running on it's gas/oil mix. You're just adding the sea foam through the carb throats.
 
bill_w, that is what I was thinking. on my evinrude 175, I disconnect the fuel line when I am done for the day and run the carbs dry. I have three carbs with large float bowls. the engine will run a while before shutting down. running on sea foam only .....that scares me.
 
Then it's best not to do it. If putting it through the carb throats doesn't help the problem, you have bigger ones.
 
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SeaFoam contains 3 ingredients (naptha, alcohol, and mineral oil), none of which are an aggressive de-carbonizing agent, despite what the manufacturer claims. To properly remove carbon deposits, you need a product containing PEA (polyether amine). 2 of the more common treatments readily available that contain high percentages of PEA are GumOut Regane, and Chevron Techron concentrate. I would suggest you try one of these first.
 
bilge rat jim said:
SeaFoam contains 3 ingredients (naptha, alcohol, and mineral oil), none of which are an aggressive de-carbonizing agent, despite what the manufacturer claims. To properly remove carbon deposits, you need a product containing PEA (polyether amine). 2 of the more common treatments readily available that contain high percentages of PEA are GumOut Regane, and Chevron Techron concentrate. I would suggest you try one of these first.
Click to expand...

Hey Bilge Rat Jim. Great post, I have been trying to find out (off and on for years) what sea foam is made of. (do you have any idea on the percentages. (If so I will mix some up and experiment on a few old lawn mowers or something. )
Question:
Do the GumOut or Chevron products you mentioned contain any ingredients that are harmfull to rubber or neopreme. ?
 
Here's a link to SeaFoams' MSDS, which lists the percentages of ingredients.
http://seafoamsales.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/12/MSDS_seafoam_EN.pdf

As far as I am aware, neither Techron nor Regane have any adverse effects on rubber or neoprene. Both contain naptha and light oils, which are harmless, and PEA is a nitrogen based detergent, which also will not harm rubber or neoprene. I would advise that these products be used as directed on the label.
 
I've used OMC Engine Tuner for years and had really good luck with it. You can even soak carbs in it and it won't hurt plastic parts.
 
Thanks Jim, I will play around with that next summer. I am thinking that the current coleman fuel being sold is a Naptha solution. I will have to research that to make sure. Then I will mix up a small solution, run it in a couple old 4 cycle lawn mowers that I can not stand, (basically cause they are 4 cycle and heavy as hell) . If I mess them up then good excuse to throw them far far away.
 
Bobie and Luchernz said it.
Power Tune or Engine Tuner works the best.
Seafoam in my opinion is a waste of $$$
I put a piston in SF and let it set for 2 days.NOTHING.
I put another piston in PT and let it set 2 days and the carbon just melted away.
Follow directions on the can.
Some cans have a fitting that allows it to be fed into the system as it runs.

Before you do anything do a compression test.
All cylinders should be about the same(with exception on some Force Outboards).
Any more than 5-10# difference means there is a problem.
If my outboards had 150 on 2 cyl and 125 on the 3rd I'd be freaking out and looking for a problem.

Using PT/ ET is a preventive maint. tool.
If you got low comp there is usually a problem that needs to be addressed and that'll be another post.
 
The latest BRP service manuals say no more than 15 PSI between cylinders. The old OMC manuals said the same thing.
 
The #s show everything.
My gauge might read differently than yours. Mine cost $160 in 1986
A cheap gauge "might " read correct, maybe not.
The important thing is the #s should be within a couple of #s of each other.
Like I said before any difference in the readings and I'd be looking for a problem.
My Forces 88/85hp 15# difference would show me a problem was going on.
15# would start to make the motor not start as good.
Any more and they won't turn over as good.
Then they won't start.
I had a 225/Merc. and the comp was 110=115 on all 6
My 88/85s the comp is around #150 on all cyl.
Most manuals don't list an actual comp readings.
 
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