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Volvo AQ130

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dropbear68

Contributing Member
Hi Guys, I have a Volvo AQ130 in my boat, engine rebuilt 2 seasons ago with little use, some issues, my intake manifold looks as though it originally had 2 barrel down draft of some description this has been removed and someone has modified a local aussie holden 6 cyl single bbl down draft carby onto it, I dislike it immensely, I have a manifold with twin Stromberg su carbys, can I use this?, don't want to use a holley if I can get away with it. Lastly I run an old AQ100 leg are rebuild parts available for these still?
 
The AQ130 is an older push rod engine. If recently rebuilt, it may be OK.

I would not use the 100 drive.
I'd find a complete 250 or 270 drive (in the 2.15:1 ratio) and a transom shield, and would retro-fit this to your hull.


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Thank Rick,
the 100 leg is what I have I cant afford to replace it with another leg just yet so Ill use this old leg until I can retro it, did a heap of work to the motor today once I have fitted the fitting into the pump intake Ill hook up the garden hose and run it up and see how it runs, I was looking under the hull today for the water intake all I can think of is it picks up through the exhaust outlet which is the factory Volvo penta part it has a strainer on one side so must be this yes?
 
If may be tough to find certain parts for this drive.... such as the univeral shaft assembly for the 100, and possibly bellows.
The 100B uses a more conventional universal drive shaft with conventional bearing crosses.


Here's a link to the Aquamatic 100 and 100B stern drive Work Shop manual.
Put your cursor at the edge of a page, click, and it will flip to the next page... or use the "go-to-page" option.


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dropbear68 said:
how do I tell the 100 from the 100b rick, my boat is a 1975 model
Click to expand...

First off.... I believe that by 1975, the 100 drive would have no longer been available.
Are you certain that this is a 100 drive and not a 200 or 250 drive?


The Aquamatic 100 uses that weird univeral shaft system, whereas the Aquamatic 100B uses a more conventional universal shaft using a standard bearing cross (aka u-joint, as the younger guys refer to).

Are you able to post a few pictures of this drive. If I can see photos, I can just about tell you which drive you have.

Meanwhile.... here's a 100.
Note the universal drive shaft.

images



Here's the 100B.
Note the more conventional drive shaft using bearing crosses.

images



Here's a 200 drive.


images


Here's a 250 drive.

images



I have to be honest here....... if you do have a 100, and if this 100 requires much to ready it for the water, you'd be better off cutting your losses now, and find a 250 or later system.

Sometimes we can pick up a small trailered donor boat with a bad 4 cylinder engine or rotten cores, etc, for next to nothing.

When these are trailered sized boats, seldom are the drives bad or corroded, and require not much more than bellows, water neck fitting, bearing crosses, etc.



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Just to satisfy my curiosity, I did a quick search for 1975 Volvo Penta powered boats.
I found this 1975 Galaxy boat with a 270 drive. I'm pretty sure that this 1975 Galaxy could have also been available with the 250 drive.
I can tell that this one is a 270 due to the absence of the oil fill port in the Intermediate housing.

However, this transom shield is a later 280 style... so it may have been a 250 shield replaced with a 280 shield.

99913038_6thumb_550x410.jpg


Here's a 1975 Glastron listed with the original Volvo Penta 280.
I'm thinking that this is too early for the 280, and that it was likely originally a 270.

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Mine I would say is the 100 or the B , remember Im in Australia, Im sure the motor and leg in my boat is the original setup when it was sold new, our models here can vary to USA models etc, Ive just painted the leg andits wet but when It dries Im going to pull the dipstick from the top of the drive and see if its diff oil or engine oil, if its the heavy diff oil its a 100 if its thinner engine oil its a B that's not to say some wanker has drained it and put the thinner oil in it, they do **** like that in the back yards, Ill keep my eyes out for a replacement later leg these older style legs aren't that common here and your still paying 1500 bux just for the upper gearbox second hand off the leg so a complete second hand leg would cost maybe 3 or 4 thousand and that too me is prohibitive. Cheers and thanks mate.
 

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If this pic worked this is the motor in my boat, as I said earlier carby is non standard its a retro job, local car carby fitted to an adaptor plate but I have the twin SU Carby manifold and carbys
 

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dropbear68 said:
If this pic this is the motor in my boat, as I said earlier carby is non standard its a retro job, local car carby fitted to an adaptor plate but I have the twin SU Carby manifold and carbys
Click to expand...

Using an automotive carb in a boat is dangerous and here in the USA, illegal as well.
 
