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Video of a BF225 not starting-rapid beeping alarm

Did you check the batteries? How about taking the kill switch lanyards out and moving the switch a couple times, then reinstall? By separator, are you talking about a racer filter or the float switch on the stbd side of the engine? When was the last time the engines started without the beeping issue?
 
Thanks for the feedback. The batteries are good, the port side starts fine with the same battery. I can play with the kill switch some more but if the kill switch is the issue, the engine will sound like it's turning over without the beeping. I'm just hoping the sounds and the lights I took a video of will tell more of a story to those who have had the same thing happen or fixed a similar probem.
 
Did you check the float in the bowl on the stbd side? Any water? Are you having any water issues with your fuel? Also, have you checked to see if there are any codes?
 
That almost sounds like low voltage issue , might check battery terminals I had issue with connection on terminalsdue to green ccorrosion under plastic boot protecting terminal so couldn't see it until pulled boot back on terminals replaced terminal ring on battery presto. Had issues with filters in past never made that sound just engines ran like starved for fuel
 
I finally can take some time off work to look at this again. My game plan tomorrow is to clean and brush all my terminal ends, connect the engine so no other wires exept for the S1 from the switch and the ground direct from engine is on the new battery. If that doesn't work, clean out both my fuel bowls on the engine and the filter screens, release and press the kill switch five times with the key on to reset the fault codes and if it still isn't working...sell the boat or at least trade in the engines-lol
 
Hang in there we have all been there :). Can't wait to hear what gremlin it was my money is voltage issue..really surprised none of the regulars have commented yet
 
I've never heard that sound from a Honda engine before. I agree with Jamie, it's likely a voltage problem, but it may be in the key switch itself. That is definitely NOT the sound you would hear from having water in the onboard fuel/water separator.
 
Well I know you were all on the edge of your seats but I did fix the problem! After working a little more on the electrical side of the issue based on your replies, and it was an easier troubleshooting route to take, for me anyway, I managed to have started it up. It turns out there seems to be a short somewhere because when I took off all the ground connections off of the battery except for the negative to the engine it started up fine. When I reconnect the ground wire from the primary battery for the starboard to the house battery it acts ups again. Except for the engine harnesses themselves, even though they have a lot of dead ends hanging, I'm going to start chasing down wires and building my own harnesses anyway because the ProSport Prokats are notorious for their mediocre quality.
 
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What model Prokat is that? The dash looks different than my 2660 but not the same as my buddy's 2860.
 
Ep4 said:
What model Prokat is that? The dash looks different than my 2660 but not the same as my buddy's 2860.
Click to expand...

EP4,
Just saw your question, I've been on the marine electrical systems boards (hulltruth.etc.)lately for obvious reasons-lol I have a Prokat 3660 but these are not the original panels. I custom made my own using 1/16 wood veneer 2-ply engraveable panels with adhesive backing from B.F. Plastics adhered to 1/4 Starboard. The "Labels" are actually engraved by a local trophy shop. They turned out OK given my limited carpentry skills but I want to finish them with some nice edging.
 
You can check for trouble codes by purchasing a jumper to plug into the service connector on the engine. It can Also be done with a paperclip but you have to be careful you are jumping the two correct terminals. One jumped the light on your ignition panel flashes in a sequence, giving a number that can be looked up to specify an issue. The instructions and the list of codes has been posted many times on this board so you should be able to search for it.
 
Bob - send an e-mail to me at [email protected] and I will return documents that tell you exactly how to pull codes and what the codes mean. For that procedure to work, you need to have the four-light key switch or the 2 X 2 type key switch - oil pressure (green), alternator (red), overheat (red) and MIL or check engine light (red.)

Having said that, if you are getting the same rapid sound shown in the video by Khobomber at the beginning of this thread, that is not a "water in the separator" problem but a low voltage/bad ground problem.
 
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