foward throttle spins propeller shaft clockwise, Reverse throttle spins propeller shaft clockwise

2003, 350 Mag, Bravo III sterndrive, the drive was working the last time I used it.<br>
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I just changed throttle assembly do to fix a bad neutral lock. now installed and appears to be working properly.<br>
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When I went to install the sterndrive the Shift Cable Linkage Assembly would not extend from the drive. In face it kept slipping back into it housing, I opened the teeth and I believe the shift cable in seated correctly, but not sure, It should easily pull out and stay out.<br>
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With drive now installed I start engine and move the throttle into forward the propeller shaft turns clockwise.<br>
Throttle in neutral it stops<br>
Throttle in reverse the propeller shafts turns the same direction clockwise again.<br>
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I believe I am not shifting into reverse.<br>
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When looking at the shift cables inside the bilge as I move throttle into forward to neutral to reverse I believe they move as should be (going opposite directions) boat starts when throttle is in the neutral position, so I believe my throttle at the helm is mounted correctly.<br>
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What do you know about Shifter Assembly in the sterndrive?<br>
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Would this effect forward and reverse?<br>
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What do you think?<br>
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I do not know about cables moving, cables are moving with the movement of throttle with regard to forward and reverse movements made at the helm.

Shifter Assembly is my thought because the propeller is spinning in forward postion

where you in NEUTRAL when you installed the outdrive? If you pulled the drive and it was not in neutral that could be your issue.

And NO it is not easy to shift a bravo by hand. Infact it is not easy to shift with the control handle when it is not running.


was the shift link sticking out of the drive with the fingers open?

Explain in more detail what you did, start to finsh..........not enough detail.......only questions.

ok, i installed new handle assembly neutral lock was wasted, no lock between neutral and drive. Merc. 4000 gen ii pistol grip w/ neutral shift under the fingers.

I know if neutral is not engaged then the boat will not start. boat starts with new shifter in neutral position.

tap shifter into forward/drive, shift cables move on top of engine block. tap shifter into reverse shift cable moves opposite direction, throttle cable also moves from as directed full or idle.

before installing stern drive, I went to put on new o-rings, add non corrosion lube to shift cable pocket and pull the jaws of shift linkage out.
linkage was stiff and did not want to easily come forward and didn't pull all the way out of its pocket. I was able to open jaws but only 60% out of pocket. I don't believe normal.

I continued to install the drive, lube and muffs engine runs. throttle assembly moves forward and reverse. shift cables around engine all move. propeller shaft only turns clockwise.

and that the problem.

drive might not of been in neutral when installed as I was working with Handle assembly. the shift cable appeared normal distance when mounting.
I now know for sure drive is in neutral because the engine will start with handle in neutral lock position. so I could reinstall the drive.


No shift link didn't want to come forward easily as in the past, I believe the cable is in the jaws because I have a spinning propeller shaft. correct.

i am thinking Shift assembly which connects the shift linkage?

3-legged-dog said:

drive might not of been in neutral when installed as I was working with Handle assembly. the shift cable appeared normal distance when mounting.
I now know for sure drive is in neutral because the engine will start with handle in neutral lock position. so I could reinstall the drive.

Click to expand...

Just because the engine starts does not mean the drive is in neutral, It means the shift control is in neutral. The drive does not care if it is in gear or not and either does the ignitoon. The neutral saftey switch is what determines this in the shift control box.

Start over, remove the drive, make sure it is in neutral after removing it. Have shift control in neutral and try reassembling it.


I have seen the linkage in the outdrive get pretty bad due to salt and corrosion so be aware that you may have to dig deeper there to be sure all is ok.

I will reinstall the drive. to make sure drive is in neutral. I will start engine put drive into forward propeller shaft will spin. when I go back to neutral with the control the shift handle and propeller shaft stops spinning. Will the drive be in the neutral position? If not how would I confirm drive is in neutral?

have you ever replaced the linkage? is it safe/easy to do for a boat owner to do? is it do able? I guess I order all the related parts and start working.

