94 200hp johnson venom not charging

please help

The tach works off of the charging system and if that's not working the tach won't work. Better check out your charging system.

the tach does not have to be hooked up for the charging system to work but the charging system has to work for the tach to work....a fully charged good battery should read 12.7 before you start the motor..when the motor is started and given a couple minutes to recover from the draw to start the motor it should read higher than that and reach 14.8 volts on a regulated charging system...

thanks so I need to order the correct tach and a rectifier

Check out the charging system first as you could have a bad stator. " test, don't guess".

will do thanks

can you test a rectifier by ohm ing the wires and what that value might be or is there a better way thanks

Go to cdielectronics.com. They have good trouble shooting procedures.

ok starting to get frustrated .......lol the cdi trouble shooting site was awesome big help after doing the testing mention there found I had a bad rectifier and stator to the tune of about 700 dollars for both after installing fire the engine up let run a while can not get but 11.8 volts when running engine off 11.8 also engine starts fine? now on the cdi site it says don't use an AGM battery because of thin plates I do have a MARINE AGM OPTIMA BATTERY blue top I have it on charge tonight what gives even with the low voltage I would think after cranking and even running rpms to 1500 for a min voltage would come up? replace battery ?

lets get back to basics for a bit....is the boat new to you?..did the battery charge when running before you replaced the dash?...did you change any wiring under the cowl when changing the dash or at any other time?what does the battery read after charging with an external charger?
Set your meter on the 20 volt dc scale...hook the negative lead to the negative post on the battery or a good ground on the head of the engine..touch the positive lead to the positive post of the battery and take a reading...then move the positive meter lead to the output terminal of the regulator...it should read the same as the positive post on the battery(12.7 volts)...if it does then start the engine and run about 2k rpm in neutral...it will take 30 seconds or so but the meter should then read more than the battery output...if it dont then we are back to testing the regulator and the stator.....i would start by just letting the engine continue to run...remove the meter leads from the battery and regulator output...flip the meter to ac and see if you get a reading between the two leads coming from the stator... trouble shoot from there as logic dictates...
when you take the initial reading to compare the battery post post to the regulator output terminal you are basically checking continuity....if they dont read the same fix that first..that should be hard wiring under the cowl in the 12v net...
get back to us before you spend any more money on parts...trouble shooting this is the way to go..

ok here is what ive found done all battery post to engine gound and vise versa continuity test as instructed and i had not changed any wireing under cowl when installing new dash was preety much a plug and play deal thanks for the input by the way .So all that checks fine so gone back to retest stator and rectifier now i dont have a DVA tester like cdi says to use but before i had no ac voltage coming from stator after replacing i do now but still no charging some thing i done on my own was discontect the red rectifer wire took my meter and hooked to engine ground and that wire with engine running rectifier is putting out .63 i would think this should be somwhere around 2 volts hence 12volts on battery and 14 when engin running and charging do i have a bad new rectifier ? by the way i did replace battery with new regular flooded marine battery like recommeded i read on cdi website using an AGM for extended time will void warranty on stator and rectifier

with the red rectifier output lead hooked up how much do you read when motor not running ?this reading should be taken (with every thing hooked up normal) from the rectifier output to ground...if you read battery output then start engine and take another reading..
how much ac voltage is coming out of the stator if you measure across the two output wires hooked to the regulator?with everything hooked up as in normal operation...

the red wire on my engine comes from the rectifier and goes to the starter solenoid were the main hot wire is hooked up measuring there to engine ground I have 12.6 volts once I start engine voltage stays the same 12.6 coming out of stator a/c voltage with no DVA just straight on the flipping to I think the 20 a/c mark on meter if not mistaken was like 3.5 will double check that in morning because it is at my jobsite

by the way I have also installed a new tach it is working properly still no charging

if that 3.5 volts ac on the stator output was taken with everything hooked up and the motor running at 2k rpm then it is too low..i would expect it to be in the 20-25 volt range at a minimum....

i am curious on what the grey wire reads feeding the tach with the motor running is..both ac and dc...

i get the impression you are reading regulator output at the post on the starter....do you have a terminal block right at the regulator output?..if not i would recommend that you skin the output wire insulation back on the wire coming out of the regulator and get a reading there...i say this because you have already replaced a lot of parts and we dont want to put more parts in until we eliminate a couple things such as an open red wire going to the starter solenoid post or a bad connection on the post itself...a corroded or loose connection in the lug at the wires end where it hooks to the post is a possibility also....you are close to the problem solution so dont let anything escape you...

you probably already know this but i am going to say it anyway..a battery puts out what is called a straight line dc voltage....no ripple so a meter will read no ac voltage...a regulator does not filter the ac coming from the stator down to a straight line...it will have so much dc voltage and then a ripple on top...these pulses in the ripple drive the tach...this ripple is measurable if you flip to ac on your meter...for your tach to be working there has to be at least some regulator output to generate those pulses..thats the reason i asked what the reading are on the wire feeding the tach......do not hesitate to skin some insulation back to get these readings....a good tech does the same thing and then re insulates them later...

just curious if the magnets in the flywheel being mis aligned would create this low voltage I reglued them once before but just preety much spaced them evenly and glued it ? any thing special to do there or does that sound fine

i dont know....but if you replaced the stator and the output is low i would suspect maybe a problem there...maybe someone with experience in this area can step in...i go know that you can destroy a magnet with heavy blows though..like hitting them with a hammer...did they come loose and get banged around while the motor was running?

did you verify the low voltage coming from the stator?

is this engine new to you..did it ever charge correctly?

ok measuring a/c with NO peak voltage or(DVA) at 2k rpms is 5.7 on the two yellow wires from stator on the gray wire a/c is up and down from2.5-2.7 or so voltage d/c is reading up and down from .14 to .35 also measuring voltage on the red wire from rectifier at the rectifier is the same as battery voltage all of this done while engine running

in regards to my previous post found out that 5 volts ac converts to about 23 volts dva ac which should be within spec according to cdi trouble shooter

The ac reading is low coming from the stator...it should read above 16 volts ac at idle and increase with the rpm's...you do not need a dva adapter reading..this is with a normal multi meter reading ac voltage....

you are getting just enough through the regulator to operate the tach....