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97 Johnson 150 fast strike

M

Monzass24

New member
The engine seems to idle good but when you give it gas under a load it want go at all. I changed the plugs and still not any better. The compression on all cylinders is between 100-110. It appears to be getting plenty of fuel. There is not any smoke when you start it up and I didn't know if the VRO had a safety mechanism that would cause this. Looking for suggestion on what to do next.
 
It won't go at all... means what?

The engine races up and the boat does not move?... the engine hesitates and dies out?... explain, describe what the engine is doing when throttle is applied.
 
If you put the engine in forward gear and give it gas to get on plane the engine want build any rpm up. When you apply the gas the engine runs rougher and you may get a slight increase in speed (1MPH) with the gas being applied. The engine seems normal while idling. If you put It in neutral it will rev a third of the way (2500 rpms or so) but is rough.
 
You need to determine if all of the cylinders are firing... sounds like there aren't.

Take a compression reading of all cylinders. What are the psi readings of the individual cylinders?

With all of the spark plugs removed, and using a spark tester where you can set a 7/16" gap for the spark to jump... the spark should jump that gap with a wide strong lightning like flame... a real SNAP! Does it?
 
I checked all the cylinders with a 7/16 gap and 3 of the 6 don't have a spark. The compression readings on all cylinders were between 100-110. Does this mean the power pack is bad? The model number is j150glera.
 
Monzass24 said:
I checked all the cylinders with a 7/16 gap and 3 of the 6 don't have a spark. The compression readings on all cylinders were between 100-110. Does this mean the power pack is bad? The model number is j150glera.
Click to expand...


Since all the cylinders are not firing do I need yo replace the power pack?
 
If that model has a shift interrupter switch, disconnect the black/yellow wire from it that leads to the powerpack, then recheck the spark. If you now have spark on all six cylinders... the shift interrupter switch is stuck closed.

If there is no shift interrupter switch on that model, check all of the rubber pin/socket plugs associated with the ignition. It's possible that some of the pins/sockets have been pushed back so that they are not making proper contact.

If the pin/socket contacts are as they should be, the most likely suspect would be the powerpack.
 
Standing at the back of the motor looking toward the front of the boat the right side has good spark. The left side bottom has never had spark while checking. The top left spark plug has had intermittent spark . The middle left side has no spark. There is also arching on the right side middle coil next to the bolt that holds the coil. No change when you disconnect the shift interrupt switch.
 
NOTE: Standing in back of the engine, facing the spark plugs, your right side would be "Starboard"... your left side being "Port". The shift interrupter switch would affect "only" the starboard bank.

The spark is to be checked with "all" spark plugs removed... and the spark must jump a 7/16" gap with a strong blue lightning like flame, a real SNAP! You can buy a gapable tester at any automotive parts store... or make one as described here.

(Spark Tester - Home Made)
(J. Reeves)

You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.


Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:




..........X1..........X2


.................X..(grd)


..........X3..........X4

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1

Be sure to check all electrical connections.

(Electrical Pins/Sockets - Poor Connection)
(J. Reeves)

The electrical rubber connectors that house a series of Pins and Sockets within them have a flaw which can easily be overlooked. The the pin or socket (or both) has been known to be pushed back slightly when pulling them apart and pushing them back together when replacing a component or doing test work.

Also, the wire that is attached to these pins and sockets has been known to break away from the pins/sockets which results in either a very poor or no connection at all. I've found many instances where the wire is held tight in the rubber connector by pure friction but in reality is not making any connection.

Be sure to check all of those rubber plugs for the proper pin/socket position and wiring attachments.



Another common failure of the powerpack is caused by the following voltage leakage:

Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)

The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.


Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.


Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.


With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.


Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.


If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!


Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
Last edited:
I purchased a gap tester and set it to 7/16 gap. It works well. The model number of the engine is j150glera. I want to purchase a power pack and plug wires. When I put the model number in the system it comes up a 94
 
Monzass24 said:
The model number of the engine is j150glera. When I put the model number in the system it comes up a 94
Click to expand...

Model number J150GLERA indicates that your engine is indeed a 1994 150hp Johnson. OMC's code is the word INTRODUCES whereas each letter stands for a number ie......
I= 1
N=2
T=3 etc etc.

The "ER" within that model number indicates 94 (1994)

J= Johnson
150= Horsepower (150)
ER= 94
C= Factory casting number of no importance or consequence.
 
I purchased a power pack and plug wires and installed it. The motor ran better so I went to the lake. It still would not get on plane. So I investigated a little farther and realized that the throttle linkage was not moving. The square rod and the plastic piece that hits the carb linkage was broke. I took that off and realized that there is an adjustment on top that has a roller wheel on it that I assume hits another piece of linkage that advances the timing as you give it gas. How do I just the linkage correctly. I put a clap on the broken piece and went to the lake and the boat ran well. It defiantly needed the power pack and plug wires. Marine engine was great to order parts from. I was impressed
 
Since I retired in 1991, I"m not familiar with the linkages on the model. Either some other member will need to guide you thru that setup... OR... assuming that you intend to keep that engine for awhile, I'd recommend that you obtain a specific service manual for it.
 
joereeves said:
Since I retired in 1991, I"m not familiar with the linkages on the model. Either some other member will need to guide you thru that setup... OR... assuming that you intend to keep that engine for awhile, I'd recommend that you obtain a specific service manual for it.
Click to expand...



Thank you for your help
 
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