75 HP Evinrude (E75TRLCTE) with 2001 OMC Remote Control Unit

Hey guys,

I was wondering if someone might be able to help with a couple questions I have about this remote/motor combo posted in the title.

Basically I Replaced the power pack on this motor a while back because the motor would die after about 10 minutes or so of running, and when I tested it I was not getting a spark. After replacing it, the motor ran perfect for hours when I next used it, but I could not get any higher than idle speed. I initially thought it was the cable, but upon inspection found the gearing in the remote control was busted. someone I knew said they had a remote control unit that would work with my boat that I could get for $20, so I bought it.

The new control unit was an OMC (year 2001) which was different then my original unit (don't remember what the first one was). What I noticed when I was hard wiring the new control unit in, was that there was no light brown and light gray wire coming from control unit to connect to the wiring harness of the motor, but all the other wires seemed to match up.

My questions are, what are the light gray and light brown wire going to the motor used for? And, will this remote control work with my motor?

The reason I ask is that since I put the new remote control in, the engine will only start occasionally and instantly dies after about 1-2 seconds. Often I have to try starting it a ton of times before it fires.

When trying to start it a few times I tested the plugs to see if they were firing but could not get a spark. I know it has to be sparking at least sometimes though since it occasionally fires up for a second. My thoughts were that the kill switch/key switch are bad since the are the same piece, and since it ran fine prior to replacing the control.

If my OMC control and motor should work together, any thoughts on what the problem may be would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks All!

Gray wire should be for tach and brown should be for warning horn; JMO you might be having neutral start switch problems. Others should chime in with better suggestions. Good luck

if the motor turns over the neutral switch is ok...he starter solenoid will not pick if the neutral switch dont make..disconnect the green black wire going to the power pack to eliminate the kill switch....a inline disconnect is located under the cowl near the power pack...

the wire going to the kill switch should have no voltage on it...none..not even in the milli volts...if voltage is present then the new power pack may be blown of damaged..

lets get back to basics for a minute...the motor must turn 300 rpm to fire...then the fire must jump 7/16 inch with a good snap...a spark tester can be bought from your local auto store...cheap....
on the fuel side of it the starting procedure when cold is key..place in neutral...lift the throttle advance lever..push the key in and when you turn to start the fuel enrichment solenoid should pick and feed extra gas into the carbs..if the choke or fuel enrichment is not working you will get the results you are getting..

The following may not be your problem BUT it's something you absolutely should check.

Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)

The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.

With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.

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Thanks Guys,

I will try some of these things this week and let you all know what I find. Thank you again!!

Hey guys,

Just thought I would get back on to let you all know what it was. It turned out to be the ignition/kill switch in the remote control unit. Once I replaced it, the motor fired up without problem and stayed running.

Thank you all for your help. Take Care,