1989 454 CID "thermo electron"Crusader won't start

The port engine stalled after start up. Several attempts to restart engine failed. Starboard engine easily starts with out issue. Verified fuel spray in carb when throttle is cycled on port engine. Inspected and replaced fuel filters. Cleaned and reinstalled fuel screen at carb. No debris or water found in any of the filters. Attempted restart of port engine after filter work using start fluid. Even tried holding open the choke while starting. No luck at all.

I turned my focus to the ignition system. I swapped coils with the starboard engine no start up. Replaced spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. All eight Old spark plugs were fouled with fuel when replaced. Still port engine fails to start. I then pulled out the #6 plug re-attached wire, grounded plug and cranked engine to verify spark. Amber spark was viewed however, I am uncertain if it was powerful enough. The distributor looks like an old solid state type, but unsure being a newbie to crusader engines. Any recommendations what to do next is greatly appreciated.

Sounds like a poor spark for sure.

You need to figure out what type of distributor you have; "looks like" doesn't provide any reference...being as you stated the wires cap and rotor were changed that shouldn't be difficult.

You would also benefit from determining if the ballast resistor is still installed and in use...

BTW, there's really very little that is Crusader specific when it comes to the ignition system....its good old V-8 Chevy stuff...just marine rated

Thanks Makomark,

I discovered that the distributor is a solid state prestolite type. I believe the part number is CRU37067. The part drawing matches what I have on my crusader. Looks like I may have to replace the entire

unit. Hopefully I can purchase the electronic points module to save work and money. The coils are 12 volt non ballast resistor according to the label on the unit. Im also going to check out the wiring and

grounds from the coil to make sure they are not breaking down.

I swapped out the ignition module in the distributor at tonight still not start. However I noticed that the "IGN ON. Light ON SYSTEM CHARGED" green annunciation
(for the halon fire extinguishing discharged) failed to illuminate when i attempted to to start the port engine. The starboard " IGN ON LIGHT ON SYSTEM CHARGED" did illuminate when I started the starboard engine. I will look further into the logic of the system to see if it locks out starting of the port engine. Hopefully I am on to something. If anyone has info on this system please let me know.

..."Amber spark was viewed however"

Motors will not run with an amber spark--gotta be BLUE. That's the problem. (Went through this years ago--very frustrating.)

Here's what I'd do if I was helping you:

1. Ignition ON, check for voltage at the + coil terminal. Should be at least 8 volts (preferably more).

2. Check for voltage there as well while cranking. Should be 12 volts.

If either of the above are not met, you're loosing voltage somewhere (hence the ugly spark).

A case in point: My port battery is on its way out, requiring me to jump it to get her running. I removed the jumper after she started up (it was now running only on the crap battery) and she nearly stalled! And it was already running at the time, not trying to start up. Low voltage equals poor spark equals stalling and hard starting.

Jeff

Thanks Jeff,

Yep zero VDC at the port engine positive coil post with the ignition switch on. I disconnected the terminals from the post and checked individually excluding the one to the module in the distributor. The positive terminal to the starter was fine when I engaged the starter. However the yellow/violet pair was zero VDC ignition switch on and my ground to port engine neg battery post. I believe the pair go to the ignition switch and possibly the alternator. But Im not sure...I need a good crusader wire print to find out. If anyone has a start circuit print I would appreciate it... My tiara 3100 print is not very helpful with this circuit.

The negative post to the coil was reading 68 ohms resistance which is too high. Check the starboard engine which read 16 ohms. I will go through and clean up my ground connections to improve the value. I did find and repaired a faulty negative starboard engine battery post which corrected an issue having to recently use my parallel switch to crank the starboard engine. Anyhow, if there is a copy of the start circuit please send it my way.

If--repeat IF--there is a ballast resistor in this circuit, jump it out for testing and, if the coil gets 12 volts, replace the resistor.

I had a practically new resistor that 'looked' fine but would not run the motor.

Jeff

this is a link to the diagram in a post:
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=1043&d=1282921262

This is the link to that post:
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-fo...wiring-diagram-for-GM-V-8-s&highlight=diagram

These are from the 80's version of the owner's manual...being as it appears your ignition system has been modified, the wiring colors indicated could be different...For the ignition to function, you need the 12VDC from the ignition switch to the + post on the coil (purple)....also, there's a wire running from the R terminal of the starter solenoid to the + post on the coil....this only matters during cranking...

Ok, yellow does got to the alternator like i previously thought. I may not have a ballast resistor, given that I have a purple/yellow pair of wires sharing a single terminal lug at the coil positive post. According to the print the yellow terminates at the ballast resistor. On my engine it terminates at the coil with the purple wire. The purple wire to the starter works fine cause the engine will fire with the starter engaged then quits when I let off the key. Where are the ballast resistors typically located? Ill go to the ignition switch and check for 12 vdc with the key on at the purple terminal and trace the wire back to the coil. Thanks for the print is is very useful. I also broke down and ordered the manual today to keep with the boat.

Thanks Mike!

some installers will add a fuse/circuit breaker in the ignition lead, so if the IGN termal of the switch has +12VDC between it and ground, with the key on, you may want to look for them...otherwise, I'd suppect a "bad connection" were the resistor used to be (or still is and its bad).

Going on memory, the resistor is in the area of the main circuit breaker, above the starter, at the back of the block.

I did verify I have the internal resistor coils. Will be checking the ignition switch and wiring back to the coil tomorrow.

Ignition switch check out fine. 12 vdc in the on position. Could not find a fuse or any issues with the run wire in the areas that I could access. So I replaced the all the wiring from the ignition switch to coil. Engine crank up and ran like there was never an issue. Thanks again for all the help Mike and Jeff!

B.