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1998 Honda 130hp

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xring01

New member
I am pretty sure I know the answer to this, but would like to verify it..

Is there any cost effective ways to increase the HP of these Engines...
 
Hi xringo1,

If you are dissatisfied with the power your outboard is producing, I would ask if you have made sure that it is running as efficiently "as designed" before considering any tinkering around?

If you haven't done so already, you may want make sure you are getting full throttle when you push the control forward. Sometimes a simple throttle cable/linkage adjustment can yield surprising power results if things have gotten "sloppy" over time.

You may service your fuel filters regularly (we have seen many VST "nightmare" filters posted recently) but have you looked at the screen in the intake manifold lately? See #5 in diagram link below.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/1999/BF130AX XA/INTAKE MANIFOLD/parts.html

While making sure that the throttle plate is opening all the way, take a little time to gently clean the throttle body and plate. Special sprays are now available for doing so and 3M Corporation makes an EXCELLENT DIY fuel injection service kit that can restore plenty of power to a well used engine. It is manufactured for autos but with a little thought can be easily adapted to work on your outboard.

Checking fuel pressure and volume is an easy way of verifying that your engine is being "fed" the amount of fuel it was designed to get. A weak pump or a worn fuel pressure regulator are horsepower thieves.

Thermostats may not immediately come to mind when thinking about going faster or "popping' up on plane but an engine that runs too cold (or too hot) will not make the power it should and will carbon up the valves and piston crowns.

And speaking of valves...when was the last time the valve adjustment was checked? Tight valves will lower compression and rob power. Loose valves won't allow proper fuel or exhaust flow.

And, while still on valves, the valve timing is critical to efficient fuel burn and a little slop in a belt or a tensioner can let the timing "drift" or, even worse, jump a tooth or more and cause plenty of problems. Something that needs to be checked and corrected according to a reasonable maintenance schedule.


In my opinion any modification that would return "meaningful" horsepower increases are not easily achieved. Burning more fuel, more quickly is the formula for doing so and involves bigger injectors, higher lift cams, advanced engine timing, increased air flow and probably some enhanced electronic calibration. And, if you COULD do all that, increased reliability is not typically experienced with such changes. It's usually the opposite....breakage...lots of it sometimes. Sure, it can be done....but at what price?

I'm know that MY answer doesn't "precisely" match the question but I'm throwing it out there for discussion and thought. And, if you hadn't pondered any these things as yet, then maybe you could end up being happy "dancing with the girl you got".
 
Ditto on everything Jimmy said, plus I would consider one other thing to improve performance of your current power plant - decarbonize the engine using Sea Foam, YamaLube Ring Free or similar decarbonizer. I've seen several times where decarbonizing and older engine dramatically improves performance.
 
jgmo

Your answer is pretty much what I expected to hear. I was just hoping there was some new Technology that Re Mapped the engine for better performance...


CHawk,
I will look into the Decarbonizer and get that done, once I get my engine tuned up and running better.

Thanks to both.
 
xring01,
Yeah, like Prego Spaghetti Sauce, "it's in they-ah". And, that is EXACTLY what "performance chips" for cars and trucks exploit when you buy them at speed shops...IE: increased fuel injector pulse width with a dash of "enhanced" spark timing advance... and MOST of the power that a particular engine can deliver is more readily available. BUT, it CAN'T come from the factory that way and STILL be accompanied by a 50 or even a 100,000 mile warranty. They wisely hold some back to protect the reliability of the engine. THEIR NAME is on it!

That was one of the biggest headaches I had when I ran a big rig truck repair shop...explaining to truck drivers why....even though I easily could....I wouldn't... "turn up the wick" on their Detroit Diesel or Cummins electronic engines.

It was because we worked for a company that wanted THE BEST FUEL MILEAGE and ENGINE RELIABILITY from their equipment that they could get. And that is NOT what FULL POWER gets you.

Now, on the other hand, for my OWNER/OPERATORS, THEY OWNED their engines and THEY PAID for their fuel...and their tickets...so I left the decision up to them...

And they almost unanimously chose....

FULL POWER!

That's why, early in the 0dark thirty hours of the Arizona desert highway, you can... and will... be passed by tractor trailer rigs going 90+ in the "hammer" lane!

I just don't know how to do it on a Honda.
But someone probably does...
 
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