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07 short

I have an 07 sea ray with a 5.0 merc in it. For some reason the fuel pump wont shut off. I disconnected the key switch completely, no luck. Disconnected the alt with no luck. So I kept pulling plugs until Ive found 2 things. One is a water sensor going into the intake on the starboard front. If I unplug it the pump shuts off. Also inline with that plug is another connector with a red thing plugged into it if I unplug it the pump quit also. What are the functions of these and can that cause the pump to run.? I also took the relay out but that wont do it.
 
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Thanks Chris and everyone for your help. Yea I had traced the problem to this point but I have one more question. Will the water sensor in the starboard front of intake cause the diode to go bad? Or what causes this to happen? Wear? Could the fuel enrichment module on the carb be shorted and cause this? What is the procedure for testing this module? I just don't want to eat parts.
 
Quick questions.

Did you have a problem shutting the engine down?

Have you ever accidentally hooked the battery up backwards?

It's a thermal switch not a sensor. It supplies power to the TKS module when the engine is hot to help with starting.
 
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Yup the engine wouldn't shut off so I pulled coil wire, but noticed the fuel pump didn't quit. This all started while I was trying to figure out an overload of fuel at idle and a popping under load. Got to looking at the fuel enrichment module and found a fuse blown in a connector on the manifold which is inline with all these components. Replaced the fuse and pump wouldn't quit so I started looking for the current supply and noticed that someone had ran a wire from the battery to the fuse block under the dash. I believe this was causing a back flow of current thus blowing fuses.
 
TKS)(*&^%$

Hello Chris, I have one more question for you. I replaced the TKS diode but noticed with key off the TKS is getting warm to the touch. Any suggestions?
 
Thermal switch? The one in the starboard front of intake? Yea the boat ran for about 2 min and died. When I tried to restart it was dead. Checked fuses under dash and found #2 ignition fuse blown so I replaced it and the fuel pump kicked in again. Wont shut off so I pulled the TKS switch and it shut down so now I have 2 bad switches and a bad draw. But where? Im startin to think fuel pump.
 
Thanks I have a dvm but it shows me nothing. I replaced the wear items already. Cant get it to mimic the problem unless it is running and then it blows the diode switch.
 
The diode is basically a gate...it allows +/- current flows in specific directions. Over voltage/current will cause it to fail. Have you tested the alternator voltage output? If the regulator failed or a diode shorted either one could cause problems by allowing high DC voltage and AC voltage respectively into the 12 VDC electrical system. A battery regularly needing water added to the cells is a sign of too much DC voltage.
 
@Mechanic Branden, Sorry for the delay, I am up in Quebec and this is the first reliable internet access I have had.I will be back in Jersey this weekend.

If you have amplified voltage anywhere on the engine, you may have a bad connection between the alternator and the starter. An alternator on a running engine not attached to a battery will make 40+ volts.
 
My first thought would be if there were to be a problem on the alternator ignition side (purple wire), you should in theory see your volt gauge up over 14.5 volts. I know you said you disconnected the oil PSI switch but for how long? The engine would run for a bit at idle even with no fuel pump since the remaining fuel needs to be emptied inside the carb. As one retest, you may as well pull the oil PSI switch connector while watching the power at the fuel pump to see if it goes off with engine running of course.

As you will see in the wiring diagram linked below, the purple wires first point of contact from the alternator is the oil PSI switch then it turns into the purple/yellow wire then onto all the troubled components of the white wire. But it cold also be #14 (R starter solenoid).

The TKS service manual is small enough to read most of it electrical wise and just helpful enough to help guide you through this as long as you have a clear opened mind of how the system works of what to check. I think you do.:)
http://boatinfo.no/lib/mercruiser/manuals/mercruiser41.html#/28

If the above is not the case, then as a starting point, the amplified voltage may be coming/starting from the alternator #22/23 going into the 20 amp fuse and working it's way to the diode.

Since you can pull the diode, TKS module and temp switch and turn the engine off, try pulling (#20) 20 amp fuse to see if engine and/or fuel pump turns off, then disconnect the red/purple wire connector on the alternator. Also check voltage everywhere you can/disconnected.

The orange wire off the back of the alternator goes down to the starter. Is that where you read the alternator 14.5v?

Be 100% sure all wires are clean and tight starting at the battery heading to the starter and up to the engine. Also check all wires under the dash and ignition key. You also need to know what voltage you have at the back of the ignition key (all three or four wires?).

Don't use wing nuts for the battery cables either.
 
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