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Alpha 1 gen one shift question

Shark Attack

New member
Thank you for taking a min to read my post. I have an 1987 470 with a A1G1 out drive.
I replaced all the bellows and I am hooking up my shift cable. I can not get reverse to engage 100%

My question is
with the cable off at the engine, if I pull the cable all the way out till it stops, Shouldn't the out drive be fully engaged in reverse? Mine does not.

Im having issue typing, Bad keyboard I think be back shrtly

Yes 6" EXATLY and also tried 5 15/16
 
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manually pulling the cable all the way out should get you into full reverse. If not, you have to pull the drive to determine where the problem is
 
That's NOT the answer I wanted to hear. But it is what it is I guess. Damn thing, I can reach under, push on the shift thingy control rod thingy in the out drive, can't even feel it move and it engages in reverse. Sooooo close
 
I think I know what happened. when I put the outdrive back on, it moved out of fwd gear and pressure was put on the down rod, pushrod thingy. I bet the collar at the top spun ever so slightly. This forum does not like internet explorer, does it? Makes m keyboard act funny and skp leter.
 
you need to use firefox to type correctly. You going to need a manual to speak the mechanical language . I dont know what this means "
down rod, pushrod thingy" The drive did not have to be split to install it.
 
fixed. Used my 3# universal adjustment tool. I have a manual somewhere.

Here was the quick fix and what I feel happened, for those who maybe have the same issue.

If you had your drive off and you did any research at all, you know you are to put the unit in forward gear before pulling off the drive and when putting the drive back on the unit, you need to make sure the outdrive unit stays in forward gear to allow the shift coupler to line up and slide together. If you have done one you already know this frustration of trying to wrestle the drive, not bump the prop becasue that will knock it into neutral, at the same time making sure your shift cable is sliding in to the upper housing correctly.

Well my drive was a real PITA this time, it simply did not want to go the last 1.5" into the transom. In wrestling it at some point I must have pumped the prop and knocked it into neutral. After 3 attempts taking the unit on and off, ruining 2 gaskets, you can only imagine my irritation and I was getting rammy. When the drive finally did decide it had messed with me enough and realized I wasn't going to give up, and it actually went the rest of the way in the transom, becasue the drive was in neutral the coupling didn't line up and pressure was put in the coupling. At the top of the coupling is a set screw that holds the arm that fits into your shift cable. I feel the shaft in this coupling moved ever so slightly clockwise, Thus causing the cable to hit its end point before fully engaging into reverse.

So I took my 3# universal adjustment tool and gave it an adjustment. Works just fine now... I knew it would see it my way.

Boat Dr. thanks for the FF heads up. and your time to look at my thread
 
Thank you for your help. My fix has seemed to work out. I ran the unit for two hours last night is 2.5' waves. I also have it a hefty workout at the dock trying to land in strong winds. Woo hoo! one in a row.. go me.
t seriously. Thank you for the help? you are a dealer or pats supplier pass me your info. Ill return the favor
 
When replacing a shift cable you need a special 9/16" six pont socket about 4 inches long. Or a drilled out 3/8" extention drilled out so the end of the shift cable plastic end will fit thru it when using a standard socket length.
When tightening the 9/16" hex bronze shift cable (pipe threaded fitting) into the bell housing you must tighten it almost all the way tight to the housing, no more than 1/16" between nut and housing.

When you run the inner core through the aluminium cable end (the part the wheeled shift arm fits into) there is a set screw that you tighten so there is almost no end play and the aluminum end will rotate freely (very important). Then safety wire the set screw with the included stainlees steel safety wire.

The wheeled shift arm must rotate easily!! very minimun friction. The wheel must spin feely and NOT wobble at all.

The vertical shaft the wheel attaches to must also spin somewhat freely (there are bushings and seals so some friction will be present)
At the bottom of the vertical shat is a U shaped end, This U must be tight the the shift arm top (bronze) on the outdrive. If too much slop is present it will cause bad shifting (not getting into gear without over mover the shift handle or not getting into gear at all) Also the bronze shift arm in the outdrive the top must be sharp and square and not rounded, this will also cause ****ing issues.

If you need the shaift cable adjustemt I can post that also...
 
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