Boat info:
2004 Rinker Captiva 232BR
5.0L MPI Bravo 3 Dual Prop
Engine Serial #: OM648919
Drive Serial#: OM190986
TransomSerial#: OM591693
290 hours on hour meter.
Hello all, long post...sorry...and thanks in advance for any help you can provide....
We were using the boat over the 4th of July weekend when it gave one beep and shut down. Engine cranks but no restart. After it sits for a few hours it will start and run ok for roughly 5 minutes then one beep and shuts down, cranks fine, but no restart again until it sits.
Original shut down happened while just cruising at about 3200 rpm, just enough to stay on plane, ( water was a little choppy due to wind and other boat traffic and we had just crossed over a much larger boats wake so it was a little rough). No indications of any overheating or loss of oil pressure. Always restarts if you wait long enough but always shuts down again in the same fashion. On trailer when it is restarted on the muffs and water hose I am able to shift to both forward and reverse with no problems. Oil pressure shows 40 PSI on the dash gauge (no knocking or rattling) and the water temp gauge never got above 160. (No temp reading on the muffs as it won't run long enough to get warm. Plenty of water coming out exhaust(s), through drive and/or through hull exhaust. Drive oil bottle is full.
What I have done so far to trouble shoot: ( I am very familiar with fuel injection operation and troubleshooting)..even though I forgot to bring a meter home....:0)
Bought a Seloc repair manual, downloaded the wiring diagrams.
Checked each and every sensor for loose connections, broken wires etc....unplugged and replugged all the sensors. No change.
Read up in a lot of different forums on similar problems...while boat is low hours (290) and seems to have been well maintained, it is 10 years old, I bought it used and know nothing about exactly how it has been serviced so I decided to perform some maintenance/parts swapping. Since the manual says the sea water pump should be rebuilt every 300 hours of 3 years I ordered a rebuild kit (Impeller and O ring) pulled pump and replaced the impeller. (old impeller was fine). Since the floor was pulled up for access to the pump I also decided to replace the Crank Position Sensor and Engine Coolant Sensor (RockAuto.com carries some Mercruiser sensors and parts at much more reasonable prices.) Changing those has NOT fixed the problem. Also went ahead and changed the fuel filter/water separator. Tried changing the inline filter but the Mercruiser filter's threads don't match any filter (Purolater Filter F33144 was mention in another forum but it has different thread pitch and does not fit) I could get at any of the major parts chains so I put the old one back on, as it wasn't clogged anyway. I have a Throttle Position Switch and Idle Air Control motor coming. Only senors left are the MAP Sensor and the OIL Safety Pressure Switch and Water Pressure Switch. (I know I am playing parts swapper but being 10 years old I just decided to update it all.) If Mercruiser would have made it so you could pull codes like in a car wit a REGULAR scan tool or even an LED this wouldn't be happening...thanks for screwing your customers Mercruiser...GRRR!!!
While we are on that subject, does anyone know a way to make the MPI system flash codes with an LED, similar to the older EFI vehicles used to do on the dash lights?
I unplugged and jumpered out the safety lanyard switch circuit (two purple wires)...no help.
I left my meter in my truck/tow vehicle (stupid me) so at the moment I don't have a way to measure any voltages but I will update later when I do.
I saw this on another forum:
NOTE: If any 5v sensor becomes shorted to ground the engine will not start. If the engine is operating when the short occurs the engine may stop operating and will not start.
I'll check that later but was curious if anyone has experienced this.
Beyond having NOT measured voltages have I missed something?
Any other information I can provide please ask.
Thanks
Danny
2004 Rinker Captiva 232BR
5.0L MPI Bravo 3 Dual Prop
Engine Serial #: OM648919
Drive Serial#: OM190986
TransomSerial#: OM591693
290 hours on hour meter.
Hello all, long post...sorry...and thanks in advance for any help you can provide....
We were using the boat over the 4th of July weekend when it gave one beep and shut down. Engine cranks but no restart. After it sits for a few hours it will start and run ok for roughly 5 minutes then one beep and shuts down, cranks fine, but no restart again until it sits.
Original shut down happened while just cruising at about 3200 rpm, just enough to stay on plane, ( water was a little choppy due to wind and other boat traffic and we had just crossed over a much larger boats wake so it was a little rough). No indications of any overheating or loss of oil pressure. Always restarts if you wait long enough but always shuts down again in the same fashion. On trailer when it is restarted on the muffs and water hose I am able to shift to both forward and reverse with no problems. Oil pressure shows 40 PSI on the dash gauge (no knocking or rattling) and the water temp gauge never got above 160. (No temp reading on the muffs as it won't run long enough to get warm. Plenty of water coming out exhaust(s), through drive and/or through hull exhaust. Drive oil bottle is full.
What I have done so far to trouble shoot: ( I am very familiar with fuel injection operation and troubleshooting)..even though I forgot to bring a meter home....:0)
Bought a Seloc repair manual, downloaded the wiring diagrams.
Checked each and every sensor for loose connections, broken wires etc....unplugged and replugged all the sensors. No change.
Read up in a lot of different forums on similar problems...while boat is low hours (290) and seems to have been well maintained, it is 10 years old, I bought it used and know nothing about exactly how it has been serviced so I decided to perform some maintenance/parts swapping. Since the manual says the sea water pump should be rebuilt every 300 hours of 3 years I ordered a rebuild kit (Impeller and O ring) pulled pump and replaced the impeller. (old impeller was fine). Since the floor was pulled up for access to the pump I also decided to replace the Crank Position Sensor and Engine Coolant Sensor (RockAuto.com carries some Mercruiser sensors and parts at much more reasonable prices.) Changing those has NOT fixed the problem. Also went ahead and changed the fuel filter/water separator. Tried changing the inline filter but the Mercruiser filter's threads don't match any filter (Purolater Filter F33144 was mention in another forum but it has different thread pitch and does not fit) I could get at any of the major parts chains so I put the old one back on, as it wasn't clogged anyway. I have a Throttle Position Switch and Idle Air Control motor coming. Only senors left are the MAP Sensor and the OIL Safety Pressure Switch and Water Pressure Switch. (I know I am playing parts swapper but being 10 years old I just decided to update it all.) If Mercruiser would have made it so you could pull codes like in a car wit a REGULAR scan tool or even an LED this wouldn't be happening...thanks for screwing your customers Mercruiser...GRRR!!!
While we are on that subject, does anyone know a way to make the MPI system flash codes with an LED, similar to the older EFI vehicles used to do on the dash lights?
I unplugged and jumpered out the safety lanyard switch circuit (two purple wires)...no help.
I left my meter in my truck/tow vehicle (stupid me) so at the moment I don't have a way to measure any voltages but I will update later when I do.
I saw this on another forum:
NOTE: If any 5v sensor becomes shorted to ground the engine will not start. If the engine is operating when the short occurs the engine may stop operating and will not start.
I'll check that later but was curious if anyone has experienced this.
Beyond having NOT measured voltages have I missed something?
Any other information I can provide please ask.
Thanks
Danny