There not illegal here to use a car carby, there are after market marine type carbys around replacing the carby is high on my list of things to do, I will hunt around for the right carby to use on it
 
dropbear68 said:
There not illegal here to use a car carby, there are after market marine type carbys around replacing the carby is high on my list of things to do, I will hunt around for the right carby to use on it
Click to expand...
While the automotive carburetor may not be illegal for you, the fuel metering is very likely incorrect for your Marine engine.
A lean condition at the wrong rpm could lead to engine damage!


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Thanks Rick, I have removed the dipstick and for all intensive purposes Id say its the 100B, its not standard old stinky diff oil in there and its clean and no signs of water in the oil, next on the to do list is to remove the top half of the leg and do the bellows and find out once and for all the model of the drive, the early 100 looks like it uses a constant velocity joint?
Why are early legs so disliked? age?parts?
 
One thing that scares me is the water intake hose, its a bit of a chore to get to it but I think well worthwhile replacing it, Ill have to remove the big heavy cast iron pipe from the engine, good excuse to replace the small link hose and clamps and I want to strip the oil cooler and make sure its all clean and has new seals, I have to fit a shut off valve and a hose fitting so I can run fresh water from the garden hose to it and run it at home, the boat is rising 40 years old and I think its madness to not replace everything that can aid reliability while I have it in pieces
 
We called the driveline on the AQ100 the Zepher Joint. I don't know why, it's just what I learned it as but that was 35 years ago. Why would you need to take any manifold off to replace the inside water hose?
 
Not the manifold Gary its a big cast iron pipe that runs under the motor and takes the engine water out through the transom , my engine doesn't run the water pump you know off on these engines, aussie engines must be different to other countrys where they were sold, mine uses a bronze bodied pump that is belt driven of the engine, the timing cover is same as the auto type engine, the water enters the motor through the front of the oil cooler behind the filter, does what it does and is shot out this big cast pipe, there is a fitting at the back of the intake manifold that houses the temp gauge sender this has a brass tail fitting and a rubber pipe that runs to a skin fitting on the transom, its a telltale to let you know the pump is working.
 
Not the manifold Gary its a big cast iron pipe that runs under the motor and takes the engine water out through the transom , my engine doesn't run the water pump you know off on these engines, aussie engines must be different to other countrys where they were sold, mine uses a bronze bodied pump that is belt driven of the engine, the timing cover is same as the auto type engine, the water enters the motor through the front of the oil cooler behind the filter, does what it does and is shot out this big cast pipe, there is a fitting at the back of the intake manifold that houses the temp gauge sender this has a brass tail fitting and a rubber pipe that runs to a skin fitting on the transom, its a telltale to let you know the pump is working.
 
Was reading some older posts on the 130 engine, my engine does not have an tag riveted to it with Volvo Penta on it, underneath number one cylinder is a casting B20, so are the Penta blocks and the standard car blocks the same casting with just the Penta tag fitted to the marine engine? are they the same oil filter location starboard side of engine at the rear under the manifold? my boat was new in 75, the sterndrive confuses me, when would the 100B have stopped being made, my boat has a stern drive transom and looking at the installation its original and never been stuffed with, I have no idea if the engine is even the original motor boat was sold with, if the engine has been reconditioned at some stage of its life or maybe more then once it was a coastal boat they tend to be used more then inland boats, a car block may have been substituted, I have another engine for mine which I pulled out of a Volvo car, only difference I can see is the distributor points.
 
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dropbear68 said:
Was reading some older posts on the 130 engine, my engine does not have an tag riveted to it with Volvo Penta on it, underneath number one cylinder is a casting B20, so are the Penta blocks and the standard car blocks the same casting with just the Penta tag fitted to the marine engine?
This engine was originally built for Volvo autos. Volvo Penta maranized this engine for Marine use.
Some External and Internal components have been changed or modified to suit Marine requirements.

are they the same oil filter location starboard side of engine at the rear under the manifold?
Yes!

my boat was new in 75,
We touched on this earlier.
Had this been a US built boat in 1975, the AQ130 and 100 stern drive would not have been used.

I have another engine for mine which I pulled out of a Volvo car, only difference I can see is the distributor points.
The original Marine version had the mechanical contact point ignition. If yours is now electronic triggering, someone has changed it.
Click to expand...
 
Its a standard points and condenser dizzy, the one in my spare engine is the same basically, couple minor differences namely in the points and condenser but readily available parts.
 
My first Volvo power boat had the combo water inlet/exhaust outlet thingy on the outside of the transom. I replaced it with a thru hull "high speed" scoop and internal strainer ( with valves for fresh water flushing). I left the exhaust outlet terminated at the transom without the down hose and it was a bit noisy. Not all that much more while cruising than the stock setup.
 
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