AQ131A Removal

Good day, I am fairly new to boats. Bought a bayliner trophy with an AQ131/275 outdrive had a broken thermostat housing stud on head so I had a new cylinder head built for it.
I figure I might as well and pull the rest of the engine and replace the seals and check the crankshaft bearings.
I would like some advice as to how to remove the rest of the block. I am a helicopter mechanic so I tend to overthink things.
What all do I have to remove from the oudrive to remove the engine block.
Where do I disconnect it?
Do I remove the bell housing or does it simply slide forward off the shaft?
Are there any tutorials that anyone knows about that might be helpfull?
Any advice would be much appreciatted.

Put a chain hoist on engine to take its weight
(remove fuel and water lines and any electrical connections)
remove bolts connecting bell housing to the engine....careful... full engine weight supported at this interface.
Slide engine forward.
lift.

Thanks for the reply. I was also wondering if it were better to remove the motor mounts from the stringers on the hull by removing the lag bolts and sliding the entire block or by removing the mounts from the block, it seems like the lag bolts might be easier because of engine alignment but then again lag bolts aren't really designed to be removed and reinstalled repeatedly. I guess either way it'll be ok no matter what even if I have to make repais to the stringers prior to reinatalling the motor..
thanks again.

I've removed and replaced engine mount lag screws without any problems on swaps. This will give you an opportunity to see if there is any dry rot damage to deal with. You could put some non hardening calk/sealant on the lag screws before replacing them. Just make sure you do not overtighten them and "strip" the wood.

The calk idea sounds great I just happen to have a tube, thats a good point about checking for rot.
Thanks again.

CPT Bob thanks f or the advice about the removal it went like clockwork once (I realized that I hadn't removed the flywheel inspection plate). things look pretty rough from corrosion but hopefully the crank and bearings will be in as good of condition as the cylinder walls. I will probably be asking for advice in the future.

45automan
21 foot Bayliner Trophy
AQ131A

You are most definitely on the right track by removing a lag screws, and also by leaving the flywheel cover attached to the transom shield.

I would also remove the transmission for driveshaft bellows replacement….... and at the same time remove the PDS and replace the single bearing on it!

If you replace the "bearing crosses", these will be a Spicer 5–1306X.



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45automan said:

CPT Bob thanks f or the advice about the removal it went like clockwork once (I realized that I hadn't removed the flywheel inspection plate). things look pretty rough from corrosion but hopefully the crank and bearings will be in as good of condition as the cylinder walls. I will probably be asking for advice in the future.

45automan
21 foot Bayliner Trophy
AQ131A

Click to expand...

You're welcome!

Do what Rick suggests and to round out the most common issues, this would be a good time to go over the carbs as well. Pay particular attention to the jets. These days with ethanol laced gas, you no longer can be assured that "dunk and blow" will do the job. Recently had rock hard tan deposits partially blocking one jet in my 2BBL. Deposits so hard, a copper wire would not do the job. Had to use a straightened out debarbed fishhook to break it up and copper wire to remove it. If an older boat, check the markings on the fuel line from the tank to the engine, make sure it's an ethanol proof line, i.e., SAE J1527.