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1998 Sea Ray 180 Help New to the forum

C

Clearwater

New member
Hello im the new guy
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So i have recently acquired a free boat a 1998 Sea Ray 180 that sat bored for 3 years, so far I found a owners manual herehttp://www.searay.com/boat_graphics/...4DEJAJVF2A.pdf changed the starter, new battery and started her up with success, and now im trying to find a parts diagram for the 3.0 engine,transom and drive. i believe i have an alpha1 2 generation .. i would also like to know where you guys do your shopping best place to buy parts etc since i will be needing a few parts that i cant name at the moment..
Also besides the obvious engine oil,filter change what other oils should i change what else should i check for.. I'm kinda looking for a checklist from you seasoned boaters since im a newbie and don't want to overlook something stupid that will cost me later.... BTW i hope im in the right forum Thanks
 
A seawater pump impeller that has been dormant for three years, must be replaced.
I'd not even question this...... just replace it!

If the drive has been stored in the full up position, I would treat the driveshaft bellows in the same manner.
I'd not even question it ...... just replace it!



.
 
Thanks guys for pointing me in the right direction, i have learned allot since my post. I priced everything up and came to the conclusion that i need to do a compression test before i move forward, i will move forward regardless but it will take longer and fun in the sun is right around the corner... Btw do you guys know compression specs on the 3.0 ???
 
Ayuh,.... Over 100 psi is runnable, under that, it needs a rebuild,...

All cylinders should be within 15% of each other,...
 
Some will suggest that the highest cylinder pressure reading should be no more than 10% differential between that of the lowest cylinder pressure reading.

IOW, if your highest reading is 140 psi, your lowest reading should be no more than approximately 14 psi less.

The pressure reading will be accumulative at first, which means that you must cycle each cylinder through at least three compression cycles.

Disable your ignition system so that no spark event can occur. This means disabling the power source to the ignition, not necessarily pulling the high tension lead!

Open your throttles plates up well above idle position.


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Ok here are the results

my friends tester

dry
C1=120
C2=120
C3=115
C4=90

Then i went out and bought a tester from harbor freight because his tester was dropping psi really fast and was erratic at times

dry /wet
C1=100/ 115
C2=95 /110
C3=90 /130
C4=80 /115

than i did a little experiment and poured allot more oil than recommended and
all cylinders came around 180 psi give or take a couple

what does this mean rebuild? or am i still good for this season..

Just let me put this into account that this boat needs new carpets, new upholstery,
trailer lights, wheel bearing, thermostat housing, bellow kit,impeller pump, front engine mount rebuild, possibly that bearing that i cant remember the name of right now etc etc and other things that i haven't discovered yet...
i want to do this right but i also want to be on the water but than again getting stuck out there and having to worry, is today THE day doesn't sound to relaxing IMO

What would you guys do in my position ? and remember i did get it free and will do most of the work by myself minus engine rebuild my neighbor would do that...
 
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Ayuh,.... Add "Motor Rebuild" to yer list,...

Btw,.... There's an ole sayin' 'round Boaters, that goes,...
"The Most expensive boat you can ever own, is one that's Free"....
 
I hear that.. The worst part about getting a free boat, IS well getting a free boat...

Oh well a little weekend project just turned into a big one ... Considering what these boats are still fetching or "what people are asking" hopefully i'll still be in good shape after im done,maybe.But that's besides the point . This is the exact same one as mine here locally on CL http://tampa.craigslist.org/pnl/bod/4340757950.html Time to talk to my neighbor for a neighborly estimate.... and dig deeper
 
I would soak each cylinder with Marvel Mystery oil over a couple days, Say a cup of oil in each cylinder.

After a few days crank the motor over a few times to get the oil out and then retest,

You may have a stuck ring.

If you can get all the cylinders up over 100 consistently I would say run the bitch!
Get a year or two out of it.

It may not be the most powerful but it will run......
 
If it needs carpet check the floor for rot...and the stringers...and the transom. If you find rot in the stringers ad transom give the boat away. Floor replacement is not a big deal compared to stringers and transom.
 
Clearwater, your dry numbers indicate that the spread between cylinder pressures is excessive!
Adding oil to the cylinders will intrinsically increase cylinder pressures simply by way of the oil volume.
(the Oil Volume temporarily decreases combustion chamber volume, therefore giving the gases less area to be compressed into)

I agree with kghost.
Add a significant amount of oil to each cylinder, and let it sit.
With an inline vertical cylinder wall engine, the oil will rest equally around the piston ring landing perimeter. (Not quite so with V engines)
Run it and see how it performs.

If concerned, take another cylinder pressure reading afterwards.

You may also want to perform a cylinder "leak-down" test.


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I replaced the floor, stringers, foam and rebuilt the transom in my boat. It was going to be just the floor but the more I dug, the softer it got! And when I say I rebuilt, I'm talking cutting out the old fiberglass, new stringers , re Fiberglass, new two part foam, new floor, more fiberglass. It was a mess, did it all myself, I could easily sell it for the money I have in it, or more, but it runs good and I have no payments!
Would I do it again, probably not
 
ok thank guys, will do the oil and retest. As far as the fiberglass thing i'm definitely not going there... I did the foot weight soft spot test everything seemed solid but what are other "Simple" ways of checking? Thanks
 
Clearwater said:
ok thank guys, will do the oil and retest. As far as the fiberglass thing i'm definitely not going there... I did the foot weight soft spot test everything seemed solid but what are other "Simple" ways of checking? Thanks
Click to expand...

Ayuh,..... Take an Icepick, 'n poke 'round anything wood in the blige, 'n at the transom,....

If it ain't hard, it's Rotten,....
 
'n poke 'round anything wood in the blige, 'n at the transom
Click to expand...
Poking around from the inside pay particular attention around the edge and bottom of the bell hsg. area and the bilge drain hole. Also, probe the engine mounts bases.
 
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