Water is 1979 Mercruiser 260 Distributor

Is it normal for water to condense on the inside of a 1979 Mercruiser 269 distributor.

It mostly condenses on the inside top but drips all over the rotor and the screws and condensor inside.

Is there a way to prevent that?

Silicone Gel maybe"?

There should be a gasket at the base of the cap. it seals the cap to the base.

There is also a brass 90 degree tube sticking out of the cap to allow airflow.

is water bieng dripped on or spinning off the drive shaft all over the distributor?

Judging by the corrosion/calcification on the screws, condensor and other components at the base of the dirstributor, that is in fact what is happening. The water is condensition on the roof and dripping down on the rotor and then getting spun all over when it turns. I now check the distributor and dry it up every time I start it. When I first opened it, after a really humid rainy day, there was water pooled up on the rotor and all over the inside of the cap dome. The gasket is cracked and corroded as well.

kghost said:

There should be a gasket at the base of the cap. it seals the cap to the base.

There is also a brass 90 degree tube sticking out of the cap to allow airflow.

is water bieng dripped on or spinning off the drive shaft all over the distributor?

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Is your engine cover subject to moisture by chance... and is it leaking into/onto the engine?
If so.... fix this problem.

As a long shot here.... crankcase gasses may be finding their way up and around the aged and possibly worn distributor shaft and bushings, causing warm moisture within this area, of which then condenses.
If that's the case, I'm not sure that sealing this area will prevent it.


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I did not realize this was a second post from him, He has a point ignition and a standard point distributor cap, No vent No window.

And if the engine compartment is exposed to a lot of moisture and or water is dripping on the distributor then this will cause a lot of moisture to biuld up inside the cap. Very common on the old point systems.......

Sorry guys. THought the two issues were unrelated and did two separate posts. See my other post "1979 GM V8 350 Timing Marks Must be Off"
for some of the other RELATED problems I've been experiencing. The cap itself is not vented but there are some screened vents on the neck thing below the distributor base.

So you guys think I should replace the spring/weight advancer things in the distributor and that may make my motor run OK at 8 BTDC?
[h=2][/h]

Would it make sense to try to upgrade my mechanical distributor to a Thunderbolt. It sounds really cool! Would it be more resistant to water corrosion?

(Sorry, I'm posting to post threads now...)

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Abrego said:

Sorry guys. THought the two issues were unrelated and did two separate posts. See my other post "1979 GM V8 350 Timing Marks Must be Off"
Not an issue. These are two topics, so two threads is not uncommon.


for some of the other RELATED problems I've been experiencing. The cap itself is not vented but there are some screened vents on the neck thing below the distributor base.
Very common.

So you guys think I should replace the spring/weight advancer things in the distributor and that may make my motor run OK at 8 BTDC?
IMO..... DO NOT replace the flyweight return springs without the aid of a Distributor Machine and a Tech who knows how to operate it.
Gasoline Marine Engine ignition advance is far too critical to mess with when/if we are not well trained nor experienced.

If you have this done, the Tech will require your OEM ignition advance curve for your engine.
NOT AUTOMOTIVE specs!

Also, keep in mind that BASE advance is BASE advance ONLY..... and all day long.
We fire up on BASE, and we idle on BASE.

The important part of ignition advance is the Progressive and Total Advance and at the RPM as per OEM specs.
BASE advance gone bad may not damage a Marine engine, per 'se .... but the wrong or excessive Progressive and/or TA will damage a Marine engine.

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Abrego said:

Would it make sense to try to upgrade my mechanical distributor to a Thunderbolt. It sounds really cool!
That is entirely up to you.
The TB is EST... electronic spark timing. This means that ALL of progressive advance is turned over to electronics and the algorithm of the electronic module.
For me... NO! I'll stay with the mechanical for this particular engine. Your call.

Would it be more resistant to water corrosion?
First see where the water is entering. Is it via the engine hatch cover, or ____?

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