Honda 50 totally dead.

My 50 honda will not do anything. will not run crank or even click click. I suspect the ignition switch itself. When the key is turned on even the tilt trim indicator will not even come off the peg to "neutral". Even wonder if maybe battery cable kaput. Will kill switch ground out everything Start where?
battery is good. If I jumper straight to starter motor it runs starter

What is your serial number? You did not say if the motor is carbureted or fuel injected. The electrical has changed a little over the years.

Does the tilt switch work on the motor? On the shifter?

Check the 10 amp fuse on the engine. It feeds the power to the key switch in most of the models.

There should be 12v on the white/black lead going to the key switch.

When the key switch is turned on, there should be 12v on the black/yellow lead (which should apply power to your gauges).

Unless something really unusual happened in the wiring, the grounded out kill switch will just keep the motor from starting but the motor should still crank.

A cheap and dirty 12v test light should be all you need to find the problem.

Mike

Mike

Honda 50 totally dead

It is has carburetors, it is not EFI
S/ns are BAZE3014414 and BAZL40682510.
The tilt switch does no work either on engine or on control handle.
Visually the fuse looks Ok, will have checked with meter.

Where do I access black and white lead with out taking apart control box?

Again not sure on black and yellow but think that is dead to. As noted trim tilt needle does not move when key turned on.

Battery still good. rechecked with jumpers from battery direct to starter. one way starter spins but no bendix. reverse and starter spins and bendix jumps up and and engine cranks. Think leads on starter reversed.

Pleas note picture below an this maybe a major portion of problem. My son advises black an white wire here broken off. He re-attached at stub of orage wire showing above. Where should bl/w wire attach. I am thinking there must be a loose orange (yellow) wire in there some where. This is rough as he and I are working from separate locations but phone and email just like you and I. I am even suspicious one of the bqar i





and fly wheel turns.

hondadude said:

What is your serial number? You did not say if the motor is carbureted or fuel injected. The electrical has changed a little over the years.

Does the tilt switch work on the motor? On the shifter?

Check the 10 amp fuse on the engine. It feeds the power to the key switch in most of the models.

There should be 12v on the white/black lead going to the key switch.

When the key switch is turned on, there should be 12v on the black/yellow lead (which should apply power to your gauges).

Unless something really unusual happened in the wiring, the grounded out kill switch will just keep the motor from starting but the motor should still crank.

A cheap and dirty 12v test light should be all you need to find the problem.

Mike

Mike

Click to expand...

It is has carburetors, it is not EFI
S/ns are BAZE3014414 and BAZL40682510.
The tilt switch does no work either on engine or on control handle.
Visually the fuse looks Ok, will have checked with meter.

Where do I access black and white lead with out taking apart control box?

Again not sure on black and yellow but think that is dead to. As noted trim tilt needle does not move when key turned on.

Battery still good. rechecked with jumpers from battery direct to starter. one way starter spins but no bendix. reverse and starter spins and bendix jumps up and and engine cranks. Think leads on starter reversed.

Pleas note picture below and this maybe a major portion of problem. My son advises black an white wire here broken off. He re-attached at stub of orage wire showing above. Where should bl/w wire attach. I am thinking there must be a loose orange (yellow) wire in there some where. This is rough as he and I are working from separate locations by phone and email just like you and I. I am even suspicious one of the battery cables bad or switch





.

The black and white lead goes into the starter solinoid (the black plastic thing with two terminals on it). I think you found your major trouble spot. If you can not reattach the black/white lead (since it goes directly into the solinoid), you will need a new solinoid. Part # 17
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/1999/BF50AX LRTA/STARTER MOTOR/parts.html

I can not tell a lot from the picture, other than that area is a mess.

It is the main distribution point for the power to your engine. It also supplies the power directly to the trim unit, so that you can operate the trim switch on the side of the engine.

You should get 12v between the terminal that the large red wire is going to and ground before anything else can happen.

Mike

hondadude said:

The black and white lead goes into the starter solinoid (the black plastic thing with two terminals on it). I think you found your major trouble spot. If you can not reattach the black/white lead (since it goes directly into the solinoid), you will need a new solinoid. Part # 17
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/1999/BF50AX LRTA/STARTER MOTOR/parts.html

I can not tell a lot from the picture, other than that area is a mess.

It is the main distribution point for the power to your engine. It also supplies the power directly to the trim unit, so that you can operate the trim switch on the side of the engine.

You should get 12v between the terminal that the large red wire is going to and ground before anything else can happen.

Mike

Click to expand...

In fact if I remember that starter solenoid is not even a Honda unit. There is no Honda dealer per se on island and wr jury rigged a Yamaha or Suzuki one
back around s 2008 or so. This engine is nominally 10 years old, but heck you see my 15 hp it is over 21 years old. AND the environment here is vicious.
I will get to you suggestion in a day or two.

Any comparable solenoid should work. Just make sure all cable ends are clean and that the solenoid has enough clearance.

Mike