Kghost,

I pulled the drive and tried to reinstall, tried to pull shift linkage out again, picture shows the max. limit of extension it was a fail. So i brought sterndrive back home. findings and pictures to follow.

with top and back cover removed the shift assembly long arm was in a far back position and yoke shifter was in a far left position, it moved freely from left to center, but not past centerline of the drive, This you know it attaches to shift linkage assembly, thus keeping the shift linkage from coming forward.

I lightly lifted and teased yoke cam assembly and pushed/pulled the shift linkage and now have finger easy movement of shift linkage to proper position to reach barrel and shift cable.

shift linkage moves forward and back, yoke assembly is now on the right hand side of drive and moves freely between right and centerllne of drive. Yoke assembly does not want to move past centerline of drive freely, it will do it if forced and yoke assembly is teased.

thoughts,

I know the final test is to put back on the drive and run forward and reverse, just want to avoid an unnecessary breakdown on the water.

pictures In next post.

what is dark brown material on top cover of ring surface and under side of top cover.

First I will say that a cone clutch shift system as this does not move easily when not spinning. This is why it MUST be in neutral when removing drive.

I am not sure what all that dark stuff is?????


The link that goes thru the housing and has the fingers on it....have you removed it?

This link can corrode badly and cause shifting issues. It gets very sloppy.

I would gear oil the crap out of the cone assembly and grease the crap out of the linkage that is not exposed to gear oil and see if that help.

other wise the cap has to come off and inspect the cone clutch assembly.

Also that double disk assembly that pushes the cone clutch can wear have you looked at that?

because of my level of experience, unless a part would be visibly broken or visible wear, color change in metal parts scrapes or shavings, I would not know the difference. bad excuse, its what I am going with for now. from my viewing, no sign of corrosion but I will pack every orifice with non corrosive for sure and gear lube to max.

I going to go with your notion of Drive not neutral and cone clutch system not easy to move when not under a working load condition. I am going to reinstall the drive and shift her a few thousand times and watch the response of the propeller shaft. it should spin both ways. if it doesn't I go back in. to get into the cone cluch and beyond I have to remove the ring nut and would need to buy special tool. I will update the post on my findings.

Look here for a parts break down.

In the cone clutch assembly, Items 21 X 2 is a spring that is part of the shifting if you will, if one of those springs is sprung or teaked shifting will be screwed up. Other wise the if the cone surface is beat or severlay worn then it will not shift well at all.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/m...9/driveshaft-housing-and-drive-gears-standard

Look here for shift linkage pictures parts break down.

http://www.marineengine.com/parts/m...iversal-joint-and-shifter-components-standard

Items 14 and 15 would be the linkage I refer to. If 14 is beat up and corroded and is a loose fit to item 15 that will create bad shifting.

thanks I will, I saw the spring in selco book and in a video posted online. Please confirm in order to inspect cone clutch assm. I will have to unscrew the large ring nut holding yoke assem.. I can just don't own the tool as of yet.

or can I inspect by removing the yoke assem. can I remove and install without special tool?

also if I can see springs after Yoke Assm. has been removed can install springs without removing gears, do the spring open apart and close to make a circle.

One step at a time...

Reinstall and see if all is ok

if not remove and look at linkage first.

spring/cone clutch will be the last resort.

Tuesday night my dinner date with the sterndrive, I reset the shift cable at the bilge and bell housing, I reinstalled the drive with the shift Linkage Jaws moving freely forward. Throttle shift assembly now in place and in neutral, boat starts from neutral position. I have forward and reverse spinning motions on the propeller shaft and I am able to shift into drive and reverse. repeatedly with RPM change.

conclusion,
Sterndrive shift linkage assemble and Yoke cam and Yoke shifter became jammed in between the forward and reverse gear and held in the jammed position by the back cover and the Detent Assembly and unable to right itself from the Controls Throttle Shift Assembly. possibly a wear issue for concern or user error.

fix.
removed top and back cover assembly on the upper drive, teased by hand side to side the U-Joint/Yoke Assembly while giving vertical lift to the Yoke/cam assembly. which freed the shift assembly to correct position.

sea trial will be next and slow going.




Thanks,