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Honda BF150 Won't Start

M

mlc

Member
Hello All,

I am a new boat owner and have heard really good things about this forum.

Onto my problem, I have a 2006 bf150 and it will not start. I get NO click, click, click, ZERO!!!!

What I know: the battery is good, I had it bench tested, and I cleaned off the terminals. I checked the 90A large fuse and it looked okay, I did not have a tester with me but I would think if a fuse that large blew you would notice it. I checked all of the other smaller fuses in the fuse box and they seemed good as well. All of the electronics on the boat work, fish finder, gauges, lights, even the tilt motor worked fine. The safety switch clip was in place.

The light next to the battery with the (+ and -) symbols was showing solid red when I turned the key one position. I did work the gear/throttle back and forth in and out of neutral. Now I have to admit I am a new owner and when moving the boat around I did have some "interesting" moments when I had a little problem getting it in and out of forward and reverse to move the boat around and lets just say I was a little less then gentle with it. The motor ran no problem the last time I had it out but I didn't try and start it after I shut it off last time.

So, I guess my first question is could I have damaged the neutral switch (or whatever it is that tells the boat it is okay to start the motor) and if that is damaged would that cause the issue I described if you do feel like that could be it how would I go about checking it.

If you don't feel like that would be it is there something else to check.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Kevin
 
You probably did not damage the neutral safety switch.

You should be able to see the neutral safety switch on the lower front of the engine. If the neutral safety switch #22 is not depressed, the motor will not crank. http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF150A6 LA/SHIFT SHAFT/parts.html

A couple of basic things need to be checked....when you turn the key switch to on, does the alarm beep twice and the warning lights come on for two seconds?

Do the gauges come on?

If yes to both questions, then you have power to the keyswitch and it is sending power back to the ECM and turning it on.

If the neutral switch is not depressed when the shifter is in neutral, then the shift cable end needs to be adjusted.

It is possible that you have some shifter issues, cable issues, or motor shift linkage issues.

....or that simple adjustment will fix your problem.

If you get the shift adjusted and there is still no click, then you still could have a bad fuse or main relay (main relay provides power to the motor when you turn the key on and there is also a relay in it that operates the starter when you turn the keyswitch to start.

If you get the beeps etc, then your fuses are ok. There are no fuses between the battery and the starter. One fuse provides the voltage to the keyswitch, then the voltage goes to the starting relay (in addition to other places..not pertinent to this problem).

In all this, I am assuming that you have a Honda Brand shifter. Some dealers/boat builders have rigged Hondas with a Mercury or Universal shifter (which also have a neutral safety switch in the shifter). That neutral safety switch should not be used with a Honda, since the Honda has one on the motor. If the switch in the shifter is wired in, it causes issues, since both neutral safety switches sometimes get out of sync and no matter what you do, the motor will not start.

One other thing. If the motor is not running, only shift the motor when someone is physically turning the prop. Otherwise the clutchdog and the gears do not alway sync up and you will not be able to shift, but may try to force it, causing more issues.

You should not have to turn the prop when shifting out of gear to neutral.

There's a start for you.

Mike
 
Hello Mike,

Thanks for the excellent reply.

First, yes the alarm beeps twice and the lights do come on for 2 seconds and go out.

Yes the gauges are working.

It is a Honda brand shifter.

I just downloaded the shop manual, I am assuming you are talking about the adjustment to the shifter linkage on Pages 3-24 and 3-25. That looks pretty straight forward. I will inspect the detent arm to see if it is aligned or damaged.

When I did shift it, which was just a couple of time to see if it would make some difference there was no real resistance but I will make sure to be careful and turn the prop.

Thanks again Mike for the response, gotta admit it is a really crappy feeling when you go out to your new boat with the family and it does NOTHING!!

I will definitely post once I have a chance to check it out, got USCG class tomorrow and then traveling for work next week.
 
Hmmm - one other thing - are you sure your emergency kill switch has not been activated. That is, is the yoke properly in place. You may want to disconnect it to see if the engine starts.
 
chawk_man said:
Hmmm - one other thing - are you sure your emergency kill switch has not been activated. That is, is the yoke properly in place. You may want to disconnect it to see if the engine starts.
Click to expand...

