Okay.... You do not have a choke solenoid, nor does your carburetors have choke butterflies. You have a fuel primer solenoid as explained below... the RED lever must be pointed at the other end of the primer solenoid for it to operate properly. When you press the key in with the engine cranking over via the electric starter, fuel flows thru the primer solenoid directly to the intake manifold area for easy starting.
From what you've said... your present fuel primer solenoid requires replacing.
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Fuel Primer Solenoid Function)
(J. Reeves)
The RED lever...... The normal operating/running position is to have that red lever positioned over top of the solenoid and aimed at the other end of the solenoid, gently turned to its stop. This is the normal/automatic mode position.
Pushing the key in opens the valve within the solenoid allowing fuel to pass thru it in order to prime and start the engine. Looking upon this solenoid as a electric choke results in a better understanding of it.
Having that red lever turned in the opposite direction, facing away from the solenoid, allows fuel to flow thru it to the crankcase area. One would only turn the red lever to this position in a case where the battery might go dead and the engine had to be started via the rope pull method. Look upon putting the red lever in this position as moving a choke lever on a choke equipped engine to the full closed position. Either one would supply fuel to the crankcase/engine for starting purposes BUT if left in that position while running would flood the engine.
The later model primer solenoids are equipped with a schrader valve, used for attaching a pressurized can of fogging oil etc, available at your local dealership with complete instructions.
Pumping the fuel primer bulb up hard fills the carburetor float chambers of course, but that process also applies fuel pressure to the primer solenoid.
The two small hoses leading from the primer solenoid branch off via tees to each fuel manifold section that would feed fuel to the individual cylinders.
Pushing the key in activates the primer solenoid to allow fuel to flow thru it to the intake manifold passageways.
Cranking the engine over causes the fuel pump to engage which in turn sends fuel pulses to the primer solenoid via the 3/8" fuel hose.
Some engines incorporates the "Fast Start" feature which automatically advances the spark electronically so no advance of the throttle is required for starting.
Engines that do not have the "Fast Start" feature will be required to have the throttle advanced slightly.
Starting procedure: pump fuel bulb up hard, crank engine and push the key in at the same time. When the engine fires/starts, release the key so that it falls back to the run position.
Bottom line..... Look upon the primer solenoid as an electric choke.
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Before trying to check out the carburetors, you/we need to know what the compression is on that engine. What are the psi readings of the individual cylinders?
Also, with "all" spark plugs removed, the spark must jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?
The spark plugs should be Champion QL77JC4 plugs gaped at either .030 or .040 .
If the compression and spark is as they should be, and the engine running at idle, removing one spark plug boot at a time should result in a rpm drop of the same amount on each cylinder. If not, since the compression and spark are okay, that would indicate a carburetor problem.
