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88 spl with weak spark

Hydro57

Member
I'm new to this forum and have done a lot of reading to determine the best route to take from here. I haven't been able to locate any recommendations on what direction to head in for a "weak" spark condition across the board in any of the CDI literature I have read.

Spark test results average roughly 1/16"-1/8" jump (far from the recommended 7/16"). The battery is fully charged and as far as I can tell the flywheel RPM's are exceeding the necessary 300 range.

Any recommendations on what may be causing the condition? Stator? Power pack? Do the symptoms point in one direction more than the other?

Thanks very much for any help!
 
Have you got a multi-meter and a DVA ?? You'll need these to check outputs. It could be either the pack or the stator.
 
Have you got a multi-meter and a DVA ?? You'll need these to check outputs. It could be either the pack or the stator.

I have a Fluke digital MM but no DVA adapter. Is there an adapter you recommend? Amazon has a couple of options...ES for $23 and CDI for $70...big difference in price!

Does anyone know if the ES is reliable?

Thanks Boobie!
 
If you want to do this work yourself, you may have to spend some $$$$. Cheaper than going to a dealer.
 
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You can make your own with a capacitor, resistor and diode. Your just measuring the peak voltages, the cap charges up and the resistor bleeds it off I imagine the cheap one will work just fine. There are a few videos on making a peak voltage adaptor you just need to be real careful around the high voltage the stator produces. First thing would be to pull the flywheel and inspect the stator for tar melting off of it and look at the magnets on the flywheel are good and tight.
http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/IS-113-4028.pdf
http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/IS-173-3536.pdf

Thanks very much...I'll order the adapter and follow the recommended steps.
 
Spark Test: With the spark plugs removed, the engine must crank over at least 300 rpm (fast). Using a spark tester, set the gap to 7/16"... the spark should jump this gap with a strong blue lightning like flame... a real SNAP! If no tester is available, you can use a #2 philips screwdriver inserted into the spark plug spring connector located within the plug rubber boot, then hold the screwdriver shank that approximate distance away from the powerhead block.

If doing this test as suggested, the spark is still as you say... weak, visually inspect the stator under the flywheel closely for cracks and especially a sticky looking substance dripping down on the timer base and powerhead area. If this condiiton exists... replace the stator as this would result in a voltage drop from the stator to the powerpack capacitor which would result in exactly what you stated... weak spark/ignition.

If the stator checks out okay, double check all of the rubber plug connectors as the pins sockets have been know to back out slightly or become slightly dirty, resulting in weird happenings.... weak spark.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.html?_dmd=1&_ipg=50&_sop=12&_rdc=1
 
Thanks Joe!

Here are my DVA outputs...

Stator...
Brown to Brown/Yellow = 174

Timer Base...
White to Purple = 2.3
White to Blue = 2.4
White to Green = 2.2
White to Pink = 2.3

Time to order a new Pack?
 
http://www.cdielectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/IS-113-4028.pdf
Have you tested the outputs from the PP to the coils and resistance internal in the PP. From what I am seeing is the stator and trigger are doing their job confirm it is the PP before buying a new one. Have you cleaned all the grounds including the components that use the mount for a ground?

All grounds have been cleaned including the components that use the mount for a ground. I have not tested the outputs from the PP to the coils and resistance internal in the PP. I assumed that since all (4) cylinders where producing the exact same weak 1/16" spark that it was the PP.

I read the troubleshooting guide you attached but can't figure out how to "Check the DVA output on the orange wires from the powerpack while connected to the ignition coil" same with resistance testing. Where do I connect my DVA leads?

Thanks very much!
 
I just checked the DVA output of all orange wires from the PP to the coils (by connecting black to ground and red to the spark plug terminal extender? Got 27 VDC on all (4)
 
if you decide to put a new power pack on you should disconnect the wire going to the kill switch and make sure there is zero voltage on the wire going to the switch......any voltage there will kill the new power pack also...no voltage should be there at all..zero...
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if you decide to put a new power pack on you should disconnect the wire going to the kill switch and make sure there is zero voltage on the wire going to the switch......any voltage there will kill the new power pack also...no voltage should be there at all..zero...
\

Will do...Power Pack is on it's way...thanks!
 
Okay...installed the new Sierra power pack tonight (no voltage anywhere). Performed a spark test and only the lead going to the #1 cylinder (orange with blue stripe) jumped the 7/16" gap on the tester.

I swapped the spark plug wires and ignition coils around in every possible combination and bottom line is all of the ignition coils and spark plug wire checked out fine but only the orange with blue strip lead was producing the required result.

Any other ideas? Bad Powerpack?

Thanks again for any feedback.
 
Thanks Boobie.

I think the issue may have been my spark tester...I back probed all (4) orange connectors coming from the PP as kimcrwbr1 had recommended and got 175-200v so I figured I give it a shot firing her up.

The motor started and ran perfect!...for 5 minutes. I was standing behind the boat observing and noticed steam coming off of the tell tail. I ran up to shut off the ignition and heard the overheat horn.