Thanks, doesn't the engine still crank but just not start if the kill switch is not "set". So I assume you mean straight wire around it correct?
 
Correct. It will crank, but not fire up.

One other thing - have you tested to starter solenoid? Jumper 12V directly from the battery to the starter solenoid positive terminal. Every time you make contact you should hear the solenoid click closed. If that doesn't happen, you probably have a dead solenoid.
 
chawk_man said:
Correct. It will crank, but not fire up.

One other thing - have you tested to starter solenoid? Jumper 12V directly from the battery to the starter solenoid positive terminal. Every time you make contact you should hear the solenoid click closed. If that doesn't happen, you probably have a dead solenoid.
Click to expand...

Got it on the list to check.

Yeah, it does ZERO right now no click no nothing.


Headed to the boat but only have about an hour before I head to class. I will update as soon as I can.

THANKS Guys!!!!!
 
Hey Guys,
I am at the boat now. Okay I put a screw driver in where the neutral switch and the detent plate is and it cranks. I did not start it just hit it for a second to see if it was getting power. My question now is the boat is in the water and I want to get it out to work on. If I make sure it is in neutral can I start it and get it off the water and really the question is how do I ensure it is in neutral?? I don't want to move the shift to much if I don't have to.

Off to USCG class will check in later.

Thanks!
 
Raise the motor up until the prop is at least somewhat out of the water. Take a boat pole and see if the prop will turn easily both ways. If it does it is in neutral.

If it is not, you will just have to move the shifter one way some and try it again. Then the other way, if it still does not turn. You should also be able to watch the neutral safety switch being depressed the most when it is in neutral (unless you have shift linkage issues on the motor).

Mike
 
Thanks Mike,

It is raining like hell today and I am traveling until Friday. Looks like a weekend project, I will keep on posted.
 
Okay Guys time for an update and next steps.

I figured out it was in neutral by spinning the prop, put a screwdriver between the detent arm and the neutral switch and it kicked right over. I ran it for about thirty minutes and it shifted into forward and reverse with no issues ( I don't know what "normal" should feel like) and got it on the trailer and home.

Just looked at it a little getting ready for tomorrow to tear it down and see what is what. I noticed one thing right off the bat, both the throttle cable and shifter cable locking nut were basically backed all the way out and not doing anything, obviously not good but do you think that is could be the problem. Would it be best to tear it down make sure the are no broken or bent parts get it back together and adjust everything according to the book??

Thanks.
 
The locking nuts might allow it to go out of alignment, but loose nuts are not "the problem".

I am not sure what you are going to tear down....

I would first disconnect the throttle and shift cables at the engine and see if you can see if the neutral safety switch is being depressed. It should be depressed if in neutral and with the cables removed. You should be able to crank it without the cables attached.

Mike
 
Hey Mike,

Sorry I should have been more clear about tearing it down, I just meant take it apart so I could see what the deal was.

I think I know what the problem is, I am obviously fixing someones half ass repair job. This looks like it has been an issue before, I am not sure why but they welded the click arm and throttle plate.

They are part number 4 and 8 http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF150A6 LA/SHIFT SHAFT/parts.html

Here is pictures of the two parts and the spring.




Everything else looked okay, any idea why they would do that. Also even without the shift linkage attached it is still pretty hard to move the remote into forward any idea why?

Thanks.
 
Not sure what happened, I posted last night with some pics but it didn't come up here for some reason. Let me try it with some links to the pics and see if that works.

Anyway, I'm sorry for the odd wording but I got it apart last night and I think I figured out what is wrong. I am fixing someones half asses fix to this problem from before.

For some reason they welded the click arm and throttle plate, part #'s 4 and 8 in this drawing http://www.boats.net/parts/search/Honda/Outboard Engine/2006/BF150A6 LA/SHIFT SHAFT/parts.html.

Any idea why they would do this beside just to lazy to order the parts to fix it the correct way??

Here are some pics...

