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AQ280 Prop rotation

PatinIdaho said:
You just coat the teeth lightly, assemble, rotate then take apart and look at the gear mesh pattern. Correct?
Click to expand...

You would coat the "drive" side of several gear teeth, apply friction to the "driven" gear, and then rotate the "drive" gear several revolutions.
Your Volvo Penta work shop manual will cover how to check gear tooth pattern.


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Rick, I was taught using blue marine grease on the driven side and apply pressure with something soft, handle end of a small plastic dead blow hammer, against the cone clutch then rotate. Been working good for many a year. I seem to remember dycum or something like that.
 
Gary, I first learned in the 60s to use white or yellow lead paste. It was excellent at showing tooth contact, but of course it can't be purchased today.
I've found Prussian Blue to be a great replacement.

Yes, I agree...... apply friction the the gear cup for the "driven" gear being checked.
The friction ensures good tooth contact.



Pat, with what ever compound you use, it should allow you to see if the contact is correct by allowing you to see if it's favoring the heal or toe...... and/or if one gear needs to be moved towards or further from the other.


Most good Hypoid Gear contact images will be helpful...... but the OEM workshop manual is best.



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Forum sure dies down in the winter!
Not much to talk about but I did get this.
 

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Can't seem to find the right impeller.
Mine measures 2 long by 2 1/4 wide with 12 vanes and the center has splines
Can some one point me to the proper one?
Numbers on the pump cover are 22300-05 Jabsco
 
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PatinIdaho said:
Forum sure dies down in the winter!
Not much to talk about but I did get this.
Click to expand...
Pat, I'd suggest returning the P kit, and either go with a true electronic ignition, or stay with contact points.

PatinIdaho said:
Can't seem to find the right impeller.
Mine measures 2 long by 2 1/4 wide with 12 vanes and the center has splines
Can some one point me to the proper one?
Numbers on the pump cover are 22300-05 Jabsco
Click to expand...


See post 22 again!

If six cover screws, it is indeed a Jabsco seawater pump.
If the impeller cavity measures 1.990" in depth, it will be the large volume pump.
The large volume Johnson pump impeller looks identical in diameter, blade count and spline configuration, but measures only 1.900" in depth.
If the Johnson 1.900" impeller is used in the Jabsco 1.990" pump body, it will be shy by .090", and it will breach suction.
Parts counter people get this wrong quite often... so be aware!


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Thanks Ricardo!
My plan is to go with a newer style throttle body engine next winter so for now I'm just using this ignition system as I just don't like points and I have a spair module now also.

Was hoping some one could point me to a original 12 vane impeller but maybe there just all gone.
Best I can tell it does measure 1.990 on the inside.
 
RicardoMarine said:
The Johnson F6B-9 is a direct replacement for the old large volume Jabsco.
If raw water cooled, the F5B-9 will work.
Click to expand...
Clarification..... I should have said.......

A complete Johnson F6B-9 seawater pump is a direct replacement for the old large volume Jabsco seawater pump.
$151 at JMS Online Marine Supply (unusually inexpensive.... you may want to verify p/n)
http://www.jmsonline.net/johnson-pu...gle_shopping&gclid=CKat7M27osMCFZCVfgodBbQAsg

If raw water cooled, the F5B-9 seawater pump will work as a Jabsco pump replacement. This pump uses the very common 1027 impeller.
Occasionally on sale for around $150.



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Thought that is what you were getting at.
Think I'm just going to stick with a impeller for now and get a new complete water pump sometime this coming summer.
I still need a bunch of stuff so saving a little money now will help.
 
Pat, if possible, take the Jabsco pump with you and get a perfect match.
When installed in the pump body, the new impeller should sit proud by .010" or so.
 
Well I'm ordering one on line. No place around here really to get one that does not severely over charge.
I was quoted $90 for it here!
 
Ricardo. What is the bearing number for the rear PDS? Can't seem to find a real clear answer using the search :(
Also after you get the snap rings out how hard is it to pull the bearing out?. I would think pulling it out of the housing and shaft at the same time can be a real PITA!

Also as a refresher It is a 290 outdrive with a GM 305 AQ225D
 
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PatinIdaho said:
Ricardo.
1..... What is the bearing number for the rear PDS?
Can't seem to find a real clear answer using the search :(

2.... Also after you get the snap rings out how hard is it to pull the bearing out?. I would think pulling it out of the housing and shaft at the same time can be a real PITA!

Also as a refresher It is a 290 outdrive with a GM 305 AQ225D
Click to expand...

1..... The rear or AFT PDS bearing is a 6206 industry standard bearing.... open.
The FWD PDS bearing is a 6007 industry standard bearing..... open.
Seals are both 35x672x7mm in a TCM or Timken brand.
(stake or glue FWD seal in position...... AFT seal installs in the non-conventional direction)

2.... Pat, unfortunately the 225D will be using the Red 1 pc flywheel cover, of which with the GM V-8 engine is a double bearing PDS.
The engine must be removed in order to access the FWD 6007 PDS bearing.
Furthermore, we need access to this area in order to drive the PDS in the AFT direction for complete removal once the AFT snap rings have been removed.

Keep in mind that a PDS bearing failure will result in a very expensive repair!

