Prop change from LH to RH on Volvo 280 drive attached to 28ft boat

I have been trying to locate a 16x15LH prop for my boat but could not find anything south of $400. I found a 16x15RH prop for about half that and since it is on a 280 outdrive technically it shouldn't matter. My question is to somebody who actually understands the real world and not a sales pitch to sell a prop. The drive was serviced 2 seasons ago by a V/P veteran mechanic and he changed anything that needed to be done. Is there anything I should look for when switching to a RH prop to prevent a malfunction or breakdown? The reason I am changing props is I have a 15x17 prop on now that will barely get the boat on plane and will only get me about 4000-4100rpm at WOT. Since we only use the boat when loaded to go for a weekend I was told the larger diameter prop would help my boat since it is a heavier boat for the motor/drive combo. Any info would be great. Thanks

The AQ series single propeller drive is capable of either rotation propeller.

When we drive a LH prop, we place a upward load on the transmission vertical shaft. This is checked by a brass split ring keeper at the lower area of the vertical shaft.



When these fail..... damage is severe.
Your recent service should have included a new brass split ring keeper. This makes using a LH prop safe.

When we drive a RH prop, we place a downward load on the transmission vertical shaft. This is checked by the threaded nut at the top of the vertical shaft. I seldom (if any) see any issues.
(shown at far left)



Remove the rear cover.
You'll see the vertical linkage on the Stbd side that connects the eccentric piston to the gear yoke.





Pull the cotter pin from the clevis pin and from the lower area where it connects to the gear yoke.
(you may need to be in either FWD or REV in order to remove the clevis pin)

Move this linkage piece to the Port side of the eccentric piston and gear yoke.

With the shift lever in absolute neutral, and with the eccentric piston fully into the neutral detents, now adjust the length of the vertical linkage as to fit easily and with no other movements required.

Now you're ready to use the RH prop.


You will need to adjust the torque tab/trim fin in order to counter prop walk (aka steer torque).
(this is being shown upside down)






BTW and a FYI....... there is no long/short prop shaft when the correct line spacer/line cutter is used.
Your 280 propeller shaft requires the long spacer/line cutter regardless of prop hub length.

If you are switching from a short hub propeller to a long hub propeller, only the spinner components change.
With a long hub prop, you'll use the AFT-most piece of the 2 pc spinner, along with the center locking bolt.




.

Thanks Rick.

I just got my prop off and realized it does not have the flat washer behind the spinner nut. Is this a standard washer i can purchase from a local hardware store? If Its a standard any idea what size tge washer may be?

Thanks.

Kcamacho said:

I have been trying to locate a 16x15LH prop for my boat but could not find anything south of $400. I found a 16x15RH prop for about half that and since it is on a 280 outdrive technically it shouldn't matter. My question is to somebody who actually understands the real world and not a sales pitch to sell a prop. The drive was serviced 2 seasons ago by a V/P veteran mechanic and he changed anything that needed to be done. Is there anything I should look for when switching to a RH prop to prevent a malfunction or breakdown? The reason I am changing props is I have a 15x17 prop on now that will barely get the boat on plane and will only get me about 4000-4100rpm at WOT. Since we only use the boat when loaded to go for a weekend I was told the larger diameter prop would help my boat since it is a heavier boat for the motor/drive combo. Any info would be great. Thanks

Click to expand...

Technical issues about the change aside, I am concerned about this boat's engine. Changing to a 15 pitch prop will most likely get the engine up into the correct RPM range, however, the speed will most likely drop as the MPH per RPM drops with a numerically lower prop. With a heavily loaded boat, you may get to full RPMs but still not be on a plane. What moves boats is engine torque which is related to engine displacement. Many "boat show specials" and "affordable boats" come from the factory with marginally sized engines in order to keep the sales price down. My present boat is an example of engine CID vs performance. When it was built in 1969 the available V8 was a 283 CID engine w/4bbl carb. I had to run this boat at 3/4 throttle to get it on a plane and the back 2 bbls kicked in an fuel consumption was 10+ GPH. The first season I owned the boat, I changed to a 350 CID (5.7L) engine. While the HP went up the torque at any given RPMs went up faster. The boat now planes easily at less that 1/2 throttle (2300 RPM) and the fuel consumption dropped to 6 to 6.5 GPH. It should be noted that the boat is a 4000 lb cuddy cabin with a 20 degree deadrise Deep V hull.

