Logo

1993 Force no spark

wismo

Regular Contributor
Hi Guys i just joined and am new to the boating community.
I have a 1993 Force on a 16 foot sunliner.
I took it out the other day for the second time since i got it started the motor THEN stopped to get further out duE to shallow water and have not been able to start motor since.
I HAVE NO SPARK i PULLED FLY WHEEL AND WANT TO START BY TESTING STATOR BUT NO SURE HOW do this properly
 
Force with Mercury Designed Ignitions
(1992-1999)
Two Cylinder Engines Using a Separate Switch Box and Ignition Coils
No Fire At All:
1.Disconnect the black/yellow kill wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition fires now, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the keyswitch, harness or shift switch.
2.Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
3.Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
4.Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Motors with Black Stator
Wire Read To Resistance DVA
Blue
Red Blue/White
Red/White 3250-3650
75-90 180V or more
25V or more


Motors with Red Stator
Wire Read To Resistance DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 180V or more
Red Stator Adapter
Wire Read To Resistance DVA
Blue Engine Ground Open 180V or more




No fire or Intermittent on One Cylinder:
1.If the cylinders are only acting up above an idle, connect a inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem cylinder.
2.Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Read To Resistance DVA
Brown wire (#1)
Brown wire (#1)
White wire (#2) White wire (#2)
Engine GND
Engine GND 800-1400
Open
Open 4V or more
1V or more (a)
1V or more (a)
a.This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cyli?lder is low — disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low — the trigger is bad.
3.Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.



Engine will not rev beyond 3000-4000 RPM:
1.Connect an inductive Tachometer to each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders acting up usually indicate a bad stator.
2.Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s Blue wire and Blue/White wires. Perform a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (Blue to Engine GND if the engine has a Red stator kit installed).
3.Connect a DVA meter between the stator’s Red wire and Red/White wires. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than what is on the Blue wire indicates a bad stator.



High Speed Miss:
1.Connect an inductive Tachometer each cylinder in turn and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under “No fire or Intermittent on One Cylinder”.
2.Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a high speed miss when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3.Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnet
 
Thank you Im assuming that this applies to the 3 cyl. as well.
Also IM going to replace trigger the number on it is 749029 is there another number for updated part.
 
Last edited:
Sorry The rest didn't post.

Three Cylinder Engines
Mercury Designed Ignitions
1992-1997

Engines Using a Single Switch Box and Three Ignition Coils
No Fire At All:
1.Disconnect the black/yellow kill wire AT THE PACK and retest. If the engine’s ignition fires now, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the keyswitch, harness or shift switch.
2.Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
3.Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
4.Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Motors with Black Stator
Wire Read To Resistance DVA
Blue
Red Engine Ground
Engine Ground 3250-3650
75-90 180V or more
25V or more


Motors with Red Stator
Wire Read To Resistance DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 180V or more
No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders:
1.If the cylinders are only acting up above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2.Check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Read To Resistance DVA
Brown wire (#1)
White wire (#2)
Purple wire (#3)
Brown wire (#1)
White wire (#2)
Purple wire (#3) White/Black
White/Black
White/Black
Engine GND
Engine GND
Engine GND 800-1400
800-1400
800-1400
Open
Open
Open 4V or more
4V or more
4V or more
1V or more (a)
1V or more (a)
1V or more (a)
a.This reading can be used to determine if a pack has a problem in the triggering circuit. For instance, if you have no fire on one cylinder and the DVA trigger reading for that cyli?lder is low — disconnect the trigger wire and recheck the DVA output to ground from the trigger wire. If the reading stays low — the trigger is bad.
3.Check the DVA output on the green wires from the switch box while connected to the ignition coils. Check the reading on the switch box terminal AND on the ignition coil terminal. You should have a reading of at least 150V or more at both places. If the reading is low on one cylinder, disconnect the green wire from the ignition coil for that cylinder and reconnect it to a load resistor. Retest. If the reading is now good, the ignition coil is likely bad. A continued low reading indicates a bad power pack.

Engine will not rev beyond 3000-4000 RPM:
1.Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A single cylinder dropping fire will likely be the switch box or ignition coil. All cylinders acting up usually indicate a bad stator.
2.Connect a DVA meter to the stator’s Blue wire and do a running test. The DVA voltage should jump up to well over 200V and stabilize. A drop in voltage right before the problem occurs indicates a bad stator. (Blue to Engine GND if the engine has a Red stator kit installed).
3.Connect a DVA meter to the Red wire. The DVA voltage should show a smooth climb in voltage and remain high through the RPM range. A reading lower than what is on the Blue wire indicates a bad stator.

High Speed Miss:
1.Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the switch box or ignition coil. Occasionally a trigger will cause this same problem. Check the trigger as described above under “No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders”.
2.Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a high speed miss when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3.Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.

Three Cylinder Engines
1996-2000

Engines Using a Combination Switch Box and Ignition Coil (CDM Modules)
No Fire At All:
1.Disconnect the black/yellow kill wires from the harness and retest. If the engine’s ignition fires now, the kill circuit has a fault-possibly the keyswitch, harness or shift switch.
2.Disconnect one CDM module at a time and see if the other modules start firing. If they do, the module you just unplugged is bad.
3.Disconnect the yellow wires from the stator to the rectifier and retest. If the engine fires, replace the rectifier.
4.Check the cranking RPM. A cranking speed less than 250-RPM will not allow the system to fire properly.
5.Check the stator resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Read To Resistance DVA
White/Green Green/White 500-700 180V or more No fire or Intermittent on One or More Cylinders:
1.If the cylinders are only acting up above an idle, connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem cylinders.
2.Using a set of piercing probes, check the trigger resistance and DVA output as given below:

Wire Read To Resistance DVA
Purple wire
White wire
Brown wire
Engine GND
Engine GND
Engine GND Open
Open
Open 3V or more
3V or more
3V or more
•NOTE: These triggers have the bias circuitry built into them, therefore you cannot measure the resistance like you could the older engines. In addition, there are four triggering coils used.
3.If # 1 is not firing, disconnect #2 CDM module and see if the #1 module starts firing. If it does, the module you just unplugged is bad. If it does not, disconnect #3 CDM module and see if the #1 module starts firing. If it does, the module you just unplugged is bad.
4.If # 2 or #3 are not firing, swap locations with #1 and see if the problem moves. If it does, the module is bad. A continued no fire on the same cylinder indicates a bad trigger.

High Speed Miss:
1.Connect an inductive Tachometer to all cylinders and try to isolate the problem. A high variance in RPM on one cylinder indicates a problem usually in the trigger or CDM module.
2.Perform a high-speed shutdown and read the spark plugs. Check for water. A crack in the block can cause a high speed miss when the water pressure gets high, but a normal shutdown will mask the problem.
3.Remove the flywheel and check the triggering and charge coil flywheel magnets for cracks or broken magnets.
 
Thanks Jerry I agree just randomly replacing parts is not a good idea and very costly. The only test I have not been able to do is the peak voltage because i dont have a dva but i may put one together and try it.
Flywheel off trigger looks cracked so Im suspicious that this may be my problem.
 
Thanks for the help guys
Stator and rectifier replaced started right up.
Im in mass. and found a guy in wareham for used and almost new or new parts tons of FORCE stuff.
 
Back
Top