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Quick question!

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duderino509

New member
I got a 4.3L Mercruiser. Pulled the heads and had them resurfaced. Now I'm putting them back on. Does anybody know if it matters what side they go on? They look the same to me. Same casting numbers and holes all in the same spot.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks!
 
If this engine is raw water cooled, be sure to use a Marine head gasket set.

Suggestion:
You will be setting your cam follower plunger depth during this work.
Do this prior to installing the intake manifold while the cam followers are still visible.

Use the 6 stop procedure..... and don't allow anyone to talk you out of doing that.

.
 
How does one perform this 6 stop procedure? I have not installed the intake yet. I read my service manual and it says to set #1 at TDC and adjust intake on 1/2/3 and exhaust on 1/5/6. Then put #4 at TDC and adjust intake on 4/5/6 and exhaust on 2/3/4. I started doing that and the nut on #2 intake still had about two threads showing on the nut. I don't think that is right. So I would really like to figure this out and make sure I'm doing it right. So for the 6 stop procedure I think you mean...

-Place #1 Cyl at TDC, adjust I/E valves (turn until no lash, then 1 full turn)
-Place #2 Cyl at TDC and repeat
-Repeat for 3 thru 6....

Could you please give me some guidance on this? It would really be helpful.

Oh, and it has an enclosed cooling system.

This manual has a few different procedures and I am a little uncertain of which one to follow.

Thanks for your help.
 
You can do one cylinder at a time, takes a few minutes more.

In the correct rotation after the intake valve closes and you are in the compression stroke, you will see that neither lifter is moving, adjust the rocker arms at this point, then move on to the next cylinder and repeat. If you do it this way there will be no confusion.
 
Your service manual is describing a 2 stop procedure.
Chris and I are in agreement....... use the 6 stop procedure, and you will not only have less confusion, it will be more accurate for you.

See if this helps you:

This pertains to a six cylinder engine only........ (whether 90°
V or in-line)

In order to complete six cylinder cycles, the crankshaft will have rotated 720°.
720° divided by six cylinders equals 120° crankshaft rotation per cylinder cycle.

Note: Find a way to divide your crankshaft pulley into 120° segments (from TDC) and mark it clearly.

With #1 cylinder at TDC C/C (C/C = compression stroke), you will set both #1 cylinder intake and exhaust cam follower plunger depths.

Your cylinder firing order is 1-6-5-4-3-2.

This means that a 120° crankshaft rotation brings #6 cylinder up to TDC C/C.

Now adjust these two cam follower plunger depths.

Rotate the crankshaft an additional 120°, and #5 will now be ready.

Repeat the procedure until you're finished.

You will have just completed the 4.3 L 6 stop procedure.



Now bring it back to #1 TDC C/C, install your intake manifold, and install and set up your ignition base advance timing.


With exception to 2 additional stops, and with the 120° becoming only 90°....... this is identical to the V8 8 stop procedure.



.
 
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Ok here is another way to do it...........



install all lifters, pushrods and rocker arms.

rotate the motor over until each lifter is as low as it will go (SIMPLE)

adjust the rocker arm on ALL the lifters that are in this position until there is just a very small amount of resistance while spinning the push rod then tighten the rocker nut 1/2 turn more. (simple)

Repeat until every lifter has been at it lowest position is under preload of 1/2 turn. (simple)

rotate motor so number 1 cylinder on the compression stroke and timing marks line up as close to possible for Top Dead Center.

Install intake carb and distributor. LEAVE valve covers not attached but in place for now.

When ready put valve covers in place but not secured and fire it up, set base timing, after that let it warm up for about a minute.

Once warmed up start with number 1 cyclinder and loosen rocker nut until clacking is just starting to be heard, tighten back done 1/4 turn and wait 10 seconds or so for lifter to pump back up, 1/4 turn more and repeat until 1/2 to 3/4 turns tightening the nut has been accomplished for each rocker arm.


It will be a oily mess but it is a SIMPLE way of getting it done......(simple)

This method is a sure way to get it correct and is included in the factory service manual as one method of adjusting the lifter preload........(SIMPLE)

I hope this SIMPLE description allows you to better understand what to do.

NO 2 STEP, 4 STEP, 6 STEP COUNTRY WESTERN DANCING MOVES NEEDED
 
I hope this SIMPLE description allows you to better understand what to do.
Click to expand...

What on earth are you trying to achieve here?

Are you discounting the value or accuracy of the 6 stop procedure for this engine?
Are you suggesting that the 6 stop procedure (as I have fully described it) is above average Joe's comprehension level?
Are you not understanding that if this procedure is followed accurately, the likelihood and need for the dynamic procedure is virtually "nill"?


Kghost....... I'm starting to believe that you have a bone to pick with me!

If you do not like my rather lengthy explanations, or my use of technical language, just simply ignore it!
If you find errors or faults with my explanations and use of technical language, please point them out..... but do so with some supporting data!
I would be more than happy to make the necessary corrections!

Otherwise, what say we let the OP make his own determination???
Fair nuff?

.
 
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I've read a few posts on here where you guys are debating. Pretty funny. Anyways, I am pretty sure these are torqued to 20 ft lbs. Gonna go with that. And hopefully one of you will respond so that the other one will have the opportunity to type up some genius response.

Thanks for your time.
 
duderino509 said:
I've read a few posts on here where you guys are debating. Pretty funny. Anyways, I am pretty sure these are torqued to 20 ft lbs. Gonna go with that. And hopefully one of you will respond so that the other one will have the opportunity to type up some genius response.

