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Honda BF20D Won't Start

M

Midi Pedals

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My 2008 Honda BF20 has been working great for the last 6 years I've had it. I've replaced the impeller almost yearly, and haven't had any other issue besides that. The other day I had it out on the lake and it suddenly dies when I was headed back in. It just died when I was motoring, and I have not been able to start it since. The engine cranks in the same manner it does if the engine-stop-safety-key is not engaged.


That day I forgot my engine-stop-safety-key-lanyard, so I improvised with a pair of forceps I had. It seemed to do the trick, but I wonder if I shorted it out and that's why it won't start. I do find it odd my oil pressure light is not on as well, but wonder if the two are related.


So far I have checked the engine-stop-safety-switch with my multimeter, and it seems to be working. A reading on the meter when the switch has the key in, and no reading when it's out. I've also changed my oil and filter. My plugs are fine, and I'm getting spark. Would a bad oil pressure light cause this?


Anyone have any other suggestions?
 
Go over that measurement of the stop switch one more time....

With the key in there should be an open circuit.

With the key out there should be an indication of a short....the same as if you put the two multimeter leads together.

The oil light could be effected by a bad kill switch...the oil pressure switch sends a ground to the CDI unit and the CDI unit sends the appropriate signal to the light. If the CDI unit does if "turned off" .....no output.

If in doubt....disconnect the kill switch completely and see if it runs. Keep in mind. If you fiddle with the throttle very much, you can easy flood the engine. So you may have to advance the throttle all the way as you try to start it in order to clear the carburetor.

One last thing. Drain your carburetor into a glass jar and make sure that you do not have water in your fuel. If there is water in it, you will see it right away.

Mike
 
Electric start or manual? Anyway, you say you're getting spark....that should indicate the kill switch is working as it should. But do what Mike says anyway...he's smarter than me.

One other thing about these besides the carburetor is the "fuel chamber" (item #2 in the link below). Have you ever taken that off and drained it?

If not, do so. It is housed inside item #3 and the whole contraption slides on to the engine oil dipstick tube. Disconnect the fuel lines from it and then spray some WD40 on the dipstick tube to aid in sliding the rubber thing off of it. Then, shake all the liquid out of it and put it all back together. Those things can fill with water over time and cause what you are describing.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF20D6 LHA/FUEL PUMP/parts.html

Good luck and let us know what happens.
 
Wow....is Jimmy ever wrong!!!!!

I am not smarter than he....

He certainly reads better than I......I missed the last few words that said you have spark.

It appears that we do agree on the fuel.

Sorry for the misdirection.

Mike
 
Well, he DOES say that his oil light isn't working properly so I think following your electrical advice..Mr. Mike...would be prudent. Maybe he has spark "but is it hot enough?" was what I was thinking.

And, since you ARE smarter than me (when it comes to HONDAS... and I don't think I would get an argument from ANYONE here BUT you!:~) I thought it prudent that he go ahead and make sure all that you point out is "kosher" before moving on to the fuel system.
 
Thanks so much for the responses! Yesterday I shook out the fuel chamber (there was a little liquid in there), and after a shot of Sea Foam Spray, I was able to get it to sputter a bit before my battery died. That stuff has gotten my gas trimmer to start when everything else failed, if I let it sit for a while. It's on the charger now, so I'll see if it starts today. I have video if you're interested (I'm a geek like that).

Should I check to see if it's getting enough spark with my mutlimeter? What am I looking for as far as volts or milivolts, etc?

Thanks again!
 
