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1995 7.4L Merc Restart after 13 years

H

hiljak

New member
So...I am new hew here. Not real sure of the protocol. But I am going to buy a boat that has been setting for 13 years.

The boat was stored inside a dry barn and has less than 15 hours on it. It has the Bravo 3 outdrive. The motor is carbureted. The boat was Seafoamed prior to setting and the gas tank was drained. The batteries were replace 2 yea ago and the motor was "bumped over". There was no attempt to start the motor nor turn it over completely, but only bumped to see I it would want to start. All hoses and belts will likely be changed but they lo to be in decent condition.

What is the best way initiate an attempt to actually restart his motor?

I have heard that a few squirts of transmission fluid in each cylinder isn't a bad idea.
 
First thing is it will need a new impellor in the raw water pump as this will have age hardened, check all other rubber componenets, belts, hoses, exhaust muffs. Change the oil, take out the plugs and squirt some lube in the cylinders and try to turn it over by hand first to check its not seized, then crank it until you have oil pressure showing on the dial. Refit plugs and try to start up, the carb float may be stuck, so could either get no fuel or flood, just be aware.If it starts monitor oil pressure and engine temp, also check temp on manifolds and risers as these may be full of rust preventing circulation. It may clatter a bit after starting until the lifters pump up. Good Luck.
 
I would think it needs a complete bellows replacement due to dry rot. If it were mine I would take the carb top off and have a look...if there is dried fuel vanish granules (looks like sand) in the bowl give the carb a good 48 hr. soak and a rebuild. The mechanical fuel pump will be full of the same crud that will be pumped into the clean carb...buy a kit for the pump or replace it. Pull the thermostat and inspect it...replace it if questionable. Check the OD oil after a few runs for water intrusion from dried seals.
 
Chris and MikDee,

Will you please elaborate?

I understand that setting unused is hard on the boats and their components. But I also know that this particular rig is virtually unused and untouched. It was stored inside (in Texas) so there aren't any real harsh temperature swings. There isn't even a nic in either of the props, the outdrive skag has never it anything besides water. The boat was drained of fuel and fogged before it was set in the pole barn.

Besides the obvious carb cleaning, possible rings sticking and possible fuel pump being gummed up....why would you "buy a different boat"?

The way I am evaluating it, it seems low risk. I can sell the components of this rig for what I will have in the boat.
 
Thanks to everyone for the feedback. Can anyone tell me why my keyboard doesn't want to work on this site? It repetedly isspels wordsthat type corecty...and Ihavent had a singedrnsincea a week aggo tay...
 
I would go w/it if I got it cheap. Just give it a thorough inspection especially the bellows and replace the impeller. Check everything that has been previously stated. Pull the OD and lube the shaft end and U-joints...ck engine alignment.
 
What does less then $4000 mean?

Bellows, bearing, shift cable, Water pump, Carb rebuild, fuel tank clean, Fuel pump, Mercathode, possible manifolds and riser, shift cables, steering cable, batteries.

The hoses are another question. I guess if the engine fires up and has oil pressure and does not make funny noises after you run it full throttle for a few minutes and you dump $5K into a $4K purchase on a boat that is worth $12k in great condition, you will be $3K ahead of the game if you get it in running condition this year, with out any additional expense.



Or, you could just pay a little more than $4K now and go boating. Maybe $8k-$9K will get you into a nice boat, turn key.
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
What does less then $4000 mean?

Bellows, bearing, shift cable, Water pump, Carb rebuild, fuel tank clean, Fuel pump, Mercathode, possible manifolds and riser, shift cables, steering cable, batteries.

The hoses are another question. I guess if the engine fires up and has oil pressure and does not make funny noises after you run it full throttle for a few minutes and you dump $5K into a $4K purchase on a boat that is worth $12k in great condition, you will be $3K ahead of the game if you get it in running condition this year, with out any additional expense.



Or, you could just pay a little more than $4K now and go boating. Maybe $8k-$9K will get you into a nice boat, turn key.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your feedback. I truly appreciate your perspective. You've brought up some good points. I intend to make a decision on this boat by this weekend.
 
This is the type of vessel that should be purchased by a Marine Mechanic.

Things to look for when purchasing a vessel. Newer is always better. Something used on a regular basis is always better. Something Main Stream is always better. Do not purchase anything with a Merc 3.7 ltr, OMC Anything or Volvo Penta AQ series.

I hope this helps you find the right boat.

And ALWAYS get a survey from a NAMS or SAMS surveyor. Your insurance company will want that.
 
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