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NO spark AQ120b

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YellowYaro said:
It's ALIVE!

Thanks for all the help
now for the fine tuning.
You have an old mechanically advancing ignition system. Flyweight return springs can become compromised by rust.... causing the spring value to change.
When you adjust for BASE advance, take it further and see what the progressive and total advance are as you increase rpm.
Too much advance and/or too early, and you'll have trouble...... serious trouble!

And to find a throttle cable
This will be a Morse or Teleflex 33 C style cable. Easy to find.
The length will be in the code that is embossed into the cable jacket.
Click to expand...
 
Even though I had no input on this thread, let me thank YellowYaro on behalf of Rick and Gary and the others who did post, for the "its alive" update. All to often folks on this forum spend significant time helping others and the only way they find out things are "fixed" is the absence of further posts.
 
Last edited:
It's ALIVE!

Thanks for all the help
now for the fine tuning.
You have an old mechanically advancing ignition system. Flyweight return springs can become compromised by rust.... causing the spring value to change.
When you adjust for BASE advance, take it further and see what the progressive and total advance are as you increase rpm.
Too much advance and/or too early, and you'll have trouble...... serious trouble!


And to find a throttle cable
This will be a Morse or Teleflex 33 C style cable. Easy to find.
The length will be in the code that is embossed into the cable jacket.
Click to expand...

i have a post from another thread of yours saved regarding base/advance/total with all the numbers.. So I'll reference that.


i have no throttle cable at the moment, boat didnt come with one, I can just measure the length from throttle to carb it doesn't have I be exact right?
Also I believe I have the old morse not sure what the difference between the teleflex 33 but it is one with two knobs comin off it. One for throttle arm and the other for ...? Gear selection but is there supposed to be an arm to attach to it?

could I use a different single arm controller that shifts and throttles from a newer boat or is that just asking for problems


Also any advice on checks I can do on the 270 before trying to run it (in gear) besides oil, hoping the impeller will be ok. Any way I can check that before shredding it
 
Even though I had no input on this thread, let me thank YellowYaro on behalf of Rick and Gary and the others who did post, for the "its alive" update. All to often folks on this forum spend significant time helping others and the only way they find out things are "fixed" is the absence of further posts.
Click to expand...

no problem. It was just a matter of aligning all pulleys w/ their corresponding marks @compression stroke TDC #1 cyl.
far too often when I look for info on a thread with a similar problem the original poster rarely states the problem being resolved
 
It sure is nice when you get a motor running good for sure. Every once in a while someone will show a video of it running as well.
Click to expand...

i've tried posting the video of it running but having problems

anyone know what length throttle cable I need for a morse controller on a 18' bayliner quartermaster
i measured out about 10ft but I'm not sure the proper routing for the cable and might 10ft might end up short and the other common one I see is 13ft.
 
boatdoc55 said:
That side draft Solex is only good for the trash can. Pull it off and rebuild it. I'm sure it's gummed up from sitting. Once you get it running and use the boat be on the look out for a AQ125 intake and carb, much, much better. Some will say go with a Webber but I've had real good luck with the down draft Solex carbs over the years.
Click to expand...


Heh, the down drafts aren't much better either! I did the same thing with the downdraft set up on my AQ120 and it ran better but still enough issues even after having it rebuilt I just bought another low hour carb and VOILA! No issues so far.

Don't forget with the electronic ignitor system you need to remove the purple wire from the coil to the dizzy and wire the ignitor direct which it sounds like you have. If there is a wire break between the ignition and the engine, by-pass it with a direct start button and eliminate or prove that. Sometimes wires or ignition switches get old and fail. The wiring system on these old VP boats is pretty simple. Down load a good wiring diagram to guide you.
 
Oops I only went to the bottom of the first page looks like you resolved your issues. One side note on the belt tensioners, the VP manual tells you to let the tensioner tighten on it's own, but I've had belts flop around and jump teeth postion. I say re-tension it and give the tensioner a bit of help with a pry bar before tightening it. If the belt jumps your timing will start moving further and further off. Since the dizzy is turned off of the couonter shaft, when the belt jumps it's that shaft that will be affected. I was pulling my hair out a couple of years ago with this problem when i discovered the belt jumping around but only at higher RPMs.
 
pugetsounder said:
One side note on the belt tensioners, the VP manual tells you to let the tensioner tighten on it's own, but I've had belts flop around and jump teeth postion. I say re-tension it and give the tensioner a bit of help with a pry bar before tightening it.
Click to expand...


I agree! Give the tensioner a bit of extra Ummmph.
The belt will stretch a small amount, and this will help.




.
 
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