The get to the point on this is.... changing props may not solve your problem. How big is your boat and what size engine?

Boat is a 28ft bayliner 5200lbs dry with a volvo penta 260a motor and 280 drive.

Either way I have already purchased the prop and am going to try it anyway.

Kcamacho said:

I just got my prop off and realized it does not have the flat washer behind the spinner nut. Is this a standard washer i can purchase from a local hardware store? If Its a standard any idea what size tge washer may be?

Click to expand...

I'm not following you. What are you calling a "flat washer"?

Here's the deal... this may help clear this up for you:

Keep in mind that there is NO short/long prop shaft.
This is a misnomer that there is a short and long shaft when you consider that the shaft cannot be used without the correct spacer/line cutter!

Here's what you'll see.... but this is not complete information when we read the shaft information towards the bottom.
In fact, it is very misleading!

If we look only at the top info..... they get it right, but ony for the 280 and later propeller shafts that are internally threaded!

When the correct spacer/line cutter is used (per the drive model), each shaft nets the exact same length of exposed prop shaft and prop splines.


Short hub prop = 1 or both sections of the 2 pc spinner and the locking tab washer (pre-280 drives) and/or the 1 or both sections of the 2 pc spinner with the center locking bolt (280 and later) or the SS tab washer.

Long hub prop = the AFT most section ONLY of the 2 pc spinner and the center locking bolt. The SS tab washer cannot be used.

Long hub props cannot be locked onto a pre-280 propeller shaft because these are not internally threaded for the center keeper bolt.

Here's an example of the 1 and 2 pc spinner being used with a short hub propeller.



************************************

Bob, according to his thread title, it's a 28 footer.

Kcamacho, listen to what Bob is saying. You must observe the OEM WOT RPM spec... or you will risk engine damage if you were to over-prop.

In all honesty, your best bang for the money will be a Duo Prop lower unit.
I have installed many of these for customers. To date, no one has been disapppointed. In fact, they see not only a performance improvement, but also better fuel economy.




.

I do understand a duoprop woukd be ideal but I cant find one around here for less then $3000.

So if my boat cant reach 4400RPM @ WOT is that how I tell if I am over propped?

Thanks

...............

Kcamacho said:

I do understand a duoprop woukd be ideal but I cant find one around here for less then $3000.
If in good working condition.... that's a much better price than $6K for a new one!

So if my boat cant reach 4400RPM @ WOT is that how I tell if I am over propped?
Well... not exactly.
The spec will offer you an RPM range. If you are within this range, you will be OK.
IOW, you are within the safe range if 4,400 rpm is specified at the low of your WOT RPM range.

Click to expand...

I have 2 line cutters here. I believe the LH one has the longer sleeve and is a little taller.

Kcamacho said:

I have 2 line cutters here. I believe the LH one has the longer sleeve and is a little taller.

Click to expand...

My apologies… apparently I'm not being clear here!

If your drive is a 280, you have no choice but to use the 280 spacer/line cutter...... of which will be the long one...... regardless of the propeller hub length...... and regardless of LH or RH propeller!!


If you were to install a 250, 270 or 275 spacer/line cutter on your 280 prop shaft, any propeller would strike the ring anode and the prop shaft bearing carrier!


.

Short spacer/line cutter for the 250, 270 and 275 propeller shafts:


Long spacer/line cutter for the 280 and 290 style propeller shafts:

Got it thanks. Got the prop on with the proper spacer and it fits well and spins free. I am hoping the wind dies down a little this eve and go for a test.

Oh good.... hope it works out well!



For anyone else who is curious about the difference in shafts and spacers/line cutters, I put this first image together.
The second image is to help ID which drive we may have.
Any 280 with an exhaust outlet flapper was available as a production model only.

BTW... of the 250/270/275 prop shafts, only the 275 is internally threaded for the center keeper bolt..... therefor technically, it is the only one capable of using the long hub propeller.