primer solenoid

I have an evinrude 25hp 1994 with electric start and primer. The only way I can keep engine running smoothly is to crack open the valve on the primer solenoid. When I put it in the run position, the engine surges. Carb has been cleaned and fuel pump rebuilt. Still can't set the idle unless I use the red valve handle to let some fuel directly in. Any ideas? The high speed jet is fixed. what is the initial setting for the low speed screw, 2 1/2 turns out from stop?

Cracking the primer solenoid valve slightly simply adds to the fuel flow that is cruising thru the carburetor. This indicates that not enough fuel is flowing thru the carburetor for some reason. However, here is the carburetor adjustment information you asked for.

(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1

Thanks. It doesn't seem to matter where I set it. It just can't stay running smoothly unless I crack open the valve. I pulled off the hose from the fuel pump out to the primer solenoid and cranked it over. The fuel pump is sending plenty of fuel through there. Could it be a problem with the float? Originally the engine was running, but it would die when we tried to throttle up. Cleaned the carbs and now the high speed is much better. when I put the valve in the run position it surges or "cuts out" at any speed. I think the solenoid is bad (no click and no fuel pumping through with key pressed in) That should not matter once the engine is running should it?

In your instructions for setting a carb, you talk about a spit back or mild backfire. That is what the engine is doing. I have set carburetors before using that method but this one just won't work unless I add fuel via the primer valve. Maybe the float setting got messed up when we were cleaning it or could the system be sucking air somewhere?

Removing the core plugs is generally not needed. I remove them only if all else doesn't correct the problem and I know for sure that the problem is carburetor related. Actually a personal choice and opinion but it works for me.

When cleaning the carburetors, if you did not actually clean the high speed jet with a piece of single strand steel wire, do so as solvent just doesn't do that job properly... and a slightly clogged high speed jet would result in the exact problem you're encountering.

Checking the primer solenoid... Of course first check to see that you are getting 12 volts to it when you push the key in while the key is in the RUN (engine NOT running) position. If the voltage is okay, remove a primer line from the fitting at the carburetor of intake manifold, pump the fuel primer bulb up hard, key in RUN position, push the key in. Fuel should shoot out of that disconnected hose. Does it? Was voltage present?

(Carburetor Float Setting)
(J. Reeves)

With the carburetor body held upside down, the float being viewed from the side, adjust the float so that the free end of the float (the end opposite the hinge pin) is ever so slightly higher (just ever so slightly off level) than the other end. And when viewed from the end, make sure it is not cocked.
Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1

I did use a wire in the jet but it looks like I will have to tear the carb off and try again. I will also check that the float is set correctly, thanks. I was hoping I wouldn't have to remove the starter and carb again. As for the primer solenoid, I didn't have a way to check the voltage to it but I will. It was not pumping gas through the primer line with the key in run and key pressed in. Why are there nipples for two primer lines coming out but only one is used and one is blocked off? Is that for a model with dual carbs?

scooter2 said:

As for the primer solenoid, I didn't have a way to check the voltage to it but I will. It was not pumping gas through the primer line with the key in run and key pressed in. Why are there nipples for two primer lines coming out but only one is used and one is blocked off? Is that for a model with dual carbs?

Click to expand...

Yes, it's important that you start your troubleshooting with a voltage check.... volt/ohm meters are as cheap as $8.95 in some areas.

The nipples on the primer solenoid.... yes, the extra nipple is used for "all" of the other engines, 2 thru 8 cylinder by having the hoses hooked to "tees"... more hoses sprouting off, etc.

When you checked to see if fuel would shoot out... make sure that you have pressure applied to the fuel lines via a hard primer bulb... also make sure that the key is in the RUN position.