Logo
FULL SITE MENU

1975 135HP evinrude not charging...or is it...

Progator135

Progator135

Regular Contributor
I have my doubts that the charging system is working on my 75 135HP V4. 135589E Ive changed the rectifier and voltage regulator (separate items on this motor) and I still get no increase in voltage to the batteries. (using a multimeter) Even if I rev a little. But..should I? If the voltage regulator is doing its job then would I see an increase? How can I tell if its charging or not. The last time I messed with it - a month or so ago - I recall trying to read the voltage from the rectifier before it goes into the regulator and still no increase when revved. I have a big 900CA truck battery that Ive been using that keeps me on the water all day and it helps that it starts fairly easy. What should I look for? Thanks
 
What voltage do you see on the battery terminals with the motor stopped ?----------What voltage do you see on them at 2000 RPM ??
 
Ill have to go check It out again this evening when I get home. Its been a while since I looked at it. I do recall that it varied only between 12.4 and 12.6 at the battery terminals at any given time. no response with RPM increase/decrease. Didn't think to look at it not running.
 
After running awhile, there should be an increase over non-running. Should go up to around 14V,while running If not, it isn't charging OR you are consuming juice faster than it is producing it (overuse of accessories).
 
That motor did not come with a voltage regulator. Has one been added? Or maybe it has the accessory 12 amp charging system? Either way, running voltage should be at least 14V with a charged battery. Is the fuse at the regulator blown?
 
Its most likely working as that system is 12 amps at WOT and 2000rpm is only 1-3 amps. The 900CA may have a higher internal resistance so you may not see any real charging till engine is above 3500rpm...
 
I agree with all of the above but i would charge that battery with an external charger and make sure it read in the 12.7 range and that it would maintain that level after it was off the charger with no load for a period of time..like overnight...if it don't then have the battery tested or replace it...a battery that size with any kind of internal short is going to play hell with a boat charging system....

if the battery checks out then all you have to do is answer racer's simple questions...also do the 3500 rpm bit as faztbullet suggests..

i do not believe in putting a boat in the water with a half charged battery...especially a battery this size....why put stress on a charging system?...current causes heat...heat is an enemy of a stator and other parts of the system...if the ignition is the only load on the battery then its ok to use it day after day without external charging...but if the boat is pulled and sets for a while then top off the battery(s) before launching...just my opinion...
 
I put an external charger on the before every use. The digital charger is reading in excess of 14V when I remove it. Its juiced up and ready to go before it hits the water. Its never once shown any signs of weakening even after repeatedly starting for other engine maintenance (link&sync, spark tests, etc) Its a brute. As for it not having the VR See this: http://www.marineengine.com/parts/j...rer=Evinrude&section=Cylinder+&+Crankcase #113.. Mine is the 135589E Ive cleaned all the contacts and everything is clean as a pin. The fuses in the wiring are also good. (see parts diagram) It may be this weekend before I get to look at it it...didn't realize after the time change that its dark by the time I get home in the evenings. I appreciate all the input and ideas and will definitely be put to use. So what Im reading is that maybe the battery is so big that its putting out more voltage than the charging system would so there would be no marked increase in voltage as its revved?
 
Last edited:
''So what Im reading is that maybe the battery is so big that its putting out more voltage than the charging system would so there would be no marked increase in voltage as its revved?''

not if the charging system is working correctly..that is not what we said.. if the charging system is working and the battery is good you will see an increase..
 
Okay...FInally got around to taking a look at it...sitting dead the voltage at the battery was 12.4. Started the motor, voltage went up to 12.7 no higher even when I (briefly) revved to 2000RPM. So...started it, then disconnected the battery....while running, no battery hooked up, checked voltage at the battery terminal ends and only read 4V. Then checked voltage at the screw termilals. Terminal 8 - red wire - was at 6V and would increase to 8-9V as I revved. IM sure could've gone higher..but No tach because the battery was disconnected didn't want to go too high. So It seems my motor is putting out half the voltage it should. I gather from the parts diagram that my 135589E is supposed to have a 12Amp system. looked at the stator and according to the # it is the correct one -581680. The # on the flywheel however is in question. 581044. Ive read that that's just a casting #, but that's the only # on it. Stator and flywheel both appear to be in good condition. no melting/cracks/broken wires. What do yall think?
 
What I think is that you probably blew the rectifier when you ran it with the battery disconnected......If it wasn't already blown.
 
I did get that rectifier off a used motor...but it was to fix the same problem. Wasn't charging before...replaced rectifier and no change. Old rectifier had wires broken off(corroded) right at the case. Could it be the wrong rectifier from a 6A system? Or does that matter?
 
I don't see where a tachometer has been mentioned on your engine... I assume you do have one?

If so... and the tachometer is functioning properly, the charging system is operational as the tachometer operates off of the engines charging system.
 
It mattered on the original rectifiers. However, the replacement ones are the same. That is possible because you can use a 12A in a 6A system but not the other way around.
 
joereeves said:
I don't see where a tachometer has been mentioned on your engine... I assume you do have one?

If so... and the tachometer is functioning properly, the charging system is operational as the tachometer operates off of the engines charging system.
Click to expand...
Interesting..My tach went dead when I disconnected the batteries with the engine running. I thought ignition system just read a pulse per revolution... If Im understanding (which definitely may not be the case :confused:) it should still work whether the charging system is pushing out 6v or 12v?..but given that information, seeing on the schematic that the tach comes directly off the rectifier...and what I just said about it going dead when I disconnect the battery - that may have answered my question ...bad rectifier...not sure what the donor engine was that I got that rect. from may have very well been a 6A motor. Or garbage to begin with.
 
Progator135 said:
Interesting..My tach went dead when I disconnected the batteries with the engine running. I thought ignition system just read a pulse per revolution... By the way Joe....that clutch dog is still doggin! Run it every weekend.
Click to expand...

When it comes to dogs.... You Da'man! :)

Yeah... Disconnecting the battery when the engine's running is not a good idea.

The ignition system has nothing to do with the tachometer... that chore falls to the charging system.

You can check out the rectifier as follows:

(Small Rectifier Test)
(J. Reeves)

Remove the rectifier wires from the terminal block. Using a ohm meter, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the rectifier base (ground), then one by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, then the red wire (some rectifiers may also have a fourth yellow/blue wire. If so connect to that also). Now, reverse the ohm meter leads and check those same wires again. You should get a reading in one direction, and none at all in the other direction.

Now, connect the black lead of the ohm meter to the red wire. One by one, connect the red lead of the ohm meter to the yellow, yellow/gray, and if present, the yellow/blue wire. Then reverse the leads, checking the wires again. Once more, you should get a reading in one direction and none in the other.

Note that the reading obtained from the red rectifier wire will be lower then what is obtained from the other wires.

Any deviation from the "Reading", "No Reading" as above indicates a faulty rectifier. Note that a rectifier will not tolerate reverse polarity. Simply touching the battery with the cables in the reverse order or hooking up a battery charger backwards will blow the diodes in the rectifier assy immediately.
 
Thanks Joe and everybody else...after looking at the parts diagram and seeing a different style OEM rectifier for these motors...IM 99% certain that old motor I took it from was original equipment to that motor...meaning that its got to be an old 6A setup. Ill try the test you suggested Joe. but I believe I have it figured out.
 
Back
Top