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standard rotation 360 leaking oil!!!

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westirmax

Contributing Member
Hello!

I have a standard rotation 360 circa 1989,leaking oil. in a twin installation 1989 rampage.
opposite rotation runs great and doesn't leak a drop.

standard rotation is leaking from the Pan/oil filter/rear seal area, due to its location i cant find the exact location
I was thinking to do a dye test to attempt a pin point leak location.

This leak is definitely a "live with" amount but its a PITA to keep bilge clean, lost 1/2 quart in the last 20 hours of running.

Was thinking of yanking the enigine at the end of the season and attempting a fix. I've been reading all over that the rear seal is problematic and difficult to keep oil tight.

Ideas? live with it? do pan gasket and rear seal? once its out should I decide that route, anything I should do while its out? Valve job?

Greg-
 
Finding a gasket for the rear seal is a pain. Unless someone here has any other options to offer. I had to modify a gasket using some permatex to get things to work.
 
No. flywheel and adapter seem dry. I looked at pcv system and it was not fouled and or clogged. I'm assuming the compression is good as the engine doesn't smoke doesn't suffer from any other issue aside from leaking oil. makes plenty of power. Was told Rear seal, pan gasket or valve cover gasket. What would I learn from a compression test? aside from bad or good compression? damn engine space is so tight its nearly impossible to see where its exactly leaking from.
 
Those seals didn't work on my 360. I indent on the outside of the gasket didn't work with my pan. Had to modify.

daves69 said:
I'd check the PCV and compression before yanking the engine. Are you seeing oil on the flywheel and inside the adapter?

Rear main seal sources..............

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-bs40094/overview/make/chrysler


http://www.competitionproducts.com/...-360-2-pc/productinfo/PVT20360S/#.U_ucIKF0yUk


http://www.marinepartssource.com/ne...RYSLER&mfgno=4397712&desc=Rear Main Rope Seal
oops, no stock on the rope

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/remasese.html
Click to expand...
 
Ok got ya on the compression check, the engine has 1400+ hours on it so its not new but not done. Im looking at the price of a long block and maybe do a swap. then rework that engine. Might be the safest bet. I could go through all the repair work and have something else give me a problem.
 
I'm currently is communication with several engine re builders discussing a "long block replacement", best price I've got so far is ~$1800 delivered for a standard rotation. no tins. But here is a question.

Do I replace both engines with long blocks to ensure that the are a "matched set". In my discussions the HP of the new block is reported at approx 260HP. Is the 360 capable of more, if so how do you get it? cam change? Carb change? both? are there mods to the heads that will help maximize the HP?

Or do I bite the bullet and attempt the rear seal replacement and keep my fingers crossed that nothing else leaks?

I've spoken to many folks how says " they just leak" live with it!!! I hate that idea.

final thought is at 1400 hours whats my life expectancy? 2000? 3000?

Maybe a compression test to see where i stand Ring wise? If compression is marginal maybe the double long block is safest bet?

Greg-
 
Greg .................

westirmax said:
But here is a question.

Do I replace both engines with long blocks to ensure that the are a "matched set".
Not necessary if: the other engine is fairly healthy, and you continue to "sync" rpm like you would normally.
You may need to throttle up differently, but once up on step.... just keep them syncronized.

In my discussions the HP of the new block is reported at approx 260HP. Is the 360 capable of more, if so how do you get it?
You discuss the quench dimension, and you make sure that the rebuilder understands this.
From there..... other measures can be made to take advantage of this.

cam change? Carb change? both? are there mods to the heads that will help maximize the HP?
Yes... mild modifications can be made.

Or do I bite the bullet and attempt the rear seal replacement and keep my fingers crossed that nothing else leaks?
Your call on that!

I've spoken to many folks how says " they just leak" live with it!!! I hate that idea.
Can't blame you... I'd also hate that. But don't cut your nose off.

final thought is at 1400 hours whats my life expectancy? 2000? 3000?
Depends on how they have been laden.

Maybe a compression test to see where i stand Ring wise? If compression is marginal maybe the double long block is safest bet?
Compression test along with a cylinder leak-down test will reveal usable info.
Click to expand...
 
thanks Rick. I pretty much figured that would be the answers.
I assume that If I replace the leaker and keep the other and lets say the new engine , due to it being ...Well new! has 30 HP more at lets say 3000 RPM. I would see this in a lighter fuel burn at the same RPM? since both engines are running the "SAME" rpm once sync'd the apparent difference in power would manifest in a lighter fuel burn?

At the same time I was thinking of moving from Quadra jets to Edelbroc 1409's on both...

My 360 have been baby'd since I've owned them, I rarely run over 3500 RPM. My preferred cruise is 3100, while running at 3400-3600 doesn't cost me much more fuel ( 1.0 MPG at 3100 as to .9 MPG at 34-3600) the ride quality does suffer.
 
.........................

westirmax said:
thanks Rick. I pretty much figured that would be the answers.
I assume that If I replace the leaker and keep the other and lets say the new engine , due to it being ...Well new! has 30 HP more at lets say 3000 RPM. I would see this in a lighter fuel burn at the same RPM? since both engines are running the "SAME" rpm once sync'd the apparent difference in power would manifest in a lighter fuel burn?
Possibly!

At the same time I was thinking of moving from Quadra jets to Edelbroc 1409's on both...
Eeeew............ Edelbrock over Rochesters??? :mad:
I'll take the Q-jets over that of the Edelbrock any day! ;)

My 360 have been baby'd since I've owned them, I rarely run over 3500 RPM. My preferred cruise is 3100, while running at 3400-3600 doesn't cost me much more fuel ( 1.0 MPG at 3100 as to .9 MPG at 34-3600) the ride quality does suffer.
I'd steer clear of a potentially detonation prone RPM.

Make dang sure that your hull is up on step, and then a tad bit more.
Click to expand...
 
My 360 have been baby'd since I've owned them, I rarely run over 3500 RPM. My preferred cruise is 3100, while running at 3400-3600 doesn't cost me much more fuel ( 1.0 MPG at 3100 as to .9 MPG at 34-3600) the ride quality does suffer.
I'd steer clear of a potentially detonation prone RPM.

?? what is that range? I've run her at 3000-3200 since i've owned her with no ill effects?
 
westirmax said:
My 360 have been baby'd since I've owned them, I rarely run over 3500 RPM. My preferred cruise is 3100, while running at 3400-3600 doesn't cost me much more fuel ( 1.0 MPG at 3100 as to .9 MPG at 34-3600) the ride quality does suffer.
I'd steer clear of a potentially detonation prone RPM.

?? what is that range? I've run her at 3000-3200 since i've owned her with no ill effects?
Click to expand...

All I'm suggesting is that we can often be only a few degrees excessive in ignition advance to suffer from detonation damage, and it is sometimes mis-diognosed when the engine is repaired.

If (key word IF) we are going to enter into a potential detonation scenario, it's likely going to at an RPM whereby the hull may not yet be fully up on step...... during when engine loads are near the greastest...... and during when cylinder termperatures are also near the highest.

We need to know what ignition induced detonation is in order to fully understand this.
Not Pre-ignition.... we're talking about Detonation.


Greg, if you are fully up on step at 3000-3200 rpm, then you probaly have nothing to worry about.





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