'69 Johnson 33hp ignition help?

I just picked up a '69 Johnson 33hp, and I have the Clymer for various models. Kinda new to outboards, but I've worked with cars and small motors before.

I got the motor and controls, but the wiring harness was cut a few feet from the ignition switch, so I picked up a basic marine switch from Napa. The wiring diagram for the motor shows that the stock switch has a BAT connection, two M connections, an S and an A. The Napa switch has BAT, G, L, S, and one M.

So, the L on the Napa switch is the acessory position, which I connected the choke to as it was connected to A on the stock switch. I connected the white (solenoid) wire to S. Red (12v) to BAT, and ran a 12v from the negative battery terminal to G. I was left with two black wires from the harness that - according to the wiring diagram - went to the two M terminals on the stock ignition switch. On the wiring diagram, one black wire goes to the coil and one to the cutout switch, but they both looked like they end up at the same terminal, so I connected them both to the M terminal on my ignition switch.

So, at this point, the motor cranks, the choke engages, but I have no spark. I looked at the diagram a little closer, and the two black wires actualy don't end up at the same place on the motor, but that the cutoff switch actually meets with a wire from the other side of the coil.

My question is, will that ignition switch work with this motor? Where should the two black wires connect in relation to the switch? Could I have damaged anything the way I initially wired it? Any other reason I wouldn't have spark?

Thanks

Consider the "G" terminal another "M" terminal.

With those two black wires connected, the magneto is shorted out... same as turning the key OFF.

Remove completely that wire you ran from the "G" terminal to the negative post of the battery.

Attach one of those black wires to the "G" (Actually a M terminal).... Attach the other black wire to the "M" terminal. This setup opens the circuit between the "G" terminal and the "M" when the key is in the ON position, enabling the ignition.... and closes/shorts the circuit between the "G" terminal and the 'M" terminal when the key is in the OFF position killing the ignition.

So far, from what you've said... you haven't damaged anything.

Wow...perfect. Made the change, and it started on the first crank. Thank you so much for your help. Now I just need to get it to stay running after it starts. Smells a little flooded, and I'm sure the carb needs some tuning.

Once again, thank you so much!