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Your voltmeter won't be useful for checking spark. If you see a spark jump the gap and it is blue in color, then your spark is likely hot enough. If the spark you are seeing is a sort of pale orange or yellowish color, then it is possible that it may not be hot enough to reliably fire the fuel mixture. Yes, it's "old school" and not an entirely 100% accurate method of "measureing" secondary spark but it has worked well for me many, many years. One way to get a real good look at it is to check it in the dark. Either at night, in a dark garage or even under a makeshift "hood" made from a tarp or blanket.
Did you drain the carb and inspect for water as Mike recommended? Knowing what was in there would be useful info for determining what to do next should the engine not start and run well after charging your battery. I now know that it is electric start and has an auto choke...even though you ignored answering MY question!
 
jgmo said:
Your voltmeter won't be useful for checking spark. If you see a spark jump the gap and it is blue in color, then your spark is likely hot enough. If the spark you are seeing is a sort of pale orange or yellowish color, then it is possible that it may not be hot enough to reliably fire the fuel mixture. Yes, it's "old school" and not an entirely 100% accurate method of "measureing" secondary spark but it has worked well for me many, many years. One way to get a real good look at it is to check it in the dark. Either at night, in a dark garage or even under a makeshift "hood" made from a tarp or blanket.
Did you drain the carb and inspect for water as Mike recommended? Knowing what was in there would be useful info for determining what to do next should the engine not start and run well after charging your battery. I now know that it is electric start and has an auto choke...even though you ignored answering MY question!
Click to expand...

Sorry, didn't intentially ignore your question. :) You are correct, electric start & auto-choke.

I did drain the carb, and didn't see any water in the gas. Tried again today and got the same sputtering. I'll try the 'under the tarp method' and check the color of the spark.

Thanks again!
 
Update:

Blue spark, still sputtering. I disconnected the battery for 5 minutes hoping to reset and circuit, but no dice. I emptied the fuel chamber, and a LOT of fuel came out. Weird, considering yesterday there was much less in there.

One thing though, with the hoses for the fuel chamber off, shouldn't there be gas coming out of the hose that leads from the fuel pump (I'm assuming that's the fuel pump)?
 
Most likely, it is going to need some carb work.

Try this....drain the carburetor bowl....remove the white bystarter assy (it is the white piece on top of the carburetor that has wires going to it) You just need to remove one screw. Once you have it out, spray some brake clean or carb cleaner down through the small hole the the needle goes into. Just give a two or three shots.

Put the bystarter back on and squeeze the fuel bulb again to fill the carburetor bowl.

Then try to start it.

If it does not hit, advance the throttle all the way and try to start again. Be ready to move the throttle back to idle in case it takes off.

Mike
 
I agree with Mike. If you are seeing blue spark, I am going to say your ignition is likely not the problem. Probably carb issues at this point.

But to answer your question: YES! Fuel SHOULD come out of the hose from the fuel pump going into the fuel chamber. If you squeeze the primer a few times, fuel should come out that hose. Also, if you crank the engine with the kill switch out so it won't spark, fuel should pulse out of that hose.

If it doesn't pulse fuel when cranking, then the fuel pump is likely bad. Just make sure it's primed before making that determination.

This 20hp outboard is the FINEST one made in the WORLD. But, that little carburetor can be a bit "finicky" if it is fed ANY water or bad fuel. Your discovery of water in the float chamber is a bad sign. But as great as this outboard is, it is WELL WORTH the effort to get the carb repaired. Then religiously drain it DRY before putting the outboard up for any time longer than a week or so.
 
I just want to add that, when I get one like this, I shoot UNLIT propane gas into the carburetor air inlet to see if it will start. If it starts and runs on propane, then it is DEFINITELY the carb.

You can do this if you have a helper and one of those little plumbers torches sold at hardware stores. The propane is an EXCELLENT test fuel and is relatively safe if used outdoors.......just sayin'
 
midi pedals...
I just realized that I didn't add a necessary caveat to my "propane" test:
That test is valid ONLY after you have determined the carb is RELIABLY getting fuel!
Meaning; you need to verify that the fuel pump is ok before moving on to propane testing.
Sorry for any confusion.
 
Yes, I run MIDIpedals.com as well as make MIDI converter boards for old organ pedals and the like. Fun stuff! What do you guys play?

Thanks for clearing that up, jgmo. :)
 
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