Dad's Old Bass Boat 1979 VIP H-17 Tournament w/mercruiser 470

I have recently inherited the world's ugliest bass boat. My dad had a 1979 VIP H-17 Tournament which has a mercruiser 470 in it. That is not a typo it is an I/O bass boat. He passed away 18 months ago and I recently decided to get this boat back in the water after 14 years. My dad loved this boat and I really like the idea of fishing in the boat he loved. I have been around boats off and on but in reading the 470 forums it looks like I am in for quite an adventure. Here is where I am at so far.

Motor was rebuilt in 2000 not sure what all was done to it but it has 40 hours on it since the rebuild.

He had the outboard replaced around the same time as the engine rebuild

Spent $900 having the starter and coil replaced and all of the electrical gone through in June of 2014.

I put it in the water over the 4th of July and here is what I noticed right away.

Started great but took a few trips out to get it to where it would go over 2000 rpm. I attribute this to old gas because it eventually ran great.

Once started it has a good idle but after you give it gas will not return to a low idle unless you tap the throttle back to the idle stop manually. There is actually a tab on the valve cover with a hole in it that looks like it might be used to hold a spring that would help it return to idle. Any ideas or a part number would be appreciated.

Took it out again last weekend and had the following issue

The trim would not lower it would get to a point and stop. The trim motor sounded strong when raising but sounded bad when trying to lower. I then noticed the wiring for the trim switch located in the throttle getting very hot to the point where it was melting the electrical tape. I then noticed a trim switch on the console and that worked great to lower it but not to raise it. I am thinking it might be a relay.

After about an hour on the lake the motor just shut off. It will start like a champ but as soon as you take the key out of the start position it dies. If you keep it int he start position it continues to run. I would suspect an ignition switch but it was replaced when I had the new starter and coil put in less than two months ago. Any suggestions would be helpful.

I will send some pictures at the end of the month because the boat is located at the lakehouse about 5 hours away. I would really like to find someone that is knowledgeable about these engines that I could turn to for advice from time to time. I would be willing to replace the engine sometime in the future but the wife wasn't thrilled to spend $900 on an old ugly gold boat so no idea how much I would be paying to put a better engine in it. Thanks to everyone in advance for any help or advice you can provide.

Throttle not returning problem


The throttle cable has to mounting locations, one on the motor and one on the carb.
The location on the motor is where you have to adjust the (trunion), Plastic or brass barrel on the threaded part of the cable.

Remove from where it is mounted and adjust barrel so it puts a small amount of pressure on the cabel so the throttle always goes back to idle.
Again adjust enough to put a SMALL amount of prssure....


The ignition key suspected issue with motor shutting off when key is returned to run position.

the igniton key has three positions. ON, RUN and CRANK (or START)

If when you return the key to the run positon the motor shuts off then it is either the key switch or a loose wire on the key switch or wire harness issue.

The key switch has a RED wire to one terminal, it will have two other terminals. One will be the run position and the other will be the crank.

If you get a 12 volts test light ($10 bucks at auto store) Connect the clip to a known ground and touch the pointed end to the key switch termianls.
Start with the one you feel is battery connection. The light will light up.
next touch the run position terminal and turn the key to the run position. The light should light up just like when touching the battery connection.
If not it is the key switch. If it does then it is a loose or broken connection in the wiring harness.

As far as your trim issue sounds like a wiring issue.

some picks of the switches used both on the shift control and dash and a pic of the pump and solenoid would be helpful in understanding the set up.

KGhost,
Thanks so much for the comments. I am upset that I didn't bring the boat back with me to work on. I spoke with the mechanic who did all of the work on the boat in June and he is just going to give me a new ignition switch so I am hoping that is the issue. I will definitely take plenty of pictures next time I am there. It is a pretty cool little bass boat and I know my dad sunk plenty of money into it so I want to get it running well. I did have one additional question for the group, in reading the threads it looks like everyone is recommending the alternator conversion kit. I was wondering what some of the thoughts were on that? I appreciate the response and I am sure I will be on here again as I begin the restoration of this boat.

Mark

If you plan to use this boat, I'd definitely install the alternator conversion kit.
These kits typically use the Delco 10si alternators.

Update: So I got the ignition issue fixed as well as the throttle issue (Thank You KGhost) not the problem I am having is under power over 3000 rpm the boat will sputter and die. I tried the easy fixes with changing the spark plugs and attempted to change the fuel filter but the local auto parts store didn't have the correct one. In neutral the engine will run at 4000 rpm just fine but under power anything over 3000 rpm causes it to sputter and stall. I have some sea foam but I am not even sure where to put it on this boat. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I feel I am close and I am dying to take this thing fishing. Thanks in advance.

Check the mechanical advance in the distributor for rust; clean and lube with WD-40 to see if it will move. Consider changing the points out for a Pertronics electronic ignition. Keep the RPM under 1500 in neutral. Pull the top off the carb and fill with Seafoam and let it soak over night. Dump the rest of the Seafoam in the fuel tank. Start it up and it will smoke until the Seafoam burns off.

I need some advice ASAP!!! Please. So I have finally got the motor running fairly well just kind of a bear to get started after it has been sitting for awhile. I am now in need of some winterizing help. This motor has a closed cooling system and when I went to drain the heat exchange only antifreeze came out. It is supposed to get down to 25 tonight and I am not sure if there is something else I need to do. I would hate for something to happen to it after all of the work I put into it this summer. I would appreciate any help

there are 2 drain plugs ,the rear most one is the raw water side, you remove that one.
If for some reason you cant use the drain plug, remove one of the endcaps of the heat exchanger

BT, thanks for the timely response. Not to sound like an idiot but is the heat exchanger the long cylindrical piece?

I'll second what guyjg said regarding ignition advance flyweight system and return springs.
If the ignition distributor is not offering the correct progressive spark lead, you'll never get any power from this engine.

Check the spark advance at incriments of 250 rpm up to approx 3,500 rpm.
Make yourself a curve graph, and compare this to the OEM curve graph.
NOTE: OEM curve graphs are minus the BASE advance in the vertical scale.... so factor this in!



On this engine part of the Heat Exchanger system is integral with the exhaust manifold.

The shell and tube heat exchanger is at the bottom..... coolant tank or reservoir is at the top.



No need to drain the Ethylene Glycol side if the mixture is correct.
Drain only the seawater side of the system.



I found this marked up image on the Internet.
I don't know who marked it up, so use caution as to the accuracy!



.

I just wanted to think everyone for their help today. I am happy to report that the boat was successfully winterized. I ran my hand underneath the aft portion of the heat exchanger and it appeared that my dad had installed a T Nut so a couple of twists later the boat was winterized. I am actually pretty happy that it is that easy, it means my fishing season isn't quite over. I thought I would show my 6 year olds catch from her first trip on the boat. I can honestly say this moment wouldn't have been possible without the help from the guys in this forum. Thanks for the help and the patience. I will post a before picture of the boat as I have a long winter of restoration work ahead of me.

Did you probe the drain with a wire to make sure rust particles did not block the drain while it was draining?