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Malfunction lite/alarm

Becharoflodge

New member
I live in a remote area of Alaska. I have a new 90 hp honda outboard with remote shift control.I just put it on a skiff. After I started it up the first time. The malfunction lite and alarm sounds. What can I do? I've checked all the controls and don't see anything wrong?
 
Which light came on? Was the alarm a steady or an on and off alarm?

There are three initial things that it could be...

1. Your battery is bad or not up to the capacity required for the motor . It should be at least 600 cca capacity. 800cca would be better. They should be fully charged and clean and wrench tight connections.

2. It could be an oil warning. Sometimes on brand new motors, the first time it is started, it has not built up enough oil pressure and an alarm sounds. Once you try to start it a couple of times, the alarm goes away.

3. In transport or riggine, a sensor connector may have been jarred loose. Check all connectors on the wiring harness and make sure that they have a good connection and that they have not been broken in shipping or rigging.

Mike
 
I've ran the motor a few times out of the water with ears on. The motor sounds good, with plent of battery. All the lights on the remote shift go out ( the green oil lite stays on) but the malfunction light and alarm ( beeps) stays on. All else looks good. No mechanics or service out here. I have checked all plug ins. They seem ok?
 
Which malfunction light comes on? Overheat, Charge, or Check Engine? I am assuming you have four lights. If you only have two lights, then the only light left would be an overheat light.

Mike
 
It is time to check for codes.

See if you can find a red connector by the ECM. It is not plugged into anything, but the plug is inserted into a connector just for storage.

You have to pull that cover off the plug and using something like a paperclip, jumper from the black lead to the light green lead.

Once you do this, turn the key switch to on and count the flashes (long and short) on the malfunction indicator. Those codes will point to the trouble area.

Let us know what the count is.

Mike
 
If it is 7 short beeps. something wrong with throttle position sensor. sensor faulty,bad wire connection. just remove the TP sensor connector(hope you can find it left hand side of the throttle body three wire connector) and see whether wires are loose or corrode connector pin, clean with contact cleaner.connect back reset the ECU and test again.

very rarely found this sensor is faulty. if you can remove full throttle body and clean it well.


wajira
 
If it is 7 short beeps. something wrong with throttle position sensor. sensor faulty,bad wire connection. just remove the TP sensor connector(hope you can find it left hand side of the throttle body three wire connector) and see whether wires are loose or corrode connector pin, clean with contact cleaner.connect back reset the ECU and test again.

very rarely found this sensor is faulty. if you can remove full throttle body and clean it well.


wajira

Brand new motor had damage during shipping. We replaced the throttle body and tps. After clearing the code it starts and then idles down and the light comes back on and we get the 7 flash code. There is no damage to the connector we tested all the wires to the connector and they are all good. Could the brand new tps be defective? Or a bad connection? What is the resistance off the tps so we can check that. Thank you for the help!
 
I do not know of the resistances of the tp sensor.

There should be a fixed resistance between the two outer contacts. Then the resistance from the center contact to either of the outer contacts should vary from zero to the value of the fixed resistance.

Trace the leads for continuity all the way to the ECU. There is a joint where the green leads goes through. There may be an open there.

I am assuming, that from one of your past posts that you know how to clear the codes and have done that.

Mike
 
their should be Resistance but im not sure which pins, did you try with all 3 pins ? while turning the throttle resistance should be change. i will confirm the resistance value later.
 
It is very unusual for a potentiometer to have absolutely no resistance. Double check your meter and test it on a light bulb or something that has some resistance. If you are not still getting any resistance readings, I would contact the place where you purchased the throttle body assembly. If they know anything about their product, they will exchange it for another.

Mike
 
Tp.jpg check with digital ohm meter reading scale auto. throttle fully close -----1 +2 - 4.7 K ohms 1+3 -4.7 K ohms 2+3 - 0.7 K ohms

throttle fully open------ 1+2 -0.8 K ohms 1+3 - 4.8 K ohms 2+3 - 4.6 K ohms


hope its clear for you, may be reading will be bit different like .1 or .2 . make sure about your meter, because when i was try to check it first, i didn't get reading.
 
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