Honda BF130 (2003) tilt and trim and tight steering

Hi there,


I have a series of recurring problems with the tilt/trim unit on my Honda BF130 (2003) as follows:


* unit loses fluid and I have to bleed and refill every few weeks.
* trim pistons and seals replaced 3 months ago because one was scored and pitted. New pistons scored and pitted already !


The engine is used in salt water and the boat stays in the water from April to November.


Additionally, despite regular greasing, the steering mechanism is extremely stiff and getting worse every year.
A mechanical colleague suggested fitting hydraulic steering assistance - is this a good idea?


Would be very grateful for any help anyone can offer. If I need spares, any ideas where I may get these second hand and would this be a good idea?


Thanks in advance for your help
boomer

I can only comment on two of those items...

RE: replacing the mechanical steering with a hydraulic system. YES! For years, I put up with all the issues with mechanical steering systems. When I purchased my first Honda in 2008, I ponied up the funds to also install a hydraulic steering system because the Honda 225 was a much heavier motor than the old Johnson Sea Pro I had, and because I was also installing a second helm. What a HUGE difference in steering control and ease of handling. If you do it, you will never put up with a boat with a mechanical steering system again.

RE: Scored T/T pistons - sounds like your sacrificial anodes may have failed. Not sure where they are on a 130, but I would replace immediately and make sure they have very good contact with the engine frame - bare metal to bare metal, and make sure that they are not painted over. You may want to consider adding another anode near or on the T/T mechanism. If the piston is scored again, there is no repair that I know of. It will need to be replaced again.

A couple of thoughts on your steering....

I agree with Chawk, that hydraulic steering is much better than mechanical steering for the 130.

Before you make the jump, check a coupleof things.

Disconnect your steering arm and move your motor back and forth. If it is easy to move, then you should be good to go. If it is stiff, then steering will still be somewhat stiff even with hydraulic steering.

Also, if it is not stiff, check to see how hard it is to operate the steering wheel with everything the steering arm still disconnected. It is possible that your steering tube (where the steering cable goes through on the engine) is rusty and may just need a good cleaning and greasing.

You have to remove the steering cable from the engine....hopefully, you will not have to remove the engine.
If it is hard to pull out, then you have rust. You may have to carefully drive it out, being careful not to smash the end of the cable (making it impossible to get through the tube). A dead blow or a block of wood should help get it to the tube, a long punch or maybe even a piece of rebar can help get it out the rest of the way. Use a lot of PbBlaster as you are doing this to lube it up.
Here is a brush you can use with more PbBlaster to clean it out. http://www.amazon.com/Seachoice-903...&sr=8-2&keywords=steering+tube+cleaning+brush

You can probably find it cheaper if you google it. Once you get all the rust out, use some brakekleen and flush out the tube. Then clean and grease the end of the steering cable and grease the steering tube and reinstall.

That may get you through a season until you can put in your hydraulic steering.

Mike

Many thanks to both of you for your tips.
After a lot of graft with a grease gun, the steering works more or less well enough to last out the season but I will almost certainly fit assistee steering over the winter.
Have just taken delivery of a second hand t/t unit ordered through ebay and will fit that in the winter too.
Perhaps additional sacrificial anodes would be a good idea so I"ll assess the situation on dry land.

Leakage problem may have been caused by poorly sealed cable inlet in the engine well but not 100% sure yet.

Next problem will be cleaning the submerged part of the engine after such a long period in the water - boat is moored in the Algarve, Portugal and rate of growth underwater flora is immense!

all the best / P

Hi Boomer,
regarding your p/trim rod corrosion, for better anode protection you could fit a bonding wire to the p/tilt/trim unit like the newer 2006 onward 75-225 hp models have.
It connects the p/tilt/trim unit to the stern bracket anode.
One end attaches to one of the anode mounting bolts, & the other end attaches to the bottom of the p/tilt/trim unit, after drilling & tapping an M6 hole in the bottom of the unit.
Wire is #42
Bolt is #43
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF135A6 XA/POWER TRIM-TILT/parts.html

Another possible cause other than stray currents, etc, is that if the underwater flora or barnacles have attached to the trim rods, that may prevent the trim rod water seals from sealing during use.
If the water seals leak, water gets trapped between the water and oil seals. After a while the now stagnant water becomes acidic and will cause pitting of the rods, known as cavity corrosion. If this is what's happening, anode protection will not help.

Bob

Bob - is there some sort of grease or lubricant that you would recommend that I can put around the water seals that will keep them limber and prevent water incursion?

Hi Bob,
Many thanks - i"ll certainly add a wire and need to check the piston seals but that could very well be the cause.
Re Chawkman's question, is there a suitable lube/ grease I could apply to?

greetings / Boomer

bobmech said:

Hi Boomer,
regarding your p/trim rod corrosion, for better anode protection you could fit a bonding wire to the p/tilt/trim unit like the newer 2006 onward 75-225 hp models have.
It connects the p/tilt/trim unit to the stern bracket anode.
One end attaches to one of the anode mounting bolts, & the other end attaches to the bottom of the p/tilt/trim unit, after drilling & tapping an M6 hole in the bottom of the unit.
Wire is #42
Bolt is #43
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF135A6 XA/POWER TRIM-TILT/parts.html

Another possible cause other than stray currents, etc, is that if the underwater flora or barnacles have attached to the trim rods, that may prevent the trim rod water seals from sealing during use.
If the water seals leak, water gets trapped between the water and oil seals. After a while the now stagnant water becomes acidic and will cause pitting of the rods, known as cavity corrosion. If this is what's happening, anode protection will not help.

Bob

Click to expand...

There a bunch of products that you could use to coat the water seals with to help prevent them from drying out and losing their suppleness, which usually occurs after about 7-8 yrs.
Marine grease
Silicone grease
Petroleum jelly
Sil glyde
Parker O lube
Krytox

I don't have a preference & tend to use what I've got, as long as it's suitable.
But you have to keep in mind that grease attracts dirt & possibly sand, which once attached to the grease becomes an abrasive paste causing wear to the seals. So use sparingly on the seals only, e.g. don't coat the whole trim/tilt rods.
And if possible keep the seals shaded from sunlight.

Bob