Thanks for your time.
Click to expand...

20 ft lbs would be incorrect on a rocker arm adjustment on a 4.3ltr V6. You have to set the load on the Lifter. That would be one full turn of the lock nut after zero lash is reached.
 
Does this apply to every 4.3L? I've been searching different forums and finding all kinds of different stories. Couple of things I found were.... If you have a balanced shaft, torque em. If its a certain year or later, torque em. This and that... Blah blah blah... I had the heads off and loosened up the nuts on the rockers and they were pretty tight. I'm just uncertain on how to tell if I have a balanced shaft or not, what year of motor it is, and so on. Would really like to figure it out. Planned on putting it all back together tomorrow but aint goin any further til I figure this out.

Thanks again!
 
duderino509 said:
Does this apply to every 4.3L? I've been searching different forums and finding all kinds of different stories. Couple of things I found were.... If you have a balanced shaft, torque em. If its a certain year or later, torque em. This and that... Blah blah blah... I had the heads off and loosened up the nuts on the rockers and they were pretty tight. I'm just uncertain on how to tell if I have a balanced shaft or not, what year of motor it is, and so on. Would really like to figure it out. Planned on putting it all back together tomorrow but aint goin any further til I figure this out.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

The balance shaft would be visible right in the lifter valley. You could put a hook around it and lift the block out of the boat by the balance shaft.
 
Take a look at the 4.3L cylinder head image hosted at this site..... second image down.
http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/61xqd-chevrolet-10-pick-up-identify-exhuast.html

Note the description of the two styles of rocker arm studs.

I am using this to show you the individual rocker arms and ball swivels, on individual pressed in studs, with an individual resistance nut.
Again, the objective with this adjustment is to set the cam follower's plunger depth.
If you were to simply torque this adjustment nut, the plunger depth will be incorrect and the result will be engine damage! Plain and simple!


BTW, I am NOT recommending this 2 stop procedure that he describes.
That's the lazy man's way, and it is not as accurate!
(see post #6 again)


Note: If your engine utilizes screw-in type rocker arm studs with positive stop shoulders, no valve lash adjustment is necessary or possible, because the geometry has been predetermined.

But even so, this fixed geometry is such as to to set the cam follower's plunger depth.


It's your engine....... do what you wish!





.
 
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This has been borrowed from a BOC thread.
I thought it was rather humorous, and also poignant!
:D

Hey, that's what this forum is for. Thinking out loud and having your dreams and ideas crushed before they become a nightmare.


 
Per V6 balance shaft Mercruiser manual....

He is correct, Input may be needed to clarify,,,,

I would think normal lifter pre load adjustments would be required BUT the manual states differently.

Is this a typo? Are they referring to the lifter retainer nuts in the lifter valley as shown as item B
 
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kghost said:
Per V6 balance shaft Mercruiser manual....

He is correct, Input may be needed to clarify,,,,

I would think normal lifter pre load adjustments would be required BUT the manual states differently.

Is this a typo? Are they referring to the lifter retainer nuts in the lifter valley as shown as item B
Click to expand...

Not a typo. If it has a roller cam With or with out a balance shaft, it has lifter retainers that get torqued.
 
Docksidemarineservices said:
Not a typo. If it has a roller cam With or with out a balance shaft, it has lifter retainers that get torqued.
Click to expand...
I understand that but the second pic I attached shows the retainer Item A being torqued to 12 ft lbs......and the first STATES 20 ftlbs for the ROCKER NUT.....

Is this a miss print / Typo?
 
kghost said:
I understand that but the second pic I attached shows the retainer Item A being torqued to 12 ft lbs......and the first STATES 20 ftlbs for the ROCKER NUT.....

Is this a miss print / Typo?
Click to expand...
It is all going to come down to the question that was not asked yet. What year is this engine? If it is a roller cam the retainer for the lifters gets 12lbs. If it's a true roller engine than it will also have roller rockers and they get torqued to 20lbs. See Picture Below. Roller Rockers and Straight attaching bolts. NON ADJUSTABLE, at least not with the attaching bolts.




head ass.JPG
 
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Found a number on the FWD STBD side of the block.

14099090

Not sure if that helps or not. Also took a couple pics but not sure how to upload them. Tried the little button here in the quick reply box but didn't work. Its JPEG. Maybe I gotta upload it to photobucket or something.
 
20140222_084128_zpsac5990fe.jpg
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You have stamped rockers and you are going to adjust them the way I described above. They do not get torqued down to 20 ft lbs. You also have the transition year engine. Vortec lower w/standard heads. I have a Like New 4BBL intake for that engine. It's for sale.
 
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K. Thats what I did. I turned the crank clockwise until the intake valve closed and there was no movement of either valve for that cylinder, then adjusted. And repeated for each cylinder.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 
duderino509 said:
K. Thats what I did. I turned the crank clockwise until the intake valve closed and there was no movement of either valve for that cylinder, then adjusted. And repeated for each cylinder.
Click to expand...

If you did the above beginning at #1 TDC on the C/S, and followed the firing order with a 120° separation, you have done the proper 6 stop procedure that I described in post #6 earlier!

If you were able to accomplish zero lash, and were able to adjust the rocker arm nut as per OEM specifications, your cam follower plunger depths should be set correctly.



.
 
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