Dt140 starting/drive ability problem

A friend of mine brings me his boat the other day to see if I can fix it but I'm stumped. He had it at a shop and they thought it was the stator but I don't know how you would test it. He says the boat won't propel itself very well in the water. So when I got it I couldn't get it to fire and after I came back an hr later to try it it started right up no prob which didn't make since. Now I tried to start it again today and same thing it won't fire. It has spark and gas but won't fire. Any ideas?

Anyone???

Does my question not make since or what? 56 views and not even a single idea

Ok we will take this one step at a time since there has been 110 views no with out a reply.
How do you test the stator to see if its bad??

Hey .. I don't know what it is with this forum these days. About a year ago I got a lot of really excellent help here with my DT200 .. but the fellow that helped me was registered as a guest, and I haven't seem him back in a long time. You might have seen my thread recently, where I'm the most (and maybe only) participant in my own thread

Anyway, it sounds like you might not have the shop manual for your motor .. I would definitely recommend getting an electronic copy of one .. it will have all the tolerances, measurements, specifications for all the parts of the motor. It will probably also have a procedure for testing the stator.

Maybe you could describe a little more about the problem and what all you've already tested or done so we can help more. The initial description of "it won't propel itself very well" sounds like a spun hub maybe or a clogged carb" but the "won't turn over at first but does after an hour" could be something different.

Chris

chackett said:

Hey .. I don't know what it is with this forum these days. About a year ago I got a lot of really excellent help here with my DT200 .. but the fellow that helped me was registered as a guest, and I haven't seem him back in a long time. You might have seen my thread recently, where I'm the most (and maybe only) participant in my own thread

Anyway, it sounds like you might not have the shop manual for your motor .. I would definitely recommend getting an electronic copy of one .. it will have all the tolerances, measurements, specifications for all the parts of the motor. It will probably also have a procedure for testing the stator.

Maybe you could describe a little more about the problem and what all you've already tested or done so we can help more. The initial description of "it won't propel itself very well" sounds like a spun hub maybe or a clogged carb" but the "won't turn over at first but does after an hour" could be something different.

Chris

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I haven't tested much at all on his boat cuz I'm not sure what to test. It has spark and fuel i know that cuz I have had it running but the next time I went to work on it I couldn't get it to fire up. It will crank all day long but won't fire which doesn't make since. Before he brought it to me he said it would start but when he had it on the water it didn't have any power I don't think its a spun hub. The boat shop he took it to told him the stator was bad so that's what I want to know how to test cuz that could be my starting problem too.

Thanks for your reply and I agree with you that this forum use to be a lot better than it is now.

I'm new here but maybe not many folks are responding because you haven't said what kind of engine it is. Or maybe I missed it. Outboard? Inboard? Year? ser. # etc. ...just a suggestion.

I know my old merc 800('78 2-stroke outboard) had a similar problem that took me FAR to long to solve. It would run great on all cylinders off the dock. Once it was warmed up and we would stop, it would only run on 2cyl until it cooled off again. Sometimes I could work through it gradually and get it going again if the cowling was off. Thought it was vapor lock. Turned out the switch box was going bad and when it was cool(and being tested at home or initially run from the dock) it worked great. Once it was warm it must have expanded enough to break an internal connection and 2cyl wouldn't fire ...until it cooled down, contracted enough to make contact again, and worked. ...at least that's my explanation. Once I replaced switch box, engine has been running great since and my kids and I are catching fish again.

Just a far-out guess here(since I'm not sure what type engine we are talking about) ...could the engine not fire when sitting in the sun but when you came back later, and it was in the shade, it was fine? maybe there is some less obvious variable at work here. Vapor lock from heat, switch box(like my prob), dew on a loose battery post not allowing connection to the starter until things dry out...

...have you checked compression on all cylinders?

NEK - Welcome! .. since you're new you may not have noticed that this is the Suzuki Outboard forum .. and in the subject, he mentioned it's a DT140, but thanks for chiming in with some ideas! That's a really unique issue you had there .. never heard of anything like that before.

My shop manual gives some info on checking the pulser coils, the charging coils and the gear counting coil .. maybe you can test things things? Here are the relevant steps in the shop manua (cut and paste is a little buggy, but I think you can figure it outl:

DT115 and DT140
1 . The four pulser coils, battery charging coil, condenser charging coil and gear counting coil are located, underneath the flywheel, mounted on the stator base,.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
4. Disconnect the pulser coil wires which are located inside the electrical
junction box.
5. Connect the digital multi meter to the pulser coil leads as fol l ows:
• No.1 : Connect the tester red lead between the red/green wire and the
black ground wire
• No.2: Connect the tester red lead between the white/black wire and
black ground wire
• No.3: Connect the tester red lead between the red/white wire and the
black ground wire
• No.4: Connect the tester red lead between the white/green wire and the
black ground wire. Resistance should read between 1 70-250 ohms.
6. On the battery charging coils, measure the resistance on No. 1
between the yellow/red and yellow/red wires and on No.2 between the red
and yellow wires. Resistance should measure between 0.1-0.3 ohms.
7. On the condenser charging coils, measure the resistance on No.1
between the black/red and green wires and on No.2 between black/red and
brown wires. Resistance should measure between 1 70-250 ohms.
8. On the gear counting coil, measure the resistance between the
orange/green and black wires. The resistance should measure between
1 70-250 ohms.
. 9. If the resistance reading is not within specification, replace the faulty
coil.


Good luck!
Chris

I guess the owner of the boat got a bill for diagnosing and on the bill it said bad stator and ignition box. I will see if I can get it fix in a month or 2 from now since I'm busy with harvest