The throttle plate
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii311/goridemtb/DSC_0681_zps046c3584.jpg

The Click Arm.
http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii311/goridemtb/DSC_0680_zpsf7d1ddaa.jpg

I am going to order both of these and the spring that goes with them.

One more question, even without the linkage attached the remote is still pretty hard to move into forward, any ideas on how to fix this?? I saw a friction screw on it, could I adjust that to make it easier?? Or should I look at something else.

As always Thanks!!!!
 
Not seeing your shifter, I can not tell you about the friction control. Most Honda controls do have them.

It might be the problem, but most likely, you have a throttle or a shift cable kinked or going bad. The only way to tell is to disconnect both of them at the shifter and see if that makes any change in the shifter movement.
If shifter is ok, check the cables. You should be able to move the cables with just your finger tips and very little force as long as they are not connected to anything.

If it is one of the cables, change them both, you will be happy that you did.

Mike


Forgot to answer your first question .....I have no idea.
 
Okay, now we are getting some where. The shift cable is totally FUBAR I can't get it to move at all. I am sure that was putting A LOT of pressure on the rest of the linkage.

The shifter itself seems "okay" but their is a seal that goes between the arm and the body of the shifter that is hanging off. I might disassemble it and see if it shows signs of wear and tear and go from there.
 
I don't know of a seal that you are referring to. It might be insulation off of the tilt switch wiring.

Is it a Honda Shifter?

Mike
 
Once again Mike you are correct. I looked at it again and it is the wire for the tilt switch. It is a little hard to tell if the shifter is 100% okay holding it together on the bench but I think it is good.

I am just starting the research on the cables. I would like to order all of the parts together just a quick search comes up with Teleflex cable any other recommendations?
 
Good.

Here a reference page for the cables that I recommend. Make sure you get the correct length.

Teleflex cables are good, but the sheathing on, even the best of their cables, tends to split at the end and the cables start to rust. Honda has recently changed to Glendinning Pro-x carbles. They are smooth as butter and can be routed through a tight radius. Here is a page that lists the part numbers for the various lengths...http://marine.honda.com/outboards/accessories/control-cables

I have had no trouble with these at all.

Mike
 
I hate to do this Mike but is the correct length what is currently on there?? Just because that is what they used doesn't necessarily mean that is right. Is their some kind of way to know, or just go with what they did?

When I took the cables apart and took them out of the rubber grommet on the engine side I could see a greenish deposit like water was getting in there.
 
The existing cable length is a good place to start. Should it have been longer or shorter to allow for turning and tilting without kinking the cables? There is no perfect way to measure. A lot depends on the transom area of your boat and it you have room for a loop or if the cable is routed straight through to the the engine.

Page 7 of this link will tell you the standard way to measure for control cable length.http://teleflex.ru/upload/files/catalog/pdu/Tech Reference.pdf

Ideally, you can make a 4 ' loop in front of the motor if the cable is coming from the starboard side of the boat.

Mike
 
Got the old cables out, they were pretty rough, I ordered longer cables so I can put a loop in it like the link you posted.

All other parts are ordered so basically just waiting...I will update once I get it back together.
 
AAAARRRGGG, the click plate is on NATIONAL back order from Honda, I called a dozen Honda dealerships between here and the coast and no one has it in stock.

I got a date of May 6th from my order on Boat.net but I called today and she was honest and said that that date might not be good either.

I am sure I got make the plate work but damn I hate to do that. I will get the rest of the parts in and see what I have from there.
 
If I were in your position, I would see if a good machine shop might be able to restore the parts you have until you can find replacements.
 
chawk_man said:
If I were in your position, I would see if a good machine shop might be able to restore the parts you have until you can find replacements.
Click to expand...

Thanks,

If you look at this pic http://i267.photobucket.com/albums/ii311/goridemtb/DSC_0680_zpsf7d1ddaa.jpg that is what someone did already. The shifter cable was so bad that I am sure it was putting a lot of stress on the rest of the parts. To be honest it doesn't look cracked or deformed so I was going to get the rest of the parts in and see if they looked okay. I can actually bend it slightly to engage the switch if I need to if everything else looks right. I don't like to do that if I don't have to.
 
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