Any suggestions on where to start?

As always, thanks in advance.
 
I fixed the overheat problem...loose hose clamp and probably didn't help I was running on muffs for that long.

Motor is now in a large barrel and running perfect when the kill switch (black/yellow) is disconnected from the power pack. Obviously the motor won't shut off without it being connected so the second I reconnect it to shut it down it begins to miss and ultimately dies.

I tried disconnecting the ground from the kill switch (read that would work)...no luck. I tried splicing the the two yellow/black wires at the kill switch together...no luck.

Am I correct that I am now down to the key switch and the circuit itself? For some reason I have in my head that it is not the key switch because when I turn it to off it immediately kills the motor. I'm sure I'm wrong though!

Thanks to anyone willing to help...
 
At the ignition switch.... If there are any other wires attached to that Black/Yellow "M" terminal, especially "ground" wires leading from various accessories, remove them as that allows ground voltage leaving those various accessories to flow into the kill circuit of the powerpack. Ground them elsewhere properly.

If no other wires are attached there... remove the black/yellow kill circuit wire temporarily, turn the key to the ON/RUN position (engine NOT running), then check for any voltage that may exist at that "M" terminal. Have the meter set so that it would register the smallest amount as even a microvolt would eventually damage the powerpack. If any voltage registers... replace the ignition switch.

A quicker voltage test.... Have the black/yellow wire attached to the powerpack as it is normally. Disconnect the black/yellow wire from the "M" terminal of the ignition switch. If the engine runs fine with that wire disconnected from the switch BUT acts up when you reattach it... then, obviously you have a ignition switch OR ground wire problem.
 
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The boat is equipped with a rotary battery switch...I always shut that off when working on anything. I assume that is sufficient?

thanks!
 
did you check that kill switch line for voltage?you should read zero...absolutely no voltage...ii any is present you are going to blow another pp...and with the lanyard in place there should be infinity to ground...you must use a meter for this check..a power light wont cut it...
 
sorry joe for repeating what you typed but i want to make sure he reads it...its has now been mentioned 3 times...he is right at the root cause and i dont want him buying another pp....
 
did you check that kill switch line for voltage?you should read zero...absolutely no voltage...ii any is present you are going to blow another pp...and with the lanyard in place there should be infinity to ground...you must use a meter for this check..a power light wont cut it...

At the ignition switch.... If there are any other wires attached to that Black/Yellow "M" terminal, especially "ground" wires leading from various accessories, remove them as that allows ground voltage leaving those various accessories to flow into the kill circuit of the powerpack. Ground them elsewhere properly.

If no other wires are attached there... remove the black/yellow kill circuit wire temporarily, turn the key to the ON/RUN position (engine NOT running), then check for any voltage that may exist at that "M" terminal. Have the meter set so that it would register the smallest amount as even a microvolt would eventually damage the powerpack. If any voltage registers... replace the ignition switch.

A quicker voltage test.... Have the black/yellow wire attached to the powerpack as it is normally. Disconnect the black/yellow wire from the "M" terminal of the ignition switch. If the engine runs fine with that wire disconnected from the switch BUT acts up when you reattach it... then, obviously you have a ignition switch OR ground wire problem.

Thank you both again for the advise.

To your point papyson, I won’t even think about reconnecting the kill circuit to the PP until I have this resolved…thanks again. And once I tie the system back together that will be the first thing I test.

Here is what I tested last night based on the above advice…


First, I verified that there were no other wires connected to the black/yellow “M” terminal (there were other ground wires attached to theother “M” or ground terminal but I assume that is acceptable/necessary).


Then I removed the black/yellow kill circuit wire, turned the key to the on/run position and read voltage between the two “M” terminals…it read 13 VDC.

I also verified that the kill switch was functioning properly by checking continuity while it was removed from the system (read between eachblack/yellow and the black with and without the lanyard in place).

Replace the ignition switch? Or did I perform one or more ofthe above test incorrectly?


Again, I can’t thank you all enough for your help and patience.
 
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With the Black/Yellow wire disconnected from the related "M" terminal, and the volt meter leads connected between that "M" terminal and a ground.... is the RED (positive +) lead attached to the "M" Terminal while the meter reads 13v?

If so, either that ignition switch is shorted or it's wired incorrectly.
 
Yes, with the switch in the "RUN" position and the black/yellow wire disconnected from its "M" terminal and my red/positive lead attached to said terminal and my black/negative lead attached to the other "M" ground terminal I am getting 13VDC
 
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Yes, with the switch in the "RUN" position and the black/yellow wire disconnected from its "M" terminal and my red/positive lead attached to said terminal and my black/negative lead attached to the other "M" ground terminal I am getting 13VDC

And the engine IS NOT running I assume. If so, something is very wrong.

Temporarily remove all of the other ground wires from the other "M" terminal, EXCEPTING the plain ground wire. Retest as before with the meter. If you still get that 13v reading which I think is extremely high... that switch is faulty.

Thirteen volts applied to that circuit is enough to blow the powerpack instantly! I've never encountered that before.
 
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