I know..... this is NOT what you wanted to hear!!!!!!:(


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Im just not up to taking the engine out this year.
I was thinking i could change the aft pds bearing just because i have the outdrive off. More of a , Because its already apart so why not way of thinking but sometimes i guess its just best to leave well enough alone:rolleyes:.
Im sure there all good. There were no funny noises, vibrations,
I was actually surprised at how quiet and smooth it runs and feels!:)
I almost have all the new parts i need. Just need new Exhaust bellows, Drive shaft bellows, Exhaust Flapper with the two little plates and a New or good used 15X17 LH prop.
I still need to reseal the lower unit though
The last thing ill be getting is new gauges. I can find the set i want for under $160 http://www.seastarsolutions.com/products/instrumentation/instrumentation/eclipse/
 
Pat, with the transmission still removed, pull the AFT PDS seal out of your way!
Have a helper apply a few pumps of new grease to the 12:00 O'clock position Flywheel Cover grease port.
NOTE: keep track of how many gun pumps were required until you saw grease leave the ball cage!
 excessive pumps would indicate 1 of 2 things:
1... the grease cavity may have never been "pre-filled".
2... the FWD seal has become dislodged from the PDS bore.

If you are able to see grease being pushed through and out of the 6206 ball cage, carefully collect the first bit of old grease.
Look for signs or rust, metallic debris, etc in this old grease.

If OK... pull seawater pump impeller (needs to be removed for the winter anyway).
Start engine and while at idle speed, give the grease port several more pumps of new grease.
You can do this in about 10 seconds or so, and will not cause any damage to any exhaust components.


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Sorry it took so long to get back to ya.
I have a new seal so no problem pulling the old one.
I forgot but i also need to get a grease hose to replace the plug.
When i look at it though i see plenty of grease between the seal and bearing so i suppose it was greased at some point but Ill be sure to do as you suggest though.
Can't really get into it yet. Just got more snow today :( and what was there was almost gone. Yes it's outside. Has a water proof cover on it and a tarp over that. I also keep the snow cleaned off it.
I did untarp 1 corner and climbed into it two weekends ago and it was totally dry inside with no spiders!
 
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PatinIdaho said:
Sorry it took so long to get back to ya.
I have a new seal so no problem pulling the old one.

I forgot but i also need to get a grease hose to replace the plug.
Pat, some of these grease ports are 1/8" tapered pipe thread. The 18" grease gun extension hose will thread right into these.

However, some were 3/8" NC machine threads with a special cup style grease fitting.
You can run a 1/8" tapered pipe thread tap directly into the machine threads, and chase them out into 1/8" TP.
It won't make perfect 1/8" TP threads, but for this purpose, it works well enough.
(been there/done that many times)

There will be some aluminum debris from it that will need to be cleaned out.
Click to expand...
 
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PatinIdaho said:
What is "Bellows Adhesive" Im thinking some kind of contact cement?
Click to expand...

The AQ series bellows have a sealing bead that rests in a sealing grove at both ends. No adhesive is necessary if the groves are nice and clean.
However, it can be used if you prefer.

Best to use the OEM Euro style band clamps.


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Started putting my out drive back on and i ran into this.
I have the rear pds area pretty well cleaned up and i could be wrong but i think the seal is backwards and there is no snap ring?
I can look at a diagram but there not clear enough to see for sure.
I have a new seal and i assume the spring side of the seal should be out and held in with a snap ring?
Also if it does need a snap ring do you know what size?
Hate to order one and be held up for a week waiting
 

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PatinIdaho said:
Started putting my out drive back on and i ran into this.
I have the rear pds area pretty well cleaned up and i could be wrong but i think the seal is backwards and there is no snap ring?
I can look at a diagram but there not clear enough to see for sure.
I have a new seal and i assume the spring side of the seal should be out and held in with a snap ring?
Also if it does need a snap ring do you know what size?
Hate to order one and be held up for a week waiting
Click to expand...

Yes... your AFT PDS seal is installed backwards.
The first deep-set snap ring is to retain the AFT PDS bearing.
The second snap is there to "stop" the seal, not to retain it.


Rather than trying to remove and save the seal, simply drill a small hole in the metal body outside of the lip area.
This will allow any over-grease pressure/quantity from becoming trapped within the grease cavity and putting force against the FWD seal.
IOW.... this will prevent the FWD seal from becoming dislodged from it's bore.

Technically this is not a water seal.... it's there to hold back the PDS bearing grease...... but only to a point.

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Thanks Ricardo.
I already have the old seal out. Going out right now to put the new seal in and put the transmission back on :)
I do fear the front seal is pushed out though. I put 50 pumps of grease in it at the grease fitting on top of the bellhousing and never got any out the back with the transmission off :(
I did pack the rear pds with fresh grease as best i could. I will check it and re pack it a couple times through out the summer as there is just no way to fix it properly right now until next fall when i can remove the engine and replace with a rebuilt 350.
 
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PatinIdaho said:
Thanks Ricardo.
I do fear the front seal is pushed out though. I put 50 pumps of grease in it at the grease fitting on top of the bellhousing and never got any out the back with the transmission off :(
Click to expand...

Pat, it's possible that the last person in there (for bearing replacement) did not pre-fill the grease cavity.
If so, that may explain why you were able to give the flywheel cover grease fitting 50 pumps, yet not see any grease exit the AFT 6206 bearing.
If so, the FWD seal may